Knowing the perfect moment to harvest your garlic can mean the difference between bulbs that store for months and those that disappoint. Getting the timing right for when to pick garlic is the most critical step for any gardener aiming for a successful crop.
It’s not as simple as watching the calendar, though that gives a clue. Garlic sends you clear signals from the garden when it’s at its peak ripeness. Learning to read these signs ensures you capture all that robust flavor and protective papery wrapping you’ve worked so hard to grow.
When to Pick Garlic
This heading is your golden rule. The following sections break down exactly how to recognize that perfect harvest window in your own garden.
The Two Main Garlic Types: A Timing Difference
First, know which type you’re growing. Softneck and hardneck garlic have slightly different timelines and clues.
* Hardneck Garlic produces a rigid central stalk called a scape. It generally matures earlier, often in mid-summer. You’ll harvest the curly scapes in early summer to encourage bigger bulbs, which gives you a preview of the main event.
* Softneck Garlic lacks the hard central stalk. It’s what you commonly see braided. It tends to mature a bit later than hardneck and is often favored for its longer storage life.
Regardless of type, the fundamental signs of readiness are universal. You just need to pay close attention.
The Top Visual Clue: Reading the Leaves
The leaves are garlic’s primary communication tool. For each leaf above ground, there is a wrapper layer around the bulb below. The plant draws energy from these leaves to build the bulb.
Here’s the simple guideline most gardeners follow:
* Wait for about 40-50% of the leaves to turn yellow or brown. This typically means 5-6 green leaves remain on hardneck varieties, and maybe a few more on softnecks.
* The remaining green leaves are crucial—they will become the protective papery skins that keep the bulb fresh in storage.
* If you wait until all leaves are brown, you’ve waited too long. The wrappers will have broken down, leaving the cloves exposed and unlikely to store well. The bulbs may also have started to split open in the ground.
The Secondary Test: Lifting a Sample Bulb
When the leaf signal seems right, it’s time for a hands-on check. Carefully dig up one or two bulbs; don’t just pull them by the stem.
Examine the bulb you’ve lifted:
* The wrapper should be papery, thick, and fully formed. It might have some dirt-stained streaks, but it should feel dry and durable.
* The cloves should be clearly segmented and plump, filling out the wrapper without bursting through it. You should be able to feel the individual cloves through the skin.
* If the cloves seem small and the wrapper is thin and disintegrating, you’ve likely harvested too early.
* If the bulb has split open or the cloves are poking out, you’ve harvested too late.
Why Timing is Everything
Picking at peak ripeness isn’t just about size. It’s about the future of your harvest.
* Too Early: The cloves won’t have reached their full size. The skins will be underdeveloped, like a thin onion skin, offering little protection during curing and storage. Your garlic will shrivel quickly.
* Too Late: The outer wrapper decays, leaving the cloves vulnerable to soilborne diseases and pests. Over-mature bulbs often split, which drastically reduces their storage potential. The flavor can sometimes become overly harsh.
A Step-by-Step Guide to Harvesting
Once you’ve confirmed it’s time, follow these steps for the best results.
1. Choose Your Weather. Aim for a dry day when the soil is not wet. Wet soil clings to bulbs and can increase the risk of mold during curing. If you’ve had rain, wait a day or two.
2. Loosen the Soil. Use a garden fork or a shovel to gently loosen the soil about 6 inches away from the plant’s stem. Insert the tool and lever it back to lift the soil and bulbs, rather than stabbing directly at the bulb.
3. Lift the Plants. Gently grasp the plant near its base and lift the entire bulb out. If the stems break, don’t worry—just carefully dig the bulb out by hand to avoid bruising it.
4. Handle with Care. Bruised or damaged bulbs won’t store long. Treat them gently, like eggs. Avoid washing them with water, as this invites rot.
5. Brush Off Soil. Gently remove the large clumps of soil with your hands. A soft brush can help with stubborn dirt. Leave the roots and stems intact for now.
The Essential Next Step: Curing Your Harvest
Harvesting isn’t the finish line. Curing is the process that prepares your garlic for storage by slowly drying the outer layers and neck.
* Bundle 4-6 plants together by their stems and hang them upside down.
* Or, lay them in a single layer on a rack, screen, or slatted table.
* Find the perfect spot: A warm, dry, dark, and well-ventilated area is key. A garage, covered porch, shed, or well-ventilated basement often works well.
* Let them cure for 3-6 weeks. The process is done when the stems are completely dry and brittle, the roots are hard and shriveled, and the outer skin is papery. You should be able to cut the stem without any moisture showing.
Trimming and Storing for Longevity
After curing, your garlic is ready for its final preparation.
* Trim the roots close to the bulb base with sharp pruners.
* Trim the stems. For softneck garlic, you can leave long stems for braiding. For hardnecks or general storage, cut the stem to about 1-2 inches above the bulb.
* Select the best bulbs for storage, setting aside any that are damaged for immediate use.
* Store in a cool, dark, dry place. Ideal conditions are around 50-60°F with moderate humidity. A pantry, cellar, or unheated spare room is perfect. Avoid the refrigerator, as cold temperatures can encourage sprouting.
Common Harvesting Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can slip up. Here’s what to watch for:
* Relying solely on the calendar. Your local climate and weather in a given year are more important than a specific date.
* Overwatering near harvest time. Taper off watering in the last few weeks to allow the bulbs to firm up and the wrappers to develop.
* Leaving harvested bulbs in the sun. Freshly dug garlic can get sunscald, which affects flavor and storage. Get them to your curing spot promptly.
* Skipping the curing process. This step is non-negotiable for storage-quality garlic.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I pick garlic too early?
A: Yes, and it’s a common error. Early-picked garlic has thin skins and cloves that haven’t fully divided. It will not cure properly and will shrivel up quickly in storage. It’s better to be a little late than far too early.
Q: What happens if I harvest garlic late?
A: Late-harvested garlic often has split bulbs and degraded wrappers. The cloves may be exposed to soil and rot, and the entire bulb won’t store for more than a few weeks. The flavor can also be compromised.
Q: How long does cured garlic last?
A: Properly cured and stored hardneck garlic can last 4-6 months. Softneck varieties, especially if braided, often store for 9-12 months under ideal conditions.
Q: Should I stop watering before the harvest?
A: Absolutely. Ease off watering about 2-3 weeks before your expected harvest date. This helps the soil dry out and encourages the bulbs to from their final protective layers.
Q: Can I eat garlic right after picking?
A: You can! It’s called “fresh” or “green” garlic. The flavor is milder and juicier, and the skins won’t be fully developed. It doesn’t need to be cured for immediate use, but it won’t keep for more than a week or two like this.
Mastering the art of when to pick garlic comes with practice. Each season, you’ll become more attuned to your plants subtle signals. By focusing on the leaf count, doing the bulb test, and providing a proper cure, you’ll be rewarded with a bounty of homegrown garlic that flavors your meals for many months to come. There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of pulling a perfectly ripe bulb from your own garden soil.