Whats Eating My Kale

You’ve worked hard on your kale, and now something is feasting on the leaves before you get the chance. Figuring out what’s eating your kale is the first step to taking back your garden. This guide will help you identify the culprits and give you effective pest control solutions for your plants.

We’ll cover everything from tiny bugs to larger animals. You’ll learn how to spot the damage, choose the right fix, and prevent problems from coming back.

Kale leaves are a favorite snack for many garden pests. The type of damage you see is a big clue. Here’s how to play garden detective and figure out who’s responsible.

Common Kale Pests and Their Telltale Signs

Look closely at the leaves, top and bottom. The evidence is usually right there.

Cabbage Worms (White Cabbage Butterfly): These are the most common culprits. You’ll see irregular holes in the middle of leaves, not just the edges. Their pale green caterpillars blend in perfectly. Look for tiny greenish-yellow poop pellets.
Cabbage Loopers: They move like inchworms, arching their backs. They create larger, ragged holes and often start eating from the leaf’s outer edge inward.
Aphids: These tiny green or black bugs cluster on stems and the undersides of leaves. Leaves may curl, wilt, or feel sticky from their “honeydew” secretion.
Flea Beetles: They leave a distinctive “shot-hole” pattern—lots of tiny, shothole-like pits in the leaves, especially on young plants.
Slugs and Snails: They feed at night, leaving large, ragged holes and slimy silver trails on and around the plants.
Harlequin Bugs: These striking black-and-red bugs suck plant juices, causing white or yellow blotchy patches that turn brittle.

Less Common but Troublesome Pests

Sometimes, the problem isn’t an insect. Larger animals can wreck a kale patch fast.

Cutworms: They sever young seedlings at the base overnight. If you find a healthy young plant toppled over, check the soil nearby for a grayish, curled-up caterpillar.
Birds: Sparrows and others can peck at leaves, creating torn edges. They sometimes go for the young, tender centers of the plants.
Deer and Rabbits: Deer leave a clean, torn bite on leaves and can eat whole plants. Rabbits make a clean, angled cut, almost like someone used scissors on lower leaves and stems.

Immediate Action: What to Do Right Now

Once you spot damage, act quickly to stop it from spreading.

Handpick: For larger pests like cabbage worms, loopers, and harlequin bugs, put on some gloves and pick them off. Drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Do this in the morning or evening.
Spray with Water: A strong jet of water from your hose can knock aphids and flea beetles off plants. This often solves minor infestations.
Apply a Barrier: For slugs and snails, sprinkle a ring of diatomaceous earth or crushed eggshells around the base of plants. Reapply after rain.
Remove Badly Damaged Leaves: Take off leaves that are overwhelmingly eaten or covered in pests. This removes the pest’s food source and helps the plant focus energy on new growth.

Long-Term Pest Control Solutions for Kale

Stopping pests for good requires a mix of strategies. The goal is to create a healthy garden ecosystem that’s resilient.

Physical Barriers and Row Covers

This is one of the most effective methods. Floating row covers are lightweight fabrics placed directly over your plants.

They block insects from landing and laying eggs.
Install them right after planting your kale and secure the edges well with soil or pins.
Remember to remove them briefly if your kale needs insect pollination (though kale is mainly grown for its leaves).

Organic Sprays and Treatments

When you need a stronger intervention, these options are effective and garden-friendly.

Insecticidal Soap: Great for soft-bodied insects like aphids. It must contact the pest directly. Spray in the cooler parts of the day.
Neem Oil: A natural fungicide and insecticide. It disrupts the life cycle of pests like cabbage worms and works as a repellent. Follow the label instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that is toxic to caterpillars (cabbage worms, loopers) when they eat it. It is harmless to people, pets, and beneficial insects.

Encourage Beneficial Insects

Not all bugs are bad. Invite the good guys to do the pest control for you.

Plant flowers like sweet alyssum, marigolds, and dill near your kale to attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.
These beneficial insects eat aphids and caterpillar eggs.
A diverse garden is a healthy garden that can better handle a few pests.

Smart Garden Practices

How you care for your garden makes a huge difference.

Crop Rotation: Don’t plant kale or other brassicas (cabbage, broccoli) in the same spot year after year. This breaks pest life cycles.
Clean Up: Remove plant debris at the end of the season where pests can overwinter.
Healthy Soil: Strong plants from nutrient-rich soil are more resistant to pest damage. Add compost regularly.
Companion Planting: Some plants repel pests. Try planting kale near herbs like mint, dill, or rosemary, or with onions and garlic.

Preventing Specific Pest Problems

Some pests need a targeted approach. Here’s how to handle the usual suspects.

Stopping Cabbage Worms and Loopers

These are the top kale pests. A combined approach works best.

Use row covers from the start.
Check leaves weekly for eggs (tiny yellow dots) on the undersides and crush them.
Apply Bt as soon as you see small caterpillars. It’s very effective against them.

Controlling Aphid Infestations

Aphids reproduce quickly, but they are also fragile.

The water spray method is often enough.
Introduce ladybugs to your garden—you can even buy them online.
If needed, use a insecticidal soap spray, making sure to coat the undersides of leaves.

Deterring Larger Animals

For deer and rabbits, barriers and repellents are key.

A physical fence is the only surefire way to stop deer. It needs to be at least 8 feet tall.
For rabbits, a chicken wire fence that’s buried a few inches into the ground and stands about 2-3 feet high can help.
Homemade repellent sprays with garlic, eggs, or hot pepper can offer temporary protection but need frequent reapplication after rain.

FAQs About Kale Pests

Q: What is making tiny holes in all my kale leaves?
A: This is almost certainly flea beetles. They create a distinctive “shotgun” pattern of damage. Young plants are most at risk. Use row covers or apply a light dusting of diatomaceous earth.

Q: Are holes in kale leaves safe to eat?
A: Yes, you can still eat the undamaged parts of the leaf. Just thoroughly wash the kale to remove any pests or their residue. Simply cut away the damaged sections.

Q: How do I stop bugs from eating my kale naturally?
A> Start with physical barriers like row covers. Encourage beneficial insects by planting flowers. Handpick larger pests. Use organic sprays like Bt or neem oil as a last resort, not a first step.

Q: What can I spray on my kale for bugs?
A> For immediate, organic control, consider a spray of insecticidal soap for aphids, neem oil for a broad range of pests, or Bt specifically for caterpillars. Always test a small area first and spray in the early morning or late evening.

Q: Why do my kale plants have sticky leaves?
A: Sticky leaves are a sign of aphids or another sap-sucking insect. The stickiness is “honeydew,” a sugary waste product they excrete. It can sometimes lead to sooty mold. Control the aphids, and the stickiness will stop.

Dealing with pests is a normal part of gardening. The key is regular observation—checking your plants often—so you can catch problems early. By combining identification, quick action, and long-term prevention strategies, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of healthy, beautiful kale. Your garden will be stronger for it, and you’ll spend less time worrying about pests each season.