What To Plant After Potatoes

Knowing what to plant after potatoes is one of the smartest moves you can make for your garden’s health. This simple decision sets the stage for a thriving, productive plot for the rest of the season and beyond.

Potatoes are heavy feeders. They take a lot of nutrients from the soil, especially nitrogen and potassium. If you just leave the ground empty or plant the same thing again, you’ll invite pests and diseases.

But with the right follow-up plants, you can actually rebuild your soil. You can break pest cycles and get a fantastic harvest. Let’s look at how to make the most of your garden space after you dig up those spuds.

This list focuses on plants that will thrive in the conditions potatoes leave behind. They help restore balance to your garden ecosystem.

Best Vegetable Options for Succession Planting

These vegetables are excellent choices to go into the ground right after your potato harvest. They have different nutrient needs and growth habits.

Beans and Peas (Legumes): These are the top choice. Their roots work with bacteria to pull nitrogen from the air and fix it into the soil. This directly replenishes the nitrogen that the potatoes used up. Both bush beans and pole beans are great fast-growing options.
Leafy Greens: Plants like spinach, Swiss chard, kale, and lettuce have moderate nitrogen needs that the post-potato soil can often still meet. They grow quickly, giving you a fast harvest before frost.
Brassicas (Cabbage Family): This includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts. They are heavy feeders but benefit from the different pest and disease profile. Just be sure to add some compost before planting them.
Root Vegetables: Consider carrots, beets, or turnips. They explore different soil depths than potatoes did. They also don’t share many major diseases, making them a safe rotational crop.

Beneficial Cover Crops to Rebuild Soil

If you’re not ready to plant another vegetable crop right away, sowing a cover crop is a brilliant strategy. It’s like giving your soil a healing blanket.

Clover (Crimson or White): A legume cover crop that adds nitrogen. It also suppresses weeds and attracts pollinators if you let it flower.
Buckwheat: This is a superstar. It grows incredibly fast, smothering weeds. Its flowers are great for bees, and when you turn it under, it adds organic matter to the soil.
Annual Ryegrass: Develops a deep, fibrous root system that helps break up soil and prevent erosion over winter.
Winter Rye: Planted in late summer or fall, it grows vigorously, adds organic matter, and its roots help with soil structure.

Herbs and Flowers for Companion Benefits

Don’t overlook the power of herbs and flowers. They bring in helpful insects and can improve overall garden health.

Calendula: Easy to grow from seed. Its roots are believed to help with soil health, and it can self-seed for future seasons.
Borage: Another excellent soil improver that attracts pollinators and predatory insects. The leaves can be used as mulch.
Dill or Cilantro: These herbs attract beneficial insects that prey on common garden pests. They grow relatively fast from seed.

What You Should Avoid Planting

Some plants are particularly bad choices to follow potatoes. They share diseases or have similar weaknesses.

Other Nightshades: This is the most important rule. Do not plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, or more potatoes in the same spot. They are all in the same plant family and share devastating diseases like blight and common pests like wireworms.
Strawberries: They are susceptible to similar verticillium wilt and can suffer from the same nematode problems.
Raspberries: Also prone to some of the same soil-borne diseases that affect potatoes, leading to poor plant health.

The Science Behind Crop Rotation

Rotating crops isn’t just an old wives’ tale. It’s a core principle of sustainable gardening. Here’s why it works so well.

Nutrient Balancing Act

Different plants have different dietary preferences. Potatoes are greedy for potassium and nitrogen. Legumes, like beans, actually add nitrogen back. By rotating crops, you prevent the soil from becoming depleted of any single nutrient.

Pest and Disease Disruption

Many pests and diseases are host-specific. The Colorado potato beetle larvae, for example, need potato leaves to survive. If you plant beans instead, the beetle’s life cycle is broken. Soil-borne pathogens that target potato roots will slowly die off without their preferred host plant present.

Soil Structure Improvement

Root systems vary widely. Potatoes have a relatively shallow, clumping root system. Grasses like rye have dense, fibrous roots that create organic matter. Tap-rooted plants like daikon radish (a cover crop) can break up hardpan soil deep down.

Step-by-Step: What to Do After Harvesting Potatoes

Follow these steps to smoothly transition your garden bed from potatoes to your next crop.

