What Is Eating My Tomato Plants

If you’re finding holes in leaves or missing fruit, you’re probably wondering what is eating my tomato plants. It’s a frustrating sight for any gardener. The good news is that most pests leave telltale signs. With a little detective work, you can identify the culprit and take action to protect your crop.

This guide will walk you through the most common offenders. We’ll look at the damage they cause and give you clear, effective solutions. From tiny insects to larger animals, you’ll learn how to get your plants back on track.

Let’s break down the suspects by the evidence they leave behind. Check your plants carefully for these symptoms.

Chewed Leaves and Stems

Large, irregular holes in leaves or entire sections missing point to bigger pests.

Tomato Hornworms: These are large, green caterpillars with a “horn” on their rear. They can strip a plant of leaves overnight. Look for dark droppings on leaves below.
Cutworms: These caterpillars hide in the soil by day and chew through young stems at night, cutting seedlings off at the base.
Slugs and Snails: They leave silvery slime trails and create large, ragged holes in leaves, often feeding at night or on cloudy days.
Deer and Rabbits: Deer leave clean, torn edges on leaves and can eat entire tops of plants. Rabbits make a clean, angled cut on stems low to the ground.

Holes in Fruit

When the tomatoes themselves are damaged, the list of suspects changes.

Tomato Fruitworms (Corn Earworms): These caterpillars burrow into the fruit, usually near the stem. You’ll find a messy entry hole and feeding damage inside.
Slugs and Snails: They will also chew shallow, irregular holes in ripe or nearly ripe fruit.
Birds: Birds like sparrows or starlings peck at ripe, red tomatoes, creating sharp, beak-sized holes.
Squirrels and Chipmunks: They often take single bites out of multiple fruits, leaving partially eaten tomatoes behind.

Discolored or Curling Leaves

Not all damage is from chewing. Sucking insects weaken plants by drawing out sap.

Aphids: Tiny green, black, or pink insects clustered on new growth and undersides of leaves. Leaves may curl and become sticky from “honeydew.”
Spider Mites: Extremely tiny pests that cause stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves. Fine webbing on the undersides is a sure sign.
Whiteflies: Small, white, moth-like insects that swarm when the plant is disturbed. They also excrete sticky honeydew.
Leafhoppers: Small, wedge-shaped insects that hop when disturbed. They cause leaves to curl and develop a burnt look called “hopperburn.”

Root and Underground Damage

If plants wilt despite adequate water, check below the soil.

Root-Knot Nematodes: Microscopic worms that cause swollen galls on roots. Plants become stunted and yellowed.
Wireworms: Yellowish-brown, slender larvae that bore into roots and stems below the soil line.

Effective Control Methods

Once you’ve identified the pest, choose the least invasive control method first.

Manual Removal and Barriers

Physical methods are often the safest and most immediate.

Handpick: For hornworms, cutworms, and larger bugs, pick them off and drop them into soapy water. Do this in the evening or early morning.
Use Collars: Place cardboard or aluminum foil collars around seedling stems to block cutworms.
Install Fencing: Chicken wire or hardware cloth can exclude rabbits. For deer, you need a fence at least 8 feet tall.
Apply Diatomaceous Earth: Sprinkle this powder around plants to deter slugs and crawling insects. It must be reapplied after rain.
Set Traps: Beer traps or copper tape are effective for slugs and snails.

Natural Predators and Biological Controls

Encourage nature’s pest patrol.

Attract birds with a birdbath; they eat many caterpillars and insects.
Release or encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs (for aphids) or lacewings.
Use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacteria, to control caterpillars like hornworms and fruitworms without harming other insects.
Apply beneficial nematodes to the soil to manage soil-dwelling pests like cutworms and some beetle larvae.

Organic and Chemical Sprays

Use sprays as a last resort and always follow label instructions.

Insecticidal Soap: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites on contact.
Neem Oil: A multi-purpose organic spray that disrupts the feeding of many pests and can help with fungal diseases too.
Horticultural Oil: Smothers eggs and immature insects; use during dormant seasons or carefully on growing plants.
Pyrethrin-Based Insecticides: Derived from chrysanthemums, these offer broader control but can also harm beneficial insects. Use sparingly.

Prevention is the Best Strategy

Keeping pests away is easier than fighting an infestation.

Rotate Crops: Don’t plant tomatoes in the same spot each year. This disrupts soil-borne pest life cycles.
Keep it Clean: Remove plant debris in the fall where pests can overwinter. Weed regularly, as weeds host many pests.
Choose Resistant Varieties: Look for tomato varieties labeled with resistance to nematodes (N), wilt (F, V), and other issues.
Inspect Regularly: Check your plants every few days. Early detection makes control much simpler.
Water at the Base: Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to keep leaves dry, which discourages some pests and diseases.
Use Companion Planting: Plant basil, marigolds, or borage nearby to help repel some pests naturally. The evidence for this is mixed, but it can’t hurt.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is making holes in my tomato plant leaves?

Holes in leaves are commonly caused by tomato hornworms, slugs, snails, or beetles like the flea beetle (which makes many tiny holes). Inspect the leaves, especially the undersides, for the pest or its droppings.

How do I stop bugs from eating my tomatoes?

Start with physical barriers like netting for birds and fencing for animals. For insects, use manual removal, encourage beneficial insects, and apply organic sprays like insecticidal soap or neem oil as needed. Consistent garden cleanup is crucial.

What animal eats tomatoes at night?

Several animals feed nocturnally. This includes slugs, snails, cutworms, deer, raccoons, and opossums. Look for tracks, droppings, or specific damage patterns to identify which one.

What are the tiny green bugs on my tomato plants?

Those are almost certainly aphids. You can blast them off with a strong jet of water from your hose or treat them with insecticidal soap. Ladybugs will also quickly eat them.

Why do my tomato plants have curled leaves?

Leaf curl can be from pests like aphids or leafhoppers, but it can also be from environmental stress (too much water, heat, or wind) or a viral disease. Check for insects first and ensure your watering practices are consistent.

Figuring out what is eating your tomato plants is the first step to a healthy harvest. By observing the damage closely and acting quickly with targeted methods, you can minimize losses. Remember, a diverse garden with healthy soil is your best long-term defence. Don’t get discouraged—every gardener faces these challenges, and with a bit of patience, you’ll enjoy plenty of homegrown tomatoes.