When To Plant Lavender In Southern California

If you’re dreaming of lavender’s fragrant blooms and silvery foliage in your Southern California garden, timing is everything. Knowing exactly when to plant lavender in Southern California is the first step to a thriving, drought-tolerant display.

Our climate offers a long growing season, but lavender has specific preferences. Planting at the right moment gives your new plants the best chance to establish strong roots before facing our summer heat or winter rains. Let’s get your lavender off to a perfect start.

The optimal planting windows are in the mild seasons: early spring and early fall. This timing allows the plant to settle in without the stress of extreme temperatures.

For most areas, aim for March through April for spring planting. The soil is warming, and the threat of frost is past. For fall planting, target October through early November. This gives roots time to grow in the still-warm soil before cooler winter weather arrives.

Why Timing Matters So Much

Lavender is native to the Mediterranean. It thrives in conditions similar to our own: full sun, excellent drainage, and not to much humidity. Planting at the wrong time can lead to failure.

Summer planting exposes young plants to intense, dry heat. They can wilt and struggle before their roots can support them. Winter planting, especially in wetter areas, can lead to root rot in cold, soggy soil. Sticking to spring and fall mimics the natural cycles the plant expects.

Regional Variations Within Southern California

Our region has microclimates. Your specific location can shift your ideal planting date by a few weeks.

Coastal Zones (Los Angeles, San Diego, Orange County)

You have the most flexibility due to mild temperatures. Both spring and fall planting work exceptionally well. You can often plant succesfully from late February through May and again from September through November.

Inland Valleys & Deserts (Riverside, San Bernardino, Palm Springs)

Heat is your biggest challenge. Prioritize fall planting (October-November). This gives plants all winter and spring to establish before the brutal summer. If planting in spring, do it as early as possible in March.

Mountain & Foothill Areas

Frost is a concern here. Wait until all danger of frost has passed in late spring, around May. Fall planting is risky unless done very early, as early frosts can damage new plants.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Once you’ve chosen your date, proper planting technique is crucial. Follow these steps for best results.

Choose the Right Spot: Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily. More sun is better. Ensure the area has good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Test and Amend the Soil: Lavender demands fast-draining, alkaline soil. Our native clay soil is its worst enemy. Dig a hole about 12 inches deep and fill it with water. If it drains in less than 15 minutes, you’re okay. If not, you must amend.
- Mix your native soil with 50% coarse builder’s sand or pea gravel and 50% compost or planting mix.
- For heavy clay, consider building a raised mound or planting bed 12-18 inches high.
- Aim for a slightly alkaline pH (6.5-7.5). Adding a handful of lime at planting can help.
Plant Correctly: Dig a hole just slightly wider and no deeper than the nursery pot. Gently remove the plant, loosen the roots, and place it in the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Never plant lavender deeper than it was in its pot. Backfill with your soil mix.
Water Wisely: Water deeply immediately after planting to settle the soil. Then, allow the soil to dry out almost completely before watering again. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill lavender.
Mulch for Success: Use a light, inorganic mulch like small crushed rock or pea gravel. This reflects sun, retains heat, and keeps the crown of the plant dry. Avoid organic mulches like bark that hold moisture.

Choosing the Best Lavender Varieties

Not all lavenders are equal for our climate. Some handle humidity better, while others prefer desert heat.

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Best for coastal and cooler inland areas. It prefers milder summers. Look for ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’, or ‘Phenomenal’.
Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas): Excellent for all Southern California zones, including hotter inland areas. It’s more tolerant of our soil and humidity. ‘Bandera Purple’ is a popular choice.
Lavandin Hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia): These are workhorses, often larger and very heat-tolerant. ‘Grosso’, ‘Provence’, and ‘SuperBlue’ are fantastic for inland valleys.

First-Year Care Essentials

Your lavender’s first year is about establishment. Consistent care during this period sets it up for a long, productive life.

Watering Schedule

This is the most common mistake. Lavender is drought-tolerant once established, but needs careful watering at first.

Weeks 1-4: Water once or twice a week, depending on heat. Check soil moisture first.
Months 2-12: Gradually extend time between waterings. Aim to water deeply but infrequently, encouraging deep root growth. By the end of the first summer, you may be watering only every 2-3 weeks.

Pruning for Shape

Begin pruning in the first year to prevent a woody, leggy plant. After the first flush of flowers fades, give it a light trim, cutting back no more than one-third of the green growth. Avoid cutting into old wood.

Fertilizing

Go easy! Lavender thrives in lean soil. Too much fertilizer promotes soft, weak growth and fewer flowers. A light application of a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer in early spring is usually sufficient. Often, no fertilizer is needed at all if you have good compost in your soil mix.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with perfect timing, issues can arise. Here’s how to fix them.

Yellowing Leaves: Almost always a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Check your soil and reduce watering immediately.
Leggy, Floppy Growth: Usually means not enough sun. Lavender in partial shade will stretch and weaken. Consider moving it to a sunnier location.
No Flowers: Could be from to much nitrogen fertilizer, not enough sun, or improper pruning. Ensure it gets full sun and prune regularly.
Root Rot: Fatal if not caught early. Plants wilt, stems turn brown at the base. Prevention (good drainage) is the only cure. Remove and replace affected plants.

FAQ: Your Lavender Questions Answered

Can I plant lavender in the summer in SoCal?

It’s not recommended. The extreme heat stresses new plants, requiring constant babysitting with water, which can then lead to rot. If you must, plant from a large gallon-sized pot, provide afternoon shade for the first few weeks, and water very carefully.

Is fall or spring better for planting lavender?

For most of Southern California, fall has a slight edge. The warm soil promotes root growth through the winter, and plants are robust and ready for their first summer. In colder mountain zones, spring is safer.

How often should I water established lavender?

Once established (after 1-2 years), lavender is incredibly drought-tolerant. Deep water every 3-4 weeks during the hot, dry season. In cooler months, rainfall is often enough. Always err on the side of underwatering.

What companion plants grow well with lavender?

Choose other Mediterranean, sun-loving, and drought-tolerant plants. Excellent companions include rosemary, sage, thyme, santolina, California poppies, and salvia. They have similar water and soil needs.

By following this guide and planting your lavender at the optimal time, you’re giving it the foundation for success. With its beautiful foliage, iconic fragrance, and resilience, a well-planted lavender will be a joy in your garden for many years to come, attracting pollinators and providing you with endless blooms for bouquets and crafts.