If you’re a gardener in Missouri, you likely have one important question on your mind: when do you plant garlic in Missouri? Getting the timing right is the single most important step for a successful harvest. This guide will walk you through the best time for planting and everything else you need to know to grow fantastic garlic in our state.
Missouri’s climate, with its cold winters and hot summers, is actually perfect for garlic. Garlic needs a period of cold to develop properly, a process called vernalization. Planting at the correct time allows the cloves to establish roots before the ground freezes, then they sit dormant over winter, ready to explode with growth in spring.
When Do You Plant Garlic In Missouri – Best Time For Planting
The golden rule for Missouri garlic planting is simple: plant in the fall. The exact window can shift a bit depending on where you live in the state and the current weather patterns.
For most of Missouri, the ideal time is from mid-October through mid-November. A good target is about 2-4 weeks after the first fall frost and 2-3 weeks before the ground is expected to freeze solid.
Here’s a quick regional breakdown:
- Northern Missouri: Aim for early to mid-October.
- Central Missouri (including Columbia and Jefferson City): Mid-October to early November is perfect.
- Southern Missouri: You can often plant from late October through mid-November.
The goal is to get the cloves in the ground so they have time to grow roots, but not so much time that they send up green shoots above the soil line before winter. If you see a little green growth in late fall, don’t panic. It usually survives just fine.
Choosing the Right Garlic for Missouri Gardens
Not all garlic is the same. There are two main types, and your choice affects flavor and storage life.
- Hardneck Garlic: This type thrives in colder climates and is highly recommended for Missouri. It produces a hard central stalk called a scape, which you can harvest and eat. Hardneck varieties have complex flavors, often with more heat, and have larger, easier-to-peel cloves. They don’t store quite as long as softneck, but they are well-suited to our winters. Popular varieties include ‘German Extra Hardy’, ‘Music’, and ‘Chesnok Red’.
- Softneck Garlic: Better adapted to milder winters, softneck garlic is what you typically find in grocery stores. It has a softer stalk, is excellent for braiding, and stores for a very long time. It tends to have a milder flavor. If you’re in southern Missouri, softneck varieties like ‘California Early’ or ‘Inchelium Red’ can do very well.
Always buy your planting garlic from a reputable seed supplier or local nursery. Do not plant garlic from the grocery store, as it is often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry soil-borne diseases.
Preparing Your Garden Bed for Garlic
Garlic grows best in loose, fertile, and well-drained soil. It hates wet, soggy feet, which can cause the bulbs to rot.
Follow these steps to prepare:
- Choose a Sunny Spot: Select a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of full sun each day.
- Amend the Soil: Work in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure a few weeks before planting. This improves drainage and fertility.
- Check the pH: Garlic prefers a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0. A simple soil test can tell you if you need to add lime to raise the pH or sulfur to lower it.
- Loosen the Soil: Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of at least 8-10 inches. Remove any weeds or rocks.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Once your bed is ready and the planting window has arrived, it’s time to get those cloves in the ground.
- Break the Bulb: Gently break apart your garlic bulb into individual cloves. Do this just before planting to keep the basal plate (the spot where roots emerge) intact. Keep the papery skin on each clove.
- Select the Best Cloves: Plant only the largest, healthiest-looking cloves. The size of the clove directly influences the size of the harvested bulb. You can use smaller cloves for cooking.
- Plant Cloves Root-Side Down: Plant each clove pointed end up, root side down. The pointed tip is where the shoot will emerge from.
- Depth and Spacing: Plant cloves 2 inches deep. Space them 4-6 inches apart in rows that are 12-18 inches apart.
- Cover and Mulch: Cover the cloves with soil and pat it down gently. Then, apply a 4-6 inch layer of loose mulch like straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings. This mulch is crucial—it insulates the soil, prevents frost heave, suppresses weeds, and retains moisture.
Caring for Your Garlic Through the Seasons
After planting, your work is mostly done until spring. The mulch will protect the cloves over winter.
In early spring, you’ll see green shoots poking through the mulch. Here’s what to do next:
- Spring Fertilizing: When growth resumes, feed your garlic with a high-nitrogen fertilizer, like blood meal or a balanced organic fertilizer. Side-dress along the rows and water it in.
- Watering: Garlic needs consistent moisture, especially during bulb formation in mid to late spring. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week if rainfall is insufficient. Reduce watering in the last few weeks before harvest to let the bulbs cure in the ground.
- Weeding: Keep the bed weed-free, as garlic doesn’t compete well for nutrients. The mulch will help alot with this.
- Harvest Scapes: If you planted hardneck garlic, a curly flower stalk called a scape will appear in late spring. Cut it off when it makes one or two loops. This directs the plant’s energy back into growing a larger bulb. And scapes are delicious to eat!
Knowing When to Harvest and How to Cure
Harvest time in Missouri is typically late June through July. Garlic does not tell you it’s ready by flowering. Instead, watch the leaves.
When the bottom 3-4 leaves have turned brown, but the top 5-6 leaves are still green, it’s time to test. Gently dig up one bulb. If the cloves are well-formed and fill out the skin, it’s harvest time.
To harvest:
- Use a garden fork to loosen the soil beside the bulbs, then lift them out. Avoid pulling by the stem.
- Brush off excess soil gently; do not wash the bulbs.
- Cure the Garlic: This step is essential for long storage. Hang the whole plants in bunches or lay them out in a single layer in a warm, dry, dark, and well-ventilated place (like a garage or shed) for 3-4 weeks.
- Once the necks are completely dry and the outer skin is papery, trim the roots and cut the stems. Your garlic is now ready to store in a cool, dark place.
Common Problems and Solutions
Garlic is relatively pest-resistant but a few issues can pop up.
- White Rot: A fungal disease that causes yellowing leaves and a white, fluffy mold on the bulb base. Prevention is key—practice crop rotation and avoid planting garlic in the same spot for at least 3 years.
- Onion Thrips: Tiny insects that cause silvery streaks on leaves. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap can help manage them.
- Poorly Sized Bulbs: This is usually caused by planting too late in the fall, not enough sun, or inadequate spring nutrition. Sticking to the fall planting schedule is the best fix.
FAQ: Planting Garlic in Missouri
Can I plant garlic in the spring in Missouri?
You can, but it’s not ideal. Spring-planted garlic misses the crucial winter chilling period. Bulbs will be much smaller, often just a single round clove (called a “round”). Fall planting is always recommended.
What if I miss the fall planting window?
If the ground isn’t frozen, you can still plant. Later-planted cloves may have less root establishment, so add extra mulch for insulation. Your harvest might be slightly smaller, but it’s worth a try.
How do I save my own garlic for planting next year?
At harvest, set aside your largest, healthiest bulbs. Store them as you normally would, then use them as your seed garlic in the fall. Over time, this selects for garlic that performs well in your specific garden conditions.
Can I grow garlic in containers?
Yes! Choose a deep pot (at least 12 inches) with excellent drainage. Use a high-quality potting mix and follow the same planting depth and spacing guidelines. Containers may need extra winter protection, like moving them to an unheated garage.
Following these simple steps will set you up for a bountiful garlic harvest. The key is respecting the fall planting schedule, giving the plants the right conditions, and being patient while they do their work over the winter. There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of pulling up your own homegrown garlic bulbs next summer.