If you’re planning your garden in East Texas, knowing when to plant potatoes is your first step to a great harvest. Getting the timing right is the most important factor for success, and it all depends on our unique regional climate.
This guide will walk you through the optimal windows for planting, the best varieties for our area, and how to handle our sometimes unpredictable spring weather. Let’s get your spuds in the ground at the perfect time.
When To Plant Potatoes In East Texas
For most of East Texas, the prime planting window for potatoes is from late January through mid-February. You can often plant as late as early March, but earlier is generally better.
The goal is to get them in the ground so they can grow during the cool spring months and mature before the intense summer heat arrives. A good rule of thumb is to plant your potatoes about 2-4 weeks before your last average spring frost date.
Understanding Your East Texas Frost Dates
East Texas spans USDA Hardiness Zones 8a to 9a, meaning our last frost dates vary. Here’s a quick breakdown for major areas:
- Tyler/Longview Area (Zone 8a): Last frost around March 15-25. Plant from mid-February to early March.
- Lufkin/Nacogdoches Area (Zone 8b): Last frost around March 10-20. Plant from late January to late February.
- Beaumont/Houston Area (Zone 9a): Last frost around February 5-20. Plant from early January to early February.
Always check a local almanac for the most accurate dates for your specific town. Soil temperature is a more reliable indicator than the calendar alone.
The Soil Temperature Signal
Potatoes need cool soil to get started. The magic number is 45°F (7°C). Once your soil reaches this temperature at a depth of 4 inches, it’s time to plant.
You can use a simple soil thermometer to check. If you don’t have one, a traditional sign is when the soil is dry enough to work without clumping. If it sticks to your shovel, it’s still to wet.
What About a Fall Potato Crop?
Yes, you can plant potatoes in the fall in parts of East Texas! This is a great way to get a second harvest. The target planting time is about 110-120 days before your first expected fall frost.
- For an early November frost, plant in mid-to-late July.
- Fall planting is trickier due to summer heat. You’ll need to keep soil moist and cool with heavy mulch.
- Choose fast-maturing varieties like ‘Yukon Gold’ or ‘Red LaSoda’ for fall success.
Choosing the Right Potato Varieties
Selecting varieties suited to our climate and your taste is key. Here are some top performers for East Texas:
- Red LaSoda: A reliable, heat-tolerant red potato perfect for our springs. Excellent for boiling and salads.
- Yukon Gold: A versatile gold-fleshed potato with great flavor. It matures relatively early.
- Kennebec: A high-yielding, all-purpose white potato that stores very well. Good disease resistance.
- Pontiac (Red Pontiac): Another sturdy red variety that produces well in warmer soils.
Avoid long-season varieties that take over 120 days to mature, as they’ll likely hit the summer heat before finishing up.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Follow these steps for planting your potato crop correctly.
1. Preparing Seed Potatoes
Never plant potatoes from the grocery store; they are often treated to prevent sprouting. Buy certified disease-free seed potatoes from a garden center.
- About a week before planting, “chit” or sprout your seed potatoes. Place them in a cool, bright spot.
- On planting day, cut larger seed potatoes into pieces. Each piece should be about the size of a golf ball and have at least 2-3 “eyes” (sprouts).
- Let the cut pieces air-dry for a day to form a callus. This helps prevent rot in the ground.
2. Preparing Your Garden Bed
Potatoes need loose, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. They thrive in slightly acidic soil (pH 5.0-6.0).
- Choose a spot that gets full sun (at least 6-8 hours).
- Work the soil deeply, breaking up any clods. Mix in several inches of compost or aged manure.
- Raised beds or mounded rows are ideal for drainage, witch is critical in our sometimes heavy clay soils.
3. The Planting Process
- Dig a trench about 6-8 inches deep.
- Place seed potato pieces cut-side down, with eyes facing up, spaced 12 inches apart in the trench.
- Space your trenches about 2-3 feet apart.
- Cover the potatoes with 4 inches of soil. Do not fill the trench completely yet.
- Water the bed thoroughly after planting.
Caring for Your Growing Potatoes
Consistent care after planting ensures a healthy crop.
Hilling (The Most Important Task)
When green shoots reach about 6-8 inches tall, gently pull soil from the sides of the row to mound it around the stems, leaving just the top few leaves exposed. Repeat this process every few weeks.
Hilling prevents sunlight from reaching the developing tubers (which turns them green and toxic), supports the plant, and improves yield. It’s not a step you should skip.
Watering and Feeding
Potatoes need consistent moisture, especially once tubers start forming. Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week.
Water deeply at the soil level, avoiding wetting the foliage to prevent disease. Reduce watering when the plants start to yellow and die back near harvest time.
Use a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer at planting. To much nitrogen encourages leafy growth instead of potatoes.
Harvesting Your East Texas Potatoes
You can harvest “new” potatoes about 2-3 weeks after the plants finish flowering. For mature, storage potatoes, wait until the plant vines have completely yellowed and died back.
Use a digging fork on a dry day, starting far from the plant to avoid spearing tubers. Let potatoes cure in a dark, well-ventilated place for 1-2 weeks before storing them in a cool, dark location.
Common Problems and Solutions in Our Region
- Colorado Potato Beetle: Hand-pick these striped beetles and their larvae. Use row covers for prevention.
- Early Blight: Fungal disease common in humid weather. Ensure good air circulation, water at the base, and rotate crops yearly.
- Heat Stress: If an early heatwave hits, use shade cloth and increase mulching to keep soil cool. A thick layer of straw or leaves works wonders.
- Poor Drainage: Causes rot. If you have heavy clay, always plant in raised mounds or containers.
FAQ: Planting Potatoes in East Texas
Can I plant potatoes in March?
Yes, early March is often fine, especially in northern East Texas. However, the later you plant, the greater the risk your crop will mature during hot weather, which can reduce yields and quality.
What happens if I plant potatoes to early?
Planting in cold, soggy soil (before it reaches 45°F) can cause seed pieces to rot instead of sprout. It’s better to wait for the right soil conditions.
Can I grow potatoes in containers?
Absolutely. Use a large container (15+ gallons) with excellent drainage. The process is the same: plant, and hill by adding more soil mix as the plants grow. This is a great option for small spaces.
How long does it take for potatoes to grow?
Most varieties take 90-110 days from planting to full maturity. You can start harvesting small “new” potatoes earlier, around 60-70 days.
Why did my potato plants flower?
Flowering is normal and doesn’t directly affect tuber growth. It often signals that tuber formation is underway underground. It’s not a sign to harvest, but it’s a good reminder to keep up with watering.
Timing your potato planting correctly in East Texas sets the stage for the entire growing season. By hitting that window from late winter to early spring, preparing your soil well, and staying on top of hilling, you’ll be rewarded with a plentiful harvest of homegrown potatoes. Remember to adjust based on your specific location’s frost dates and always let soil temperature be your final guide. Now, grab your seed potatoes and get ready to plant.