When Is The Best Time To Plant Garlic

If you want a great harvest of garlic, timing is everything. Knowing when is the best time to plant garlic is the single most important factor for success.

Get it right, and you’ll be rewarded with large, flavorful bulbs. Plant at the wrong time, and you might end up with disappointingly small cloves or plants that don’t survive the winter. This guide will walk you through the simple calendar rules and local signs to follow.

For most gardeners, the simple answer is in the fall. Planting in autumn allows the garlic to develop roots before the ground freezes. The cloves then go through a necessary cold period, called vernalization, which triggers them to form bulbs the following summer.

Spring planting is possible, but fall planting consistently produces larger, healthier bulbs. Here’s how to narrow down the perfect window in your area.

The Fall Planting Window

Your goal is to get cloves in the ground after the heat of summer has passed, but well before the ground is frozen solid. A good rule of thumb is to plant 4-6 weeks before your area’s first hard frost date.

In Northern Climates (Zones 0-5): Plant from late September to mid-October. The cold comes early, so don’t delay.
In Moderate Climates (Zones 6-7): Aim for mid-October through early November. This is often considered the prime garlic belt.
In Warmer Climates (Zones 8-9): Plant from late October through December. You may need to pre-chill your bulbs in the fridge for 8-10 weeks before planting.
In Very Warm Climates (Zone 10+): Garlic is often planted in late winter (January-February) as an annual, but results can vary.

You can find your first frost date by searching online or asking at a local nursery. The key is to let the garlic establish roots, but not to allow so much time that it sends up significant green growth above the soil before winter.

Signs in Your Garden

Besides the calendar, nature gives you clues. Many experienced gardeners use these natural markers:

Plant after the first light frost has touched other plants.
A good signal is when nighttime temperatures consistently stay in the 40s and 50s (°F).
Some folks swear by planting after the autumn equinox but before Halloween.

If you miss the ideal window, you can still plant until the ground is workable. Later-planted cloves may not develop roots as well and could yield slightly smaller bulbs, but it’s usually better to plant late than not at all.

What About Spring Planting?

If you forgot to plant in fall or recieved bulbs too late, you can plant in spring. The results, however, will be different.

Timing: Plant as early as the soil can be worked, usually 4-6 weeks before your last spring frost date.
The Catch: Spring-planted garlic misses the long cold period. It often produces a single large clove (called a “round”) instead of a segmented bulb, or the bulbs may be significantly smaller.
Tip: To mimic winter, place your garlic bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator for at least 8 weeks before spring planting. This helps some.

Choosing and Preparing Your Garlic

Don’t plant garlic from the grocery store. It’s often treated to prevent sprouting and may not be suited to your climate. Buy “seed garlic” from a reputable garden center or online supplier.

There are two main types:

Hardneck Garlic: Prefers colder winters. It produces a stiff central stalk (a scape) and has complex, robust flavor. Fewer, larger cloves per bulb.
Softneck Garlic: Better for warmer winters. It has a flexible stalk, is great for braiding, and stores longer. More cloves per bulb, but they are smaller.

Break the bulb into individual cloves just before planting. Keep the papery skin on each clove. Select the largest, healthiest cloves for planting—the bigger the clove, the bigger the potential bulb. You can use the small ones for cooking.

Preparing the Soil

Garlic thrives in loose, fertile soil with excelent drainage. It hates wet, soggy feet. Follow these steps:

Choose a spot that gets full sun.
Loosen the soil to a depth of at least 8 inches.
Mix in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure. A balanced organic fertilizer worked into the soil is also beneficial.
Raised beds are an excellent option if your soil drains poorly.

The Planting Process Step-by-Step

Space Your Cloves: Plant cloves pointy end up, root side down. Space them 4-6 inches apart in rows that are 12-18 inches apart.
Plant at the Right Depth: A common mistake is planting too shallow. In most soils, plant cloves 2-3 inches deep. In very cold zones, go 3-4 inches deep for extra winter protection.
Cover and Mulch: Cover the cloves with soil and pat it down gently. Then, apply a thick layer (4-6 inches) of loose mulch like straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings. This insulates the soil, prevents frost heave, and suppresses weeds.
Water In: Give the bed a good watering to settle the soil around the cloves.

After that, you can basicly forget about them until spring. The mulch will do most of the work.

Care Through the Seasons

Spring: As the weather warms, green shoots will appear. Pull back the mulch slightly. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer when plants are about a foot tall.

Early Summer (for Hardnecks): Curly scapes will appear. Cut them off when they make one full loop. This directs the plant’s energy into the bulb, making it larger. And the scapes are a delicious bonus harvest!

Watering: Water regularly through spring and early summer. In the last few weeks before harvest, stop watering to allow the bulbs to cure and the outer wrappers to dry.

Knowing When to Harvest

Harvest time is usually mid-summer. Watch for these signs:

The bottom 3-4 leaves turn yellow or brown, while the top 5-6 leaves are still green.
The plant begins to look a bit “tired” and starts to fall over.

Don’t wait for all the leaves to die back. If you harvest to late, the bulb wrappers may have degraded, and the cloves might have started to separate, reducing storage life.

Gently loosen the soil with a fork and lift the bulbs. Brush off excess soil, but don’t wash them. Cure them in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place for 3-4 weeks. After curing, trim the roots and cut the stalks, leaving an inch on softnecks for braiding.

FAQ

Can I plant garlic from the supermarket?

It’s not recommended. Store-bought garlic is often from varieties suited for different climates and may be treated with growth inhibitors. For best results, buy certified seed garlic.

What is the latest you can plant garlic?

You can plant until the ground is frozen. Cloves planted very late in fall may not establish roots and are more suseptible to frost heave. If you’re very late, consider spring planting with pre-chilled bulbs.

Should I fertilize my garlic?

Yes. Garlic is a heavy feeder. Rich soil at planting and a nitrogen boost in spring are key for large bulbs. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers later in the season, as they can hinder bulb formation.

Why did my garlic produce small bulbs?

Small bulbs can result from planting too late in fall, planting too shallow, using small cloves, insufficient watering in spring, or a lack of nutrients in the soil. Poor soil drainage can also cause problems.

Can I grow garlic in pots?

Absolutely. Choose a deep pot (at least 12 inches) with excellent drainage. Use a quality potting mix and follow the same planting depths. Pots may need extra winter protection in cold climates as they freeze faster than the ground.

By following these simple timing and planting guidelines, you’ll set your garlic crop up for its best possible harvest. The wait from fall to summer is long, but the reward of homegrown garlic is well worth it.