When To Plant Lettuce In Maryland

If you’re wondering when to plant lettuce in Maryland, you’re in the right place. Getting the timing right is the single most important step for a crisp, productive harvest. Maryland’s unique climate, with its hot summers and variable springs, offers a long growing season for lettuce if you know the key planting windows.

This guide will walk you through the best dates, varieties, and techniques. You’ll learn how to extend your harvest from early spring straight through to fall.

The perfect planting time depends on the season. Lettuce is a cool-weather crop that thrives in mild temperatures and often struggles in summer heat.

For most gardeners, the year is split into two main planting periods: spring and late summer/fall.

Spring Planting Dates

Your spring planting goal is to get seeds or transplants into the ground as early as possible. You want them to mature before the intense summer heat arrives, which can cause lettuce to bolt (send up a flower stalk) and turn bitter.

Direct Seed Outdoors: You can sow seeds directly into your garden soil 4-6 weeks before the last average spring frost. In much of Maryland, this is typically between mid-March and early April. The soil should be workable, not frozen or soggy.
Transplant Seedlings: For an even earlier start, begin seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost (around late January to February). Harden off the seedlings and transplant them outside 2-4 weeks before the last frost date, once they have a few true leaves.

Always check your specific local frost dates, as Maryland’s climate varies from the mountains to the coastal plain.

Fall Planting Dates

Fall is often the easiest and most productive time to grow lettuce in Maryland. The cooling temperatures are ideal for germination and growth. You’ll need to work backwards from your first average fall frost date.

Direct Seed for Fall: Start sowing seeds again in late July through August. For a continuous harvest, make successive plantings every 10-14 days until about 8 weeks before the first fall frost.
Transplant for Fall: You can also start seeds indoors in mid-summer to transplant in late August or early September. This gives young plants a break from the hottest part of the summer.

Summer & Winter Considerations

With a few tricks, you can grow lettuce almost year-round.

Summer: Choose heat-tolerant varieties like ‘Black Seeded Simpson’ or ‘Summer Crisp’. Use shade cloth to protect plants from the harsh afternoon sun. Planting in a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade is very helpfull.
Winter: With a cold frame or simple hoop house, you can grow cold-hardy varieties like ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Arctic King’ for harvests well into the winter months. Plant these in early fall for winter harvesting.

Choosing the Right Lettuce Types

Not all lettuce varieties mature at the same speed. Picking the right type for the season is crucial.

Loose-Leaf Lettuce

This is the most forgiving type for Maryland beginners. You can harvest individual leaves as needed. They mature quickly, often in 40-50 days, and many are heat-resistant. Examples: ‘Oakleaf’, ‘Salad Bowl’, ‘Tango’.

Romaine (Cos) Lettuce

Romaine forms tall, crisp heads and tolerates heat fairly well. It takes a bit longer, usually 60-75 days. Good choices include ‘Little Gem’ and ‘Parris Island Cos’.

Butterhead (Bibb) Lettuce

These form loose, tender heads. They prefer the cooler temperatures of spring and fall. They’re a bit more sensitive. Try ‘Buttercrunch’ or ‘Speckled Bibb’. Matures in 50-70 days.

Crisphead (Iceberg) Lettuce

This is the most challenging in Maryland’s climate. It requires a long, cool season to form its tight head and is quick to bolt in heat. It’s best attempted by experienced gardeners in the fall. Matures in 70-90 days.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Follow these steps for success from seed to harvest.

Prepare the Soil: Lettuce needs loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Work in several inches of compost a few weeks before planting. The ideal soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0.
Sow Seeds Correctly: Plant seeds only ¼ to ½ inch deep. Space them according to package directions, but you can sow a bit thicker and thin later. Keep the seed bed consistently moist for germination.
Thin Seedlings: Once seedlings are a few inches tall, thin them to the proper spacing (usually 6-12 inches apart, depending on variety). The thinnings can be eaten as microgreens!
Water Consistently: Lettuce has shallow roots. Provide about 1 inch of water per week, more during dry spells. Water at the base in the morning to keep leaves dry and prevent disease.
Fertilize Lightly: A light application of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 3-4 weeks can boost growth. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which can lead to two much leafy growth with poor flavor.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with perfect timing, you might face a few challenges.

Bolting: This is when the plant starts flowering. The leaves become bitter. Solution: Plant at the right time, use shade cloth in summer, and choose slow-bolt varieties. Harvest leaves promptly.
Slugs and Snails: These pests love tender lettuce. Solution: Use organic slug bait, beer traps, or hand-pick them in the evening.
Aphids: Small green or black insects on the undersides of leaves. Solution: Spray them off with a strong jet of water or use insecticidal soap.
Tip Burn: Brown edges on leaves often caused by inconsistent watering or calcium deficiency. Solution: Maintain even soil moisture and ensure your soil pH is not to high or low.

Harvesting for Optimal Flavor

How you harvest impacts your yield and taste.

Leaf-by-Leaf: For loose-leaf types, simply snip off the outer leaves when they are 4-6 inches long. The center will continue producing new leaves.
Cut-and-Come-Again: When the plant is mature, cut the entire plant about an inch above the soil line. It will often regrow for a second, smaller harvest.
Whole Head: For head lettuce (butterhead, romaine, crisphead), harvest the entire head once it feels firm and full. Use a sharp knife to cut at the base.

Always harvest in the cool morning when leaves are crisp and full of moisture. This gives you the best flavor and texture.

FAQ: Planting Lettuce in Maryland

What is the absolute last date to plant lettuce in Maryland for fall?
You can plant up until about 8 weeks before your first hard frost. For many areas, a final planting in early to mid-September is possible, especially with protection like a cold frame.

Can I grow lettuce in partial shade?
Yes! In fact, during Maryland’s hot summers, partial shade (especially afternoon shade) is beneficial and can help prevent bolting.

Why did my lettuce seeds not germinate?
Lettuce seeds need light and cool soil to germinate well. If planted to deep or if soil temperatures are above 80°F, germination rates drop sharply. Summer sowing often requires extra attention to moisture and shade.

How do I store harvested lettuce?
Wash leaves gently, dry them thoroughly in a salad spinner, and store in a breathable bag or container with a paper towel in the refrigerator. Properly stored, it can last over a week.

Is it better to plant seeds or transplants?
Both work. Transplants give you a head start in spring and fall, which is a big advantage. Direct seeding is easier and avoids transplant shock. Many gardeners use a combination for a continuous supply.