If you’ve been looking at houseplant trends, you’ve likely seen the breathtaking white monstera. This rare and stunning variegated plant has taken the plant world by storm, and for good reason. Its dramatic leaves, splashed with pure white or cream, look almost painted. But what exactly is it, and how can you care for such a special plant? This guide gives you all the practical details you need.
Unlike the solid green Monstera deliciosa, a white variegated Monstera has sections on its leaves that lack chlorophyll. This creates those stunning white patterns. The care is similar to a regular Monstera, but with a few crucial tweaks. It needs more light to support its green parts, and you have to watch its growth closely. Let’s get started on how to keep yours healthy and beautiful.
White Monstera – Rare and Stunning Variegated
This heading isn’t just for show. It sums up exactly why this plant is so sought-after. The “white” refers to the variegation, “monstera” is the plant type, and “rare and stunning variegated” describes its unique appeal. The rarity comes from how the variegation occurs. It’s not stable in seed form. New plants must be grown from cuttings of a variegated mother plant, which slows production and increases cost.
What Causes the White Variegation?
The white color is due to a genetic mutation. In simple terms, some cells in the leaf cannot produce chlorophyll, the green pigment plants use to make food. These cells group together, creating white or cream-colored sections. There are two main types of variegation in monsteras:
- Chimeric Variegation: This is the random, patchy pattern seen in plants like the Monstera albo. The white and green are mixed in unpredictable blocks and splashes. It’s unstable, meaning a new leaf could be highly variegated, mostly green, or even half-moon (half white, half green).
- Sectoral Variegation: This is a larger, more defined section of white, sometimes covering entire half of a leaf or stem. It’s very striking but can be challenging for the plant to sustain.
It’s important to know that the white parts cannot photosynthesize. Only the green parts can make energy. So, a leaf with too much white is actually a drain on the plant’s resources. This is a key point for care and propagation.
Popular Types of White Variegated Monsteras
Not all white monsteras are the same. Here are the most common cultivars you’ll encounter:
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’: The classic. It has large, irregular patches of white on its leaves. The stems also show variegation, which is a good sign for future leaves.
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’: This cultivar has a creamier, more speckled variegation that resembles a starry sky. It’s generally more stable and slower-growing than the Albo, making it slightly easier to care for but often more expensive initially.
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Mint’ or ‘Aurea’: This type features a rarer, yellowish or minty-green variegation instead of pure white. It’s exceptionally rare and highly prized by collectors.
Where to Buy and What to Look For
Because of their rarity, you won’t find these at most local garden centers. You’ll need to look at specialized plant shops, online plant retailers, or community marketplaces. Always buy from a reputable seller with good reviews. When choosing a plant, either in person or from photos, inspect it carefully.
- Root Health: If possible, check the roots. They should be firm and white or light tan, not mushy or black.
- Leaf and Stem Variegation: Look for consistent stem variegation. A stem with white stripes is more likely to produce variegated leaves. Avoid plants with all-green stems.
- Pests: Check the undersides of leaves and stems for signs of pests like spider mites, thrips, or mealybugs.
- Overall Condition: Leaves should be firm, not floppy or yellowing excessively. Some lower leaf loss is normal during shipping, but the new growth should look healthy.
A Note on Price and Patience
These plants are an investment. Prices have come down but can still range from a hundred to over a thousand dollars for a mature, highly variegated specimen. Start with a smaller plant if your budget is limited. It’s rewarding to watch it grow. Be patient and do your research to avoid scams—if a price seems to good to be true, it usually is.
Essential Care Guide for Your White Monstera
Caring for a variegated monstera is like caring for a regular one, but with higher stakes. The lack of chlorophyll makes it more sensitive. Here’s your step-by-step breakdown.
1. Light: The Most Important Factor
Your white monstera needs bright, indirect light. The green parts have to work harder to feed the whole plant, so sufficient light is non-negotiable. A spot near an east or west-facing window is ideal. A south-facing window is good too, but you may need to diffuse the light with a sheer curtain to prevent sunburn on the delicate white sections.
Signs of too little light: The plant will stretch towards the light (become leggy), new leaves will be smaller, and the variegation may revert—meaning it will start producing more green leaves to survive.
Signs of too much light: The white parts may turn brown and crispy, or the green parts may look bleached or scorched.
2. Watering: Finding the Balance
Overwatering is the fastest way to lose your plant. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Here’s a simple method:
- Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil.
- If it feels dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes.
- Empty the saucer underneath after 15 minutes so the roots aren’t sitting in water.
- Wait until the top few inches are dry again before watering.
Watering frequency depends on light, temperature, and pot size. It might be once a week in summer and every two or three weeks in winter. Always let the soil guide you, not the calendar.
3. Soil and Potting
A well-draining, airy potting mix is essential. A standard houseplant soil is too dense. You can make your own mix with these components:
- 2 parts high-quality potting soil
- 1 part orchid bark (for aeration)
- 1 part perlite or pumice (for drainage)
- A handful of horticultural charcoal (optional, helps keep soil fresh)
Choose a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent because they allow the soil to dry out more evenly. Repot every 1-2 years in spring, sizing up only 1-2 inches in pot diameter at a time.
4. Humidity and Temperature
Monsteras are tropical plants. They thrive in humidity levels above 50%. Average home humidity (around 30-40%) is okay, but higher is better. You can increase humidity by:
- Using a humidifier (most effective).
- Placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
- Grouping it with other plants.
Keep temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C – 29°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.
5. Fertilizing for Healthy Growth
During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your monstera monthly with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. A 20-20-20 formula works well. Do not fertilize in fall and winter when growth slows. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots and damage the leaves, especially the sensitive white parts.
If you notice the white areas browning without signs of sunburn or underwatering, it could be a sign of mineral buildup. Flush the soil with plain water every few months to leach out excess salts.
Pruning and Managing Variegation
Pruning is a vital tool for managing your plant’s energy and variegation. If your plant puts out a leaf that is completely white, it’s beautiful but not sustainable. That leaf will eventually brown and die because it can’t produce energy. To encourage the plant to produce more balanced leaves, you can prune back to a node on the stem that shows good variegation (both green and white).
- Identify the stem with the all-white or all-green growth.
- Trace it back to a point where the stem has striping.
- Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut just above a node (the little bump where a leaf meets the stem).
- The new growth from that node should inherit the variegation pattern from the stem section it grew from.
Regularly removing any completely dead or damaged leaves also helps the plant focus its energy on healthy growth.
Propagation: How to Make More Plants
Propagating a white monstera is the primary way to create new plants and also a way to save a plant that’s reverting. The best method is stem cuttings in water or moss. Here’s how:
- Select a cutting with at least one node and one leaf. The stem should have visible variegation.
- Make a clean cut just below the node with sterilized scissors.
- Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaf is not. Or, place it in moist sphagnum moss.
- Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water weekly if using that method.
- Roots should begin to form in 2-6 weeks. Wait until they are a few inches long before potting in soil.
- Pot your new plant in a small container with your well-draining mix and care for it as usual.
Remember, the new plant will only be as variegated as the stem node it grew from. Choosing a highly variegated stem section is key.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with great care, issues can arise. Here’s a quick troubleshooting guide.
Yellowing Leaves
This is common but has several causes. Older leaves yellowing and dying off is natural. Widespread yellowing often means overwatering. Check the soil moisture. Yellowing on new growth could indicate a nutrient deficiency, like a lack of nitrogen.
Brown Crispy Edges or Patches on White Areas
This is almost always due to low humidity or sunburn. The white tissue is very fragile. Increase ambient humidity and ensure the plant is not in direct, harsh sunlight. Sometimes, slight browning on white sections is just natural and unavoidable as the leaf matures.
Leaves Not Splitting (Fenestrating)
If your plant is producing solid, heart-shaped leaves without splits or holes, it’s usually due to insufficient light. Move it to a brighter location. Juvenile monsteras also produce solid leaves before they begin to fenestrate, so check the plants age and light conditions.
Pests
Spider mites, thrips, and mealybugs can be a problem. Isolate any new plants for a few weeks. Regularly wipe leaves with a damp cloth to deter pests. If you see them, treat immediately with insecticidal soap or neem oil, applying thoroughly to the undersides of leaves.
The Reality of Reversion
Reversion is when your variegated plant starts producing all-green leaves. This happens because the plant is trying to survive—green leaves are more efficient. If you see an all-green stem and leaf emerging, you have a few choices:
- Prune it out: Cut the green stem back to the last variegated node. This is the most common action to encourage the plant to put energy into variegated growth.
- Let it grow: Some people allow one green stem to grow to strengthen the overall plant, as it will produce more energy. You can always prune it later.
Providing optimal light is the best prevention against reversion.
FAQ Section
Q: Is a white variegated Monstera harder to care for than a regular one?
A: Yes, it requires more attention, especially to light levels. The white parts are delicate and the plant is less efficient at photosynthesis, so its needs are more specific.
Q: Why is my variegated Monstera turning brown on the white parts?
A: Browning on white variegation is typically caused by low humidity, underwatering, or too much direct sun. The white cells lack chlorophyll and are more suseptible to environmental stress.
Q: Can I make my green Monstera turn variegated?
A: No, variegation is a genetic mutation. A green Monstera cannot spontaneously become variegated. You must obtain a cutting or plant that is already variegated.
Q: How fast does a white Monstera grow?
A: Growth is generally slower than a fully green Monstera. The Thai Constellation tends to be slower than the Albo variety. Growth speed depends on light, warmth, and care.
Q: Are white monsteras toxic to pets?
A: Yes, like all monsteras, they contain calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. It’s best to keep them out of reach of curious pets.
Q: Should I mist the leaves of my monstera?
A: Misting provides only a very temporary increase in humidity and can promote fungal leaf diseases if water sits on the leaves. Using a humidifier is a much more effective and safer method for increasing humidity around your plant.
Final Thoughts on Ownership
Owning a white monstera is a commitment, but an incredibly rewarding one. It’s a living piece of art that changes and grows with your care. Success comes down to a few key things: providing bright indirect light, watering correctly, and not being afraid to prune when needed. Accept that some browning on white leaves may occur—it’s part of owning a plant with such dramatic variegation.
Start with the best plant you can afford from a trusted source. Invest in good light, a proper soil mix, and a humidifier if your air is dry. Pay close attention to your plant’s signals; it will tell you what it needs. With patience and these guidelines, you can enjoy the rare beauty of a healthy, thriving white monstera for years to come. The joy of seeing a new, highly variegated leaf unfurl is worth the extra effort.