When To Plant Shallots

Knowing exactly when to plant shallots is the single most important factor for a successful, bountiful harvest. Get the timing right, and you’ll be rewarded with plump, flavorful bulbs that store for months. Get it wrong, and you might end up with disappointingly small shallots or bulbs that fail to form properly.

This guide cuts through the confusion. We’ll give you clear, region-specific planting windows and the simple signs to watch for in your own garden. By the end, you’ll have a confident plan for planting your shallots at the perfect moment.

Shallots have a long growing season, often needing 90 to 120 days from planting to harvest. The ideal planting time isn’t a fixed date but depends heavily on your local climate. The core principle is to plant them during cool weather, so they establish roots before summer’s heat prompts bulb formation.

Understanding Your Shallot Type: Sets vs. Seeds

First, identify what you’re planting. Most gardeners use “sets,” which are small, dormant bulbs. You can also grow from seed, which is less common and requires a longer season.

Shallot Sets: These are the easiest and fastest route. Plant them in early spring or fall, depending on your zone.
Shallot Seeds: These need a head start indoors 8-10 weeks before your last spring frost. They’re a good option for finding unique varieties.

Fall Planting for Mild Winter Climates

If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-7 (or even 8 with protection), fall planting is often recommended. The goal is to get the sets in the ground 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes solid.

Timing: Typically late October through November.
Goal: Roots establish in the warmish fall soil, but top growth is minimal. The shallots then go dormant over winter.
Benefit: They wake up very early in spring, getting a massive head start. This often leads to a larger, earlier harvest compared to spring-planted sets.
Protection: A thick layer of straw or shredded leaves (about 4-6 inches) applied after the ground chills is crucial to prevent frost heaving.

Spring Planting for Cold Winter Climates

For gardeners in Zones 4 and colder, where winters are severe, spring planting is the safer, more reliable choice. You plant as soon as the garden soil is workable.

Timing: 2-4 weeks before your last expected spring frost date. This is often when the soil temperature reaches at least 45°F (7°C).
Goal: The sets experience a long period of cool, moist growth before summer heat arrives.
Signs in Your Garden: When you can squeeze a handful of soil and it crumbles apart instead of forming a wet ball, it’s time. Some folks use the blooming of crocuses or daffodils as a natural cue.

Regional Planting Calendar

Use this as a starting point and always adjust for your specific microclimate.

Pacific Northwest & Coastal California (Zones 7-9): Perfect for fall planting. Plant sets in October/November for a summer harvest.
Northeast & Midwest (Zones 4-6): Primarily spring planting. Get sets in the ground in April or early May. Zone 6 gardeners can often succeed with a well-mulched fall planting.
South (Zones 8-9): Fall planting is best. Plant in November or December. The mild winter allows for root growth, leading to a spring harvest before the extreme summer heat.
Mountain West (Zones 4-6): Stick to spring planting after the last frost. The short growing season makes timing critical.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Once you’ve nailed the timing, follow these steps for success.

Prepare the Soil: Choose a sunny spot with loose, well-draining soil. Shallots hate soggy feet. Work in some compost or aged manure a few weeks before planting to improve fertility and drainage.
Select and Prepare Sets: Choose firm, disease-free sets. There’s no need to peel them. You can soak them in a diluted compost tea solution for 15 minutes before planting to encourage rooting, but it’s not essential.
Plant Correctly: Space sets 6-8 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart. Plant them pointy-end up, so the tip is just barely peeking above the soil surface. If you bury them to deep, bulb formation can be hindered.
Water and Mulch: Water them in well after planting. Apply a light layer of mulch (like straw or grass clippings) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Optimizing Your Harvest Timing

Planting at the right time sets the stage, but a few extra tips will ensure your harvest is perfectly timed.

Soil and Fertilizer Needs

Shallots prefer a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0. A balanced fertilizer at planting is good, but go easy on nitrogen. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of bulb development. A side dressing of a phosphorus-rich fertilizer when the bulbs begin to swell can be beneficial.

Watering and Weed Control

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during bulb formation in early summer. Weeds compete fiercely with shallow-rooted shallots, so keep the bed clean. A light mulch really helps with both moisture retention and weed suppression.

Knowing When to Harvest

Your harvest window is determined by your planting date. Here’s how to know they’re ready:

The tops (leaves) will start to turn yellow and fall over. This is the main signal.
Gently brush away soil from the top of a bulb to check its size. It should look nicely formed.
For the best storage, harvest when about half to two-thirds of the tops have browned and fallen over.

Troubleshooting Common Timing Problems

If your shallots aren’t performing, the issue often traces back to planting time or conditions.

Small Bulbs: Usually caused by planting too late in spring, overcrowding, or poor soil fertility. It can also happen if you planted too deep.
No Bulb Formation: This can occur if shallots are planted in hot weather or if they experience a severe drought during early growth stages.
Bolting (Sending Up a Flower Stalk): Caused by a period of cold weather after growth has started. While fall-planted shallots are somewhat prone to this, selecting the right variety for your region helps. If a bolt appears, snip it off immediately to direct energy back to the bulb.

FAQ: Your Shallot Planting Questions Answered

Can I plant shallots from the grocery store?

You can try, but it’s not recommended. Grocery store shallots are often treated with sprout inhibitors and may carry diseases not present in your area. It’s safer and more reliable to buy certified disease-free sets from a garden center or seed catalog.

What is the difference between planting onions and shallots?

The timing and process are very similar! Both prefer cool starts. The main difference is that each single shallot set will typically multiply, forming a cluster of 4-12 new bulbs around the original. Onions usually form just one bulb per set or seed.

How long do shallots take to grow after planting?

From sets, expect 90-120 days. From seed, add another 4-6 weeks. Fall-planted shallots use the winter to establish roots, so their “days to maturity” clock starts ticking very early in spring, leading to a harvest in mid-to-late summer.

Can I plant shallots in containers?

Absolutely. Choose a pot at least 10-12 inches deep with excellent drainage. Use a quality potting mix and maintain consistent watering, as containers dry out faster. The planting spacing and depth remain the same.

What should I plant after harvesting my shallots?

Shallots are usually harvested in mid-to-late summer. This frees up space for a fall crop. Good follow-up plants include fast-growing greens (lettuce, spinach, kale), bush beans, or even a cover crop to protect and nourish the soil over winter.

By syncing your planting schedule with the natural rhythms of your climate, you give your shallots the best possible foundation. Remember, the extra patience required for getting them in the ground at the right moment pays off tenfold when you pull up those clusters of beautiful, firm bulbs. Keep notes on your planting dates and results each year—this will help you fine-tune the perfect schedule for your own unique garden.