Knowing when to plant garlic in the fall is the single most important factor for a successful harvest next summer. Get the timing right, and you’ll be rewarded with large, flavorful bulbs; get it wrong, and you risk disappointing, undersized cloves.
This guide walks you through the simple steps to perfect your planting schedule. We’ll cover the “why” behind fall planting, how to pinpoint the best date for your area, and the exact process to follow.
When To Plant Garlic In The Fall
Fall planting allows garlic to establish roots before winter dormancy. Once spring arrives, it’s ready to surge into growth, leading to much bigger bulbs than spring-planted garlic. The goal is to give it enough time to root, but not so much time that it sends up significant green growth above the soil before winter.
Understanding Your Planting Window
The classic rule is to plant garlic in the autumn after the first frost but before the ground freezes solid. You’re aiming for a sweet spot about 4-6 weeks before your ground typically freezes. This gives the clove time to set roots.
Soil temperature is a great indicator. Ideally, you want the soil at planting depth to be around 50°F (10°C). A simple soil thermometer can take the guesswork out of it.
Regional Timing Guidelines
Your local climate is key. Here’s a general breakdown:
- Cold Northern Climates (Zones 0-5): Plant from late September through mid-October. The earlier in this window for the coldest zones.
- Temperate Climates (Zones 6-7): Aim for mid-October through early November. This is a very common window for many gardeners.
- Warmer Southern Climates (Zones 8-9): Plant from late October through December. You may need to pre-chill bulbs in the refrigerator for 8-10 weeks before planting to simulate winter.
- Very Warm Climates (Zone 10+): Garlic can be tricky, but is often planted in November or December for a earlier spring harvest.
Choosing and Preparing Your Garlic
Never plant garlic from the grocery store. It’s often treated to prevent sprouting and may not be suited to your climate. Instead, buy “seed garlic” from a reputable nursery or local farmer.
Hardneck vs. Softneck Varieties
Your choice affects flavor and harvest time.
- Hardneck Garlic: Prefers colder winters. It produces a stiff central stalk (called a scape) and has fewer, larger cloves per bulb. The flavor is often more complex and it peels easier.
- Softneck Garlic: Better for milder winters. It stores longer, produces more cloves per bulb, and is the type you commonly see braided. It has a milder flavor typically.
Pre-Planting Preparation
Break the bulb into individual cloves just before planting. Keep the papery husk on each clove—it protects them. Select the largest, healthiest cloves for planting; the bigger the clove, the bigger the potential bulb. You can use smaller cloves in the kitchen.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Follow these steps for the best results.
1. Select and Prepare the Site
Garlic needs full sun and well-drained soil. It hates wet feet. Add several inches of compost or well-rotted manure to the bed a few weeks before planting to improve fertility and drainage.
2. Planting Depth and Spacing
This is crucial. Plant each clove pointy-end up, root-side down.
- Depth: Plant 2-3 inches deep in colder zones, 1-2 inches deep in milder zones.
- Spacing: Space cloves 6-8 inches apart within the row.
- Row Spacing: Space rows about 12 inches apart.
3. Mulching Heavily
After planting, water the bed well if the soil is dry. Then, apply a 4-6 inch layer of loose mulch like straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings. This mulch is vital—it insulates the cloves from extreme cold, prevents frost heave, and suppresses weeds in the spring.
Fall and Spring Care Tips
Your job after planting is mostly hands-off until spring.
In the fall, the cloves will send out roots and maybe a small green shoot. This is normal. The mulch will protect it. No further watering is usually needed over winter unless you live in a very dry region with no snow cover.
In early spring, as the soil warms, green shoots will emerge through the mulch. Leave the mulch in place to supress weeds. Begin watering regularly if spring rains are lacking. Garlic needs consistent moisture for bulb formation.
For hardneck varieties, you’ll see a curly flower stalk (the scape) appear in early summer. Snap or cut this off to direct the plant’s energy into the bulb underground. Don’t throw it away—garlic scapes are a delicious seasonal treat!
When and How to Harvest
Harvest time is usually mid-to-late summer, depending on when you planted. Garlic tells you it’s ready. Look for these signs:
- The bottom 3-4 leaves turn yellow or brown, while the top 5-6 leaves are still green.
- The plant begins to dry down and fall over.
Don’t wait for the entire plant to turn brown—this means you’ve over-ripened and the bulb’s protective wrapper may have degraded.
To harvest, gently loosen the soil with a garden fork and lift the bulbs. Avoid pulling by the stem, as it can break. Brush off excess soil, but do not wash the bulbs.
Curing and Storage for Longevity
Proper curing is essential for storage. It allows the bulbs to dry slowly, forming that protective papery skin.
- Gather bulbs with stems and roots attached.
- Place them in a single layer in a warm, dry, airy, and shaded spot (like a garage or covered porch).
- Let them cure for 3-4 weeks until the stems are completely dry and the outer skin is papery.
- Trim roots and cut stems to about an inch, or leave them long for braiding (softnecks).
Store your cured garlic in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. A mesh bag or woven basket works perfectly. With proper care, your homegrown garlic can last for many months.
Common Problems and Solutions
Garlic is relatively trouble-free, but a few issues can pop up.
- Poor Bulb Formation: Usually caused by planting too late in the fall, not enough cold exposure (for hardnecks), or inconsistent spring watering.
- Early Sprouting: If green growth emerges in late fall, it’s usually not a problem if you planted at the right depth and have good mulch cover. The mulch will protect it.
- Rotting Cloves: Caused by poorly drained soil or planting damaged cloves. Always ensure good drainage and only plant the healthiest cloves.
- Pests: Onion maggots or nematodes can sometimes be a issue. Rotate your garlic bed each year—don’t plant it in the same spot where onions or garlic grew in the last 3 years.
FAQ Section
What happens if I plant garlic too early in the fall?
If planted too early, garlic may produce too much top growth before winter. This tender growth can be damaged by hard frosts, weakening the plant and potentially reducing your harvest size.
Can I plant garlic in the spring instead?
You can, but spring-planted garlic often results in much smaller bulbs because it misses the crucial root-development period of fall. The cloves essentially have less time to grow.
How do I know if my garlic has survived the winter?
In early spring, gently brush back the mulch in a spot or two. You should see green shoots emerging. If you don’t, wait a bit longer as soil warms. Sometimes growth is just slow to start.
Should I fertilize my garlic?
Garlic is a heavy feeder. Amending soil with compost at planting is key. In spring, you can side-dress with a balanced organic fertilizer or more compost when growth resumes. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers later in the season, as they can encourage leaf growth over bulb development.
What is the best mulch for garlic?
Straw is excellent because it’s loose and insulating. Shredded leaves or grass clippings (if not treated with herbicide) also work well. The key is a loose layer that doesn’t mat down and smother the emerging shoots.
By following these guidelines for when to plant garlic in the fall, you set your crop up for sucess. The process is simple, but timing is everything. With a little planning in the autumn, you’ll be enjoying your own homegrown, flavorful garlic for seasons to come. Remember, the best time to plant is when the soil has cooled but there’s still enough time for roots to establish—that’s the gardeners golden rule for garlic.