When To Plant Garlic In Washington State

If you’re a gardener in Washington State, knowing when to plant garlic is the first step to a successful crop. Getting the timing right for when to plant garlic in washington state ensures your cloves develop strong roots before winter and deliver optimal fall harvests.

Planting garlic in the fall might seem counterintuitive, but it’s the secret to big, flavorful bulbs. Our cool, wet winters and long summer days are actually perfect for it. This guide will walk you through the exact timing, best varieties for our region, and simple steps to get it right.

For most of Washington, the ideal planting window is in October. This timing is crucial. You want to get the cloves into the ground after the first light frosts have occurred, but well before the ground freezes solid.

The goal is to give the garlic just enough time to establish roots and maybe send up a small green shoot that dies back in winter. It should not put on significant top growth before the cold sets in. Planting too early can lead to disease or frost damage, while planting too late means weak roots that won’t survive the cold.

Regional Timing Variations Across Washington

Washington’s diverse climates mean a single date doesn’t work for everyone. Here’s a breakdown by region:

Western Washington (Puget Sound, Coastal Areas): Plant from mid-October through mid-November. The milder, maritime climate allows for a later planting window. The soil stays workable longer here.
Eastern Washington (Columbia Basin, Spokane area): Aim for early to mid-October. Colder winters and earlier ground freezes mean you need to get cloves in a bit sooner to ensure good root establishment.
High Elevation Areas (Cascades, foothills): Target late September to early October. The key is to plant about 4-6 weeks before your ground typically freezes for the season.

A good rule of thumb is to plant after the first autumn rain has moistened the soil, but while daytime temperatures are still in the 50s and 60s. You can also watch your ornamental plants—it’s often time to plant garlic when you’re planting tulip bulbs.

Understanding Your Garlic: Hardneck vs. Softneck

Choosing the right type of garlic for our climate makes a big difference. There are two main categories, and each has it’s strengths.

Hardneck Garlic: This type thrives in colder winters and is the best choice for most of Washington, especially east of the Cascades and in colder microclimates. It produces a stiff central stalk called a scape (which you can harvest and eat!) and typically has larger, easier-to-peel cloves with a more complex flavor. However, it doesn’t store quite as long as softneck.
Softneck Garlic: Prefers milder winters and is an excellent choice for western Washington’s maritime climate. It’s the type you commonly see braided. Softneck garlic offers more cloves per bulb, stores for a very long time, and is generally more productive in warmer areas. The cloves can be smaller and sometimes trickier to peel.

Recommended Varieties for Washington Gardens

For Hardneck: Try ‘Music’ (reliable, large cloves), ‘German Red’ (great cold-hardiness), or ‘Chesnok Red’ (excellent flavor).
For Softneck: ‘Inchelium Red’ (a Washington heirloom from the Colville Reservation, stores wonderfully) or ‘California Early’ (a consistent performer).

Step-by-Step: Planting Your Garlic for Success

Follow these simple steps to ensure your garlic gets the best possible start.

Choose Your Site: Pick a spot with full sun (at least 6-8 hours) and well-draining soil. Garlic hates wet feet, especially over winter. Raised beds are ideal in our rainy western regions.
Prepare the Soil: Garlic loves fertile, loose soil. Work in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure a few weeks before planting. A balanced organic fertilizer mixed in at planting time is also beneficial.
Select and Break Apart Bulbs: Only plant the largest, healthiest bulbs from a reputable source (garden center or seed company). Do not use grocery store garlic, as it is often treated to prevent sprouting. Gently break the bulb apart into individual cloves just before planting, keeping the papery skin on each clove.
Plant Cloves Correctly: Plant cloves pointy-end up, root-side down. Space them 4-6 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart. The depth is critical: plant them 2-3 inches deep in heavier soils, and up to 4 inches deep in sandy soils or for extra winter protection in very cold areas.
Mulch Heavily: After planting, water the bed lightly if the soil is dry. Then, apply a 4-6 inch layer of loose mulch like straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings. This mulch layer is vital—it insulates the cloves from freeze-thaw cycles, suppresses weeds, and conserves moisture.

