If you’re wondering when to plant grass in Southern California, timing is everything for a successful lawn. The region’s unique climate means you can’t just sow seed any time of year and expect good results. Getting the timing right is the single most important step you can take. It saves you water, effort, and money in the long run.
This guide will walk you through the best seasons, the prep work needed, and how to choose the right grass type. We’ll keep it simple and practical, so you can get started with confidence.
When To Plant Grass In Southern California
For most of Southern California, the optimal time to plant grass seed is during the fall. Specifically, aim for late September through early November. The second-best window is in the spring, from mid-March through April.
Fall is ideal because the summer heat has passed, but the soil is still warm from the summer sun. Warm soil helps seeds germinate quickly. Cooler air temperatures reduce stress on the young grass and minimize water loss from evaporation. This gives the new lawn months of gentle growing weather before any potential summer heat returns.
Spring planting can work, but it comes with a challenge. The young grass has a shorter period to establish deep roots before facing the intense summer heat. This often requires more careful watering and protection.
Understanding Your Southern California Microclimate
Southern California isn’t one single climate. Your specific location makes a big difference. Here’s a quick breakdown:
- Coastal Areas (Los Angeles, San Diego, Orange County): Mild year-round. Fall is perfect. Spring is also very reliable.
- Inland Valleys (San Fernando, San Gabriel, Riverside): Hotter summers, cooler winters. Fall is critical for good establishment before frosts. Spring is riskier due to faster-arriving heat.
- High Desert (Lancaster, Palmdale): Cold winters and hot summers. Plant in very early fall or early spring to avoid temperature extremes. Frost dates are key here.
- Low Desert (Palm Springs): Extremely hot summers. The best time is early fall (October) or late winter (February), leveraging the warm-season grass cycle.
Choosing the Right Grass Type for Your Lawn
Your planting schedule is directly tied to whether you choose a cool-season or warm-season grass. Picking the wrong type for your needs is a common mistake.
Cool-Season Grasses
These grasses thrive in cooler temperatures (60-75°F). They stay green year-round in many coastal areas but struggle in inland summer heat. Plant them in early fall.
- Tall Fescue: The most popular choice. It’s drought-tolerant, wears well, and has deep roots. Many modern blends are very water-wise.
- Perennial Ryegrass: Germinates very fast. Often mixed with fescue for quicker cover and repair.
- Kentucky Bluegrass: Less common here. It needs more water and cooler temps, mainly for high-elevation lawns.
Warm-Season Grasses
These grasses love heat (80-95°F) and go dormant, turning brown, in winter. They are the best choice for hot inland valleys and deserts. Plant them in late spring or early summer, as soil warms up.
- Bermudagrass: Very tough, drought-tolerant, and handles heavy foot traffic. Can be invasive into garden beds.
- St. Augustine: Loves heat and partial shade. Has a coarse, broad leaf and requires more water than Bermuda.
- Zoysiagrass: Slow to establish but forms a very dense, weed-resistant mat. Good drought tolerance once established.
- Buffalograss: A native option for low-water lawns. Goes fully dormant in winter.
Step-by-Step Lawn Planting Guide
Once you’ve picked your time and grass, follow these steps for the best results.
Step 1: Prepare the Soil
This is the most important step and often skipped. Remove all old grass, weeds, and debris. Loosen the soil to a depth of at least 6-8 inches using a tiller or garden fork. This allows roots to penetrate deeply.
Add 2-3 inches of compost over the area and mix it into the native soil. This improves drainage, provides nutrients, and helps retain moisture. Level the area with a rake, filling in low spots.
Step 2: Select and Apply Seed or Sod
For seed, choose a high-quality blend suited to your sun/shade conditions. Use a broadcast or drop spreader for even coverage. Follow the bag’s rate carefully—too much seed causes crowding, to little leaves bare spots.
Lightly rake the seed into the top 1/4 inch of soil. For sod, ensure you soil is moist and level. Lay strips in a staggered brick pattern, pressing edges tightly together. Roll the sod after laying to ensure good soil contact.
Step 3: Water Properly for Establishment
Watering is critical. For seed, keep the top inch of soil consistently moist but not soggy. This usually means light watering 2-3 times a day for the first 2 weeks.
Once grass sprouts and reaches about 2 inches, reduce frequency but water more deeply to encourage deep roots. For sod, water daily for the first week, then taper off. The goal is to keep the roots and soil underneath moist.
Step 4: First Mowing and Ongoing Care
Mow when the grass reaches about one-third taller than its recommended height. For example, if you want a 3-inch lawn, mow at 4 inches. Ensure your mower blade is sharp to avoid tearing tender grass.
Wait at least 6-8 weeks after planting before applying any fertilizer. Use a starter fertilizer at seeding/sodding, then follow a seasonal schedule. Begin regular weeding once the lawn is established enough to handle some disturbance.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with good timing, small errors can set you back. Here’s what to watch out for:
- Planting Too Late in Fall: Seedlings hit by frost may not survive. Give them 2+ months of growth before consistent cold.
- Overwatering or Underwatering: Both are deadly. The “consistently moist” stage for seeds is non-negotiable.
- Skipping Soil Prep: Grass roots need soft, amended soil to thrive. Hard, compacted ground leads to a weak lawn.
- Using Old or Low-Quality Seed: Check the germination date on the bag. Old seed has low viability, wasting your effort.
- Mowing Too Soon or Too Short: This stresses young grass and can pull seedlings right out of the ground.
FAQ: Planting Grass in Southern California
Can I plant grass seed in the summer?
It’s not recommended. The extreme heat and rapid evaporation make it very hard to keep seedbeds moist. Water costs soar, and germination rates are poor. Warm-season sod can be laid in early summer with diligent watering.
Is October too late to plant grass?
October is usually excellent for planting cool-season grasses in coastal and inland areas. In high desert or mountain areas, early October is your last safe chance.
How long does it take for grass seed to grow?
Depending on type and conditions, most grass seed germinates in 5-14 days. Perennial ryegrass can sprout in 5-7 days, while Tall Fescue takes 7-14 days. Full lawn coverage takes 6-8 weeks.
Can I just throw grass seed on my existing lawn?
This is called overseeding. It can help fill in thin spots, but for best results, you should mow short, rake out thatch, and aerate first to ensure seed contacts soil. It’s best done in the fall.
What is the most drought-tolerant grass for Southern California?
For cool-season, choose Tall Fescue blends labeled as “water-wise.” For warm-season, Bermudagrass and Buffalograss are top contenders for low water use once established.
By aligning your project with the right season, preparing your soil thoroughly, and choosing a grass type that matches your local climate, you’ll give your new lawn the best possible start. Remember, the little bit of extra planning you do now pays off for years in a healthier, more resilient yard that uses resources wisely. With the right timing and care, you can achieve the green lawn you want even in Southern California’s unique environment.