Harvest Thoroughly: Dig carefully to get all the tubers, big and small. Leftover “volunteer” potatoes can become disease carriers and weeds.
Clear and Clean: Remove all potato vines, stems, and leaves from the garden. Do not compost them if you had any disease issues; throw them away instead.
Loosen and Amend the Soil: Gently turn the soil to loosen it. Potatoes can leave soil a bit compacted. Mix in a generous 1-2 inch layer of finished compost or well-rotted manure. This replaces organic matter and some nutrients.
Test Your Soil (If Possible): A simple soil test can tell you exactly what nutrients are low after your potato crop. This helps you amend more precisely.
Choose Your Next Crop: Based on the time of season and your goals, pick from the lists above. For a quick harvest, choose beans or greens. For soil building, choose a cover crop.
Plant and Water Well: Get your new seeds or transplants in the ground promptly. Water them thoroughly to establish good contact with the soil.
Mulch: Apply a layer of straw or shredded leaves around your new plants. This conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and continues to feed the soil as it breaks down.

Seasonal Considerations for Your Planting

The timing of your potato harvest dictates your best options. Here’s a seasonal guide.

Early to Mid-Summer Harvest

If you dig new potatoes early, you have a long growing season ahead. Your options are wide open.

Plant a full succession crop of bush beans, cucumbers, or summer squash.
Start a bed of fall brassicas like broccoli or kale by transplanting seedlings.
Sow a quick cover crop like buckwheat for 6-8 weeks, then turn it under and plant a fall crop.

Late Summer or Early Fall Harvest

This is common for maincrop potatoes. The key is to think about frost dates and getting something established quickly.

Fast-growing greens are perfect: spinach, arugula, lettuce, and mustard greens can thrive in cooler fall weather.
Plant a overwintering cover crop like winter rye or crimson clover. It will grow until a hard freeze, protect the soil over winter, and you can turn it in spring.
Garlic can be planted in mid-fall. The bed will be ready just in time, and garlic is a excellent rotational crop that follows most things well.

Long-Term Garden Planning with Potatoes in Rotation

To really master your garden, think in terms of a 3 or 4-year rotation plan. This prevents problems from building up over time.

A simple 4-year rotation plan might look like this:

Year 1: Heavy Feeders (Potatoes, Corn, Squash). Add lots of compost at planting.
Year 2: Legumes (Beans, Peas). They fix nitrogen.
Year 3: Light Feeders (Root crops like carrots, onions, plus leafy greens).
Year 4: Other families (Tomatoes/Peppers, Cucumbers). Then back to Year 1.

By the time you return to potatoes, the soil has been replenished and disease cycles are broken. This is the secret to a truly low-maintenance, thriving garden. Keeping a simple garden journal makes tracking this from year to year much easier.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with planning, you might encounter a few hiccups. Here’s how to handle them.

Volunteer Potatoes Sprouting

Small tubers you missed will sprout. Pull them immediately, roots and all. They compete with your new crops and can harbor disease.

Poor Soil Quality

If the soil seems very tired and depleted, your best bet is always a cover crop. Let it do the hard work of rebuilding soil structure and fertility for a season.

Limited Space

In a small garden, full rotation is tough. Use large containers for some of your nightshades (like tomatoes) to give the in-ground beds a longer break. You can also practice interplanting with strong companions to confuse pests.

FAQ Section

Can I plant tomatoes after potatoes?

No, it is not recommended. Tomatoes and potatoes are in the same botanical family (Solanaceae). They share serious diseases like early and late blight, as well as pests. It’s best to wait at least 2-3 years before planting tomatoes where potatoes grew.

What is a good cover crop after potatoes?

Legume cover crops, such as clover or winter peas, are excellent for adding nitrogen back into the soil. For quick organic matter and weed suppression, buckwheat is a fantastic summer choice.

How soon can I replant after potatoes?

You can replant immediately after harvesting and amending the bed. The key is to choose a suitable follow-up crop from a different plant family, like beans or greens, to ensure it thrives.

Why should I avoid planting squash after potatoes?

While they are from different families, both are considered heavy feeding plants. Squash might struggle in soil that hasn’t been replenished after potatoes. It’s better to follow potatoes with a soil-builder like beans or a cover crop first.

What should I add to soil after harvesting potatoes?

Incorporate plenty of compost or well-rotted manure to replace organic matter. A balanced organic fertilizer can help if a soil test shows specific deficiencies. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers if you’re planting root crops next.

Choosing what to plant after potatoes is a powerful gardening decision. It protects your soil investment and ensures every part of your garden remains productive and healthy. By following these principles of rotation and soil care, you create a resilient garden ecosystem that yields abundantly with fewer problems. Remember, a successful garden works with nature, not against it. Your soil will thank you for the consideration with bountiful harvests for seasons to come.