When To Plant Fruit Trees In Central Texas

Getting the timing right is the first step to a successful orchard in our unique climate. Knowing when to plant fruit trees in central texas is the most important decision you’ll make for their long-term health. Planting at the optimal time gives your trees a gentle start, allowing roots to establish before our famous summer heat arrives.

This guide will walk you through the best seasons, specific month-by-month recommendations, and how to adjust for different tree types. We’ll cover the simple steps for planting and the early care that ensures your trees thrive for years to come.

The golden rule for central Texas is to plant during the dormant season. This period, when trees are not actively growing leaves or fruit, runs from late fall through winter and into very early spring. Planting during dormancy minimizes transplant shock.

The tree can focus its energy entirely on growing new roots into the surrounding soil. By the time spring warmth signals it to leaf out, it will already have a solid foundation to support that new growth and survive the summer.

The Two Best Planting Windows

We have two primary planting seasons, each with its own slight advantages.

Fall (Late October – December): This is often considered the ideal time. Soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth, while the air is cool. The tree gets a full fall and winter to establish before spring. It’s especially good for peaches, plums, and pears.
Late Winter / Early Spring (February – Mid-March): This is a very close second and the most common time people plant. The ground is workable, and the tree will break dormancy soon after planting. It’s crucial to finish before buds begin to swell significantly and before the heat kicks in. This window is excellent for all fruit trees, particularly figs and persimmons.

What to Avoid

Avoid planting in late spring or summer. Planting a tree just before our intense heat is a recipe for stress. The young tree will struggle to establish roots while simultaneously trying to support leaves and cope with evaporation. It will require exhausting amounts of water and has a much lower chance of survival.

Month-by-Month Planting Calendar

October: Usually still too warm and dry. Wait for consistent cooler temps.
November: Excellent. Ideal for most trees.
December: Excellent. Ensure soil isn’t waterlogged from rains.
January: Good. Watch for frozen ground; avoid planting on freezing days.
February: Prime time. The best month for spring planting.
March: Good, but aim for the first half. Late March can get surprisingly warm.
April: Risky. Only plant if you find a potted tree and are committed to rigorous watering.
May – September: Not recommended. High stress on tree and gardener.

Variations by Tree Type

While the dormant season applies to all, some trees have particular preferences based on their chill hour requirements and heat tolerance.

Deciduous Trees (Peach, Plum, Apple, Pear)

These trees, which lose their leaves, are perfectly suited to dormant planting. Both fall and late winter are fantastic. For peaches and plums, which bloom very early, a fall planting gives them an extra edge.

Fig & Pomegranate

These are more cold-sensitive when young. Planting in early spring (February-March) is often safer than fall, as it avoids any potential damage from a severe first winter before they’re settled. They establish roots quickly in warming soil.

Citrus (in Protected Areas)

Citrus are evergreen and frost-tender. In central Texas, they are often grown in pots or very protected spots. If planting in ground, wait until all danger of frost has passed—typically early to mid-April. Be prepared to protect them their first few winters.

How to Plant Your Fruit Tree Correctly

Once you have the right time, technique is everything. A well-planted tree recovers faster and grows stronger.

Choose the Right Spot: Full sun (at least 8 hours) is non-negotiable. Ensure good air circulation and space for the tree’s mature size.
Dig a Great Hole: Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball is tall. This is critical! Planting too deep is a major cause of failure. The root flare (where trunk widens) must be above soil level.
Handle Roots: For potted trees, gently tease out circling roots. For bare-root trees, soak roots in water for 1-2 hours before planting.
Backfill with Native Soil: Do not amend the backfill soil with compost or potting mix. Use the soil you dug out. Amending just creates a “bathtub effect” where roots stay in the soft hole and don’t venture into native soil. You can mix in a little compost at the very top as a mulch.
Water Deeply: Build a small soil berm around the edge to create a watering basin. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
Mulch Heavily: Apply 3-4 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, shredded bark) in a wide circle around the tree. Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk itself to prevent rot.

Critical First-Year Care After Planting

Your job isn’t over after planting. The first year is about consistent support.

Watering: This is the most important task. Water deeply 1-2 times per week for the first full growing season, adjusting for rain. The goal is consistent moisture, not sogginess. During a hot, dry summer week, a new tree may need 10-15 gallons.
No Fertilizer at Planting: Avoid fertilizing at planting time. You can apply a light, balanced fertilizer in late spring after you see several inches of new growth, but it’s often not neccessary the first year.
Staking (Only if Needed): Most trees don’t need staking. Only stake if the tree is unstable or in a very windy spot. Use loose, flexible ties and remove them after one year.
Pruning: At planting, you only need to remove any broken or damaged branches. Major shaping pruning should wait until the next dormant season.
Patience: Don’t expect fruit the first year. The tree is investing in roots. Some fruit may set in year two or three, but it’s often wise to remove it to let the tree keep growing.

FAQ: Planting Fruit Trees in Central Texas

Can I plant fruit trees in the summer if I water them a lot?

It’s strongly discouraged. Even with frequent watering, the extreme heat and evaporation cause immense stress. The tree’s survival rate is significantly lower, and it will struggle to catch up to a dormant-planted tree.

What is the absolute best month to plant?

For a balance of success and ease, February is arguably the top month. The weather is mild, the soil is workable, and the tree has a long season ahead.

Is fall or spring better for planting?

Fall has a slight theoretical advantage for root establishment. However, spring planting is extremely successful and is often more practical as nurseries have their best stock then. You can’t go wrong with either if you’re within the recommended windows.

How do I protect a newly planted tree from a late frost?

If a hard frost is forecast after buds have broken in spring, you can cover the small tree with a frost cloth or blanket overnight. Avoid plastic. For minor frosts, the tree will usually recover on its own.

Where can I find trees suited for central Texas?

Seek out local nurseries, not big-box stores. They carry varieties selected for our chill hours and disease resistance. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension also provides excellent recommended variety lists for our region.

By choosing the right time—late fall through early spring—and following simple planting steps, you give your fruit trees the best possible start. Paying attention to these details means you’ll be enjoying homegrown harvests for many seasons to come. Remember, the work you do now in planting properly pays off for decades in healthier trees and better fruit.