Knowing when do i harvest potatoes is the key to a successful crop. Getting the timing right means you get more spuds, they store better, and they taste fantastic. This guide will walk you through the simple signs to look for, so you can dig up your potatoes at the perfect moment for a bountiful yield.
Potatoes are patient growers, and they give you clear signals. You just need to know what to watch for. Whether you want tender new potatoes or sturdy storage potatoes, the process starts with understanding their growth stages.
When Do I Harvest Potatoes
There isn’t one single harvest day. The best time depends on what type of potato you want. The two main categories are “new” potatoes and “maincrop” potatoes for storage.
New Potatoes: These are the young, tender, thin-skinned treats. They are harvested early for their wonderful flavor and texture.
Maincrop Potatoes: These are left in the ground longer to fully mature. They develop thick skins for long-term storage through winter.
The Top Signs Your Potatoes Are Ready
Your plants will tell you when they’re getting ready. Here are the visual clues to monitor in your garden.
1. Flowering is a Early Hint.
When your potato plants flower, it’s a signal that tubers are starting to form underground. This is not the time to harvest, but it’s a great reminder to start paying closer attention. For new potatoes, you can start checking about 2-3 weeks after flowering begins.
2. Foliage Tells the Main Story.
The most reliable sign for maincrop potatoes is the death of the foliage. The leaves and stems will turn yellow, then brown, and finally die back completely. This means the plant has finished its work and the potatoes skins are setting for storage.
3. Do the “Skin Set” Test.
Gently dig around the edge of a plant and rub your finger against a potato. If the skin rubs off easily, they need more time. If the skin is firm and doesn’t peel, the skins have “set.” This is crucial for storage potatoes.
Step-by-Step Harvesting for Perfect Potatoes
Follow these steps to ensure you don’t damage your crop and get every last potato.
Step 1: Choose the Right Day.
Pick a dry day when the soil is slightly moist, not soggy or hard-baked. Wet soil can promote disease, and very dry soil is harder to work with.
Step 2: Cut Back Foliage (For Mature Potatoes).
If the haulms (stems) haven’t completely died, cut them down about 2 weeks before you plan to harvest. This helps toughen the skins for storage.
Step 3: Use the Right Tool.
A digging fork, or “spading fork,” is better than a shovel. It’s less likely to slice through potatoes. Insert the fork well away from the base of the plant and gently lift the soil.
Step 4: Dig Carefully.
Start from the outside of the plant mound and work inward. Loosen the soil and lift it, then use your hands to sift through the soil and find the potatoes. Be gentle to avoid bruising or piercing them.
Step 5: Handle with Care.
Place harvested potatoes into a bucket or basket gently. Dropping them can cause internal bruising that shows up later.
Curing and Storing Your Bounty
What you do after harvest is just as important for that bountiful yield.
For New Potatoes:
Eat them soon! Their thin skins mean they don’t store well. Just brush off the soil and enjoy them within a few days.
For Maincrop Storage Potatoes:
1. Cure: Lay the unwashed potatoes in a single layer in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place (about 60-65°F) for 10-14 days. This allows minor scratches to heal and the skins to harden further.
2. Sort: After curing, check each potato. Any that are damaged, cut, or have soft spots should be set aside to eat first. Only perfect, blemish-free potatoes should go into long-term storage.
3. Store: Place the sorted potatoes in a breathable container like a burlap sack, cardboard box, or paper bag. Store them in complete darkness at 40-45°F with moderate humidity. A basement or root cellar is ideal. Never store potatoes in the refrigerator, as it turns the starch to sugar.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
A few simple errors can reduce your yield or ruin your storage crop.
* Harvesting Too Early: You’ll get very small potatoes if you don’t wait for the plant to finish growing.
* Harvesting Too Late: Potatoes left in warm, wet ground for to long can start to rot or resprout.
* Using a Shovel: A shovel blade is much more likely to cut potatoes in half compared to a fork.
* Skipping the Curing Process: This step is essential for storage potatoes to last through the winter without shriveling or rotting.
* Storing in Light: Exposed potatoes will turn green and produce a bitter, toxic substance called solanine. Always keep them in total darkness.
FAQ: Your Potato Harvest Questions Answered
Q: Can I harvest potatoes before the plant dies?
A: Absolutely! For new potatoes, you can harvest as soon as the tubers are big enough to eat, usually during or soon after flowering. Just harvest gently from the edges of the plant.
Q: How long after planting are potatoes ready?
A: It varies by variety. “Early” varieties can be ready in 70-90 days. “Mid-season” take 90-110 days. “Late” or maincrop varieties need 110-135 days. Always check your seed packet for the “days to maturity.”
Q: What if my potato plants never flowered?
A: Some varieties don’t flower much, and hot weather can also prevent it. Don’t worry. Rely on the foliage die-back and the days-to-maturity estimate as your main guides instead.
Q: My potatoes are green. Are they safe to eat?
A: No. Green skin indicates the presence of solanine, which is toxic. Cut away and discard any green portions thoroughly. If the potato is mostly green, it’s safest to throw the whole thing out.
Q: Can I leave potatoes in the ground over winter?
A: In most climates, no. Cold, wet soil will cause them to rot. They are also vulnerable to pests. It’s best to harvest and store them properly before the first hard frost.
Knowing exactly when do i harvest potatoes takes the guesswork out of gardening. By watching for the die-back, doing the skin test, and handling your crop with care, you’ll maximize what you get from each plant. Remember, the final step of proper curing and storage protects your bountiful yield for months to come, filling your kitchen with homegrown goodness long after the garden is asleep.