Caring for Your Garlic Through the Seasons

Garlic is a low-maintenance crop, but a little attention at key times boosts your harvest.

Spring: As shoots emerge, you can gently pull back some mulch. Side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (like blood meal or fish emulsion) in early spring to fuel leaf growth, which creates the bulb.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy from spring through early summer. In Western WA, rainfall often handles this. In Eastern WA, regular irrigation is essential. A crucial tip: stop watering about 2-3 weeks before your planned harvest date to let the bulbs cure in the ground.
Scape Harvest (for Hardnecks): In late spring or early summer, hardneck garlic will send up a curly flower stalk called a scape. Cut or snap it off when it makes one full curl. This redirects the plant’s energy into making a bigger bulb, and the scapes are a delicious bonus for pesto or stir-fries.

Knowing When to Harvest in the Fall

Harvest time in Washington typically falls between mid-July and early August. Timing is more about the plant’s signs than the calendar.

Watch for these signals:

The bottom 3-4 leaves have turned brown and dry.
The top leaves are still somewhat green.
The plant begins to look a bit “tired” and leans over.

Don’t wait for all the leaves to die back—if you do, the bulb’s protective wrapper may have deteriorated, and it won’t store well. Carefully dig up a test bulb first to check if the cloves have filled out nicely.

Curing and Storing Your Washington Garlic

Proper curing is non-negotiable for long storage.

Gently brush off excess soil; do not wash the bulbs.
Bundle 5-10 plants together and hang them, or lay them in a single layer on a rack.
Place them in a warm, dry, dark, and well-ventilated area (like a garage or covered porch) for 3-4 weeks.
Once the necks are completely tight and dry and the outer skin is papery, trim the roots and cut the stems (or braid softnecks).
Store your cured garlic in a cool, dark, and dry place. Properly cured hardneck garlic can last 4-6 months, while softnecks often store for 9-12 months.

Common Problems and Solutions in Washington

White Rot: A serious fungal disease causing fluffy white growth on bulbs. Prevent it by rotating your garlic bed on a 4-year cycle and avoid planting in poorly drained soil.
Onion Maggot: These pests can damage bulbs. Using floating row covers in spring can prevent the adult flies from laying eggs at the base of plants.
Poorly Sized Bulbs: Often caused by planting too late, insufficient spring fertilizer, or competition from weeds. Ensuring good timing, fertility, and a thick mulch layer solves most of these issues.

FAQ: Planting Garlic in Washington State

Can I plant garlic in the spring instead?

You can, but fall planting is vastly superior for our climate. Spring-planted garlic often produces much smaller, single-clove bulbs called “rounds” because it misses the crucial cold period (vernalization) needed for proper clove development.

What if I missed the fall planting window?

If the ground isn’t frozen, you can still try planting in very early spring (February-March) with pre-chilled seed garlic. The bulbs will be smaller, but you’ll still get something. Store your seed garlic in the refrigerator for 8-10 weeks first to simulate winter.

How do I save my own garlic for planting next year?

Set aside your largest, most perfect bulbs from your summer harvest specifically for planting. Store them as normal, and then use those cloves for your fall planting. This saves money and adapts the garlic to your specific garden conditions over time.

My garlic sprouted early in winter, is it ruined?

Not necessarily. A little green growth in a mild winter is common in Western WA. The thick mulch layer helps protect it. If a hard freeze is forecast, you can add extra straw or leaves for insulation. The plants are often more resilient than you think.

Getting your garlic in the ground at the right moment in autumn sets the stage for an entire year of flavor. By following these regional tips and simple steps, you’ll be on your way to harvesting plentiful, robust bulbs from your own backyard next summer. There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of pulling up your own homegrown garlic.