When To Divide Strawberry Plants

Knowing when to divide strawberry plants is the key to keeping your patch productive and healthy for years. If you get the timing right, you give your plants the best chance to thrive and produce a great harvest.

Strawberries are perennials, but they don’t last forever in one spot. Over time, the original “mother” plant sends out runners that root and become new “daughter” plants. This creates a dense mat that competes for water, light, and nutrients. The result? Smaller berries and a higher risk of disease. Dividing and replanting resets the clock, giving you vigorous new plants. Let’s look at the best times to do this important task.

The optimal time for dividing depends largely on your climate and the type of strawberry you’re growing. There are two main windows that gardeners aim for.

Early Spring Division

This is often the preferred method, especially in colder climates. You divide the plants just as they are coming out of dormancy and beginning to show new growth.

Timing: As soon as the ground is workable and new green leaves start to appear.
Advantage: The plants have the entire growing season ahead to establish strong roots before winter. They’ll focus energy on root and leaf development, which can lead to a good harvest the following year.
Disadvantage: You will typically sacrifice the fruit crop for the current year. The plant’s energy goes to establishing itself, not making berries.

Late Summer to Early Fall Division

This window is excellent for gardeners in milder regions or those with milder winters. The goal is to get plants settled in well before the first hard frost.

Timing: About 4-6 weeks before your first expected fall frost. This is crucial—the plants need time to root.
Advantage: The soil is warm, which promotes root growth. Cooler air temperatures reduce stress on the foliage. These plants will often produce a nice crop the very next spring.
Disadvantage: If done too late, plants won’t establish and can heave out of the ground or die over winter. They also need consistent watering during a sometimes-dry season.

Avoid dividing in the peak of summer heat or in the dead of winter. High heat causes extreme transplant shock, while frozen or waterlogged soil damages the delicate roots.

Signs Your Plants Need Dividing

Don’t just rely on the calendar. Your plants will show you when they’re ready. Look for these signs:

The center of the original plant looks woody, dead, or unproductive.
The bed has become a crowded mat, with leaves competing for space.
Berry production has noticeably declined, and fruits are smaller.
The plants seem more susceptible to leaf diseases like mildew or leaf spot.

Types of Strawberries and Division

Your variety influences your strategy. June-bearing strawberries produce one large crop in early summer. They send out lots of runners. Dividing every 2-3 years is essential for them.

Everbearing and day-neutral types produce berries throughout the season. They produce fewer runners. You may not need to divide them as often, perhaps every 3-4 years. Instead, you might just remove old mother plants and thin out daughters.

How to Divide Strawberry Plants: A Step-by-Step Guide

Once you’ve picked your time, follow these steps for success. Gather a garden fork, a sharp knife or pruners, compost, and a bucket of water before you start.

Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Site

Never dig up plants first! Have their new home ready. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil that hasn’t grown strawberries, tomatoes, or peppers in the last 3 years (to avoid disease).

Work in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure. This improves drainage and fertility. Having the site prepped means your divisions spend minimal time out of the ground.

Step 2: Carefully Dig Up the Mother Plant

Use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil in a wide circle around the plant cluster you want to divide. Try to lift the entire network of roots and attached daughter plants with as much soil intact as possible. Shake off excess soil gently so you can see the root structure.

Step 3: Separate the Plants

This is where your sharp tool comes in. You’ll see the older, woody central crown (the mother) and the younger, vigorous daughter plants that have rooted from runners.

Identify the healthiest, greenest daughter plants with their own robust roots. These are your best candidates for replanting.
Cut the runner stem connecting them to the mother plant or to each other.
You can often gently pull or tease apart younger plants with your fingers if the roots aren’t too tangled.

Discard the old, woody center of the mother plant. Also discard any daughters that look weak, have small root systems, or show signs of disease.

Step 4: Trim and Prepare the Divisions

Trim any long, broken, or damaged roots. This encourages new feeder root growth. Also, trim back about half of the foliage. This reduces water loss while the plant is trying to establish new roots.

Some gardeners like to dip the roots in a weak water-and-compost tea mixture to give them a boost, but it’s not strictly nessecary.

Step 5: Replant Immediately

Plant the divisions at the correct depth. This is critical! The soil line should be at the middle of the crown—not covering the growing point (the central buds), and not leaving the top roots exposed.

Space plants about 12-18 inches apart in rows that are 3-4 feet apart. This gives them room to spread without overcrowding to quickly. Water them in thoroughly right after planting to settle the soil around the roots.

Aftercare for Divided Strawberries

Your job isn’t done after planting. Proper aftercare ensures they recover from transplant shock and grow strong.

Watering

Consistent moisture is the most important factor for the first few weeks. Water deeply every other day if it doesn’t rain, keeping the soil consistently moist but not soggy. After they show steady new growth, you can reduce to a deep weekly watering.

Mulching

Apply a 2-3 inch layer of straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves around the plants. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the developing berries clean. For fall-planted divisions, mulch also provides winter protection once the ground has frozen.

Fertilizing

Go easy on fertilizer at planting time. The compost you added is enough. You can apply a balanced organic fertilizer or a side-dressing of compost about a month after planting, once they are actively growing. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

First Year Expectations

For spring divisions, pinch off any flower buds that appear in the first season. This directs all energy to root and plant development. For fall divisions, you may allow a spring crop, but be prepared to sacrifice it if the plant still looks small.

Weed diligently, as young plants don’t compete well. Watch for slugs and snails, who love tender new strawberry leaves.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for:

Dividing at the wrong time: Too hot, too cold, or too late in fall are the main culprits for failure.
Planting too deep or too shallow: Both can kill the plant. The crown must be at soil level.
Using dull tools: A clean cut heals faster than a ragged tear, reducing disease risk.
Keeping the old mother plant: It’s past its prime. Replant only the young, vigorous daughters.
Neglecting aftercare: Inconsistent watering is the biggest reason new divisions fail.
Not rotating the bed: Replanting in the same spot invites soil-borne diseases to attack your new plants.

FAQ: Dividing Strawberry Plants

Can you divide strawberry plants in the fall?

Yes, fall division is excellent in many climates. Ensure you do it at least 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost so roots can establish. Mulch well after the ground freezes for winter protection.

How often should you split strawberry plants?

For optimal growth and fruit production, plan to divide and renew your strawberry bed every 2 to 3 years. June-bearing types need it more frequently than everbearing varieties.

What is the best month to transplant strawberries?

This varies by region. In cold climates, early spring (March-April) is best. In mild climates, early fall (September-October) is often ideal. The goal is to avoid extreme temperatures.

Can I just let strawberry runners root?

You can, but if you don’t thin and manage them, the bed becomes overcrowded within a couple seasons. It’s better to guide runners to root in specific spots or onto pots, then sever and move them to a fresh bed.

Do divided strawberries fruit the first year?

Spring-divided plants usually will not produce a worthwhile crop in their first summer. Fall-divided plants often will produce a normal crop the following spring, as they have more time to establish before fruiting season.

Dividing your strawberry plants might seem like a lot of work, but it’s a simple process that pays off. With good timing and careful handling, you’ll maintain a healthy, productive patch that gives you sweet berries season after season. A little effort every few years ensures your strawberries never lose their vigor.