What Is Eating My Succulents

If you’re finding holes, notches, or missing chunks on your plants, you’re probably wondering what is eating my succulents. These tough plants aren’t immune to pests, and several common garden pests find them quite tasty.

This guide will help you identify the culprits and show you how to stop them. We’ll cover everything from tiny bugs to nighttime visitors so you can protect your collection.

First, don’t panic. Pest damage is a normal part of gardening. The key is early identification and action. Start by examining your plant closely, both on top and underneath the leaves. Look for the pests themselves or clues they leave behind.

1. Mealybugs: The Fluffy White Menace

These are one of the most common succulent pests. They look like tiny bits of cotton or fluffy white powder clustered in leaf crevices, stems, and undersides. They suck sap, weakening the plant.

Signs: White cottony residue, sticky honeydew (a shiny substance), and sooty mold growth.
Treatment: Dab individuals with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. For larger infestations, spray with a mix of water, a little dish soap, and alcohol.

2. Aphids: The Sap-Sucking Crowd

These tiny, pear-shaped insects gather in groups, often on new growth or flower stalks. They can be green, black, or red. Like mealybugs, they excrete honeydew.

Signs: Clusters of small bugs, distorted new leaves, and lots of ant activity (ants farm aphids for honeydew).
Treatment: A strong jet of water can dislodge them. Insecticidal soap or neem oil sprays are very effective treatments.

3. Spider Mites: Nearly Invisible Weavers

These are not insects but tiny arachnids. You might see fine, silky webbing before you see the mites. They cause stippling—tiny yellow or white dots on the leaves.

Signs: Webbing between leaves and stems, a dusty look on the plant, and leaves turning pale or bronzed.
Treatment: Isolate the plant immediately. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth and spray thoroughly with neem oil or a miticide. They thrive in dry air, so increasing humidity can help.

4. Scale Insects: The Stubborn Bumps

Scale look like small, brown, tan, or white bumps stuck to stems and leaves. They have a hard shell and can be difficult to remove. They also feed on plant juices.

Signs: Immobile bump-like insects, yellowing leaves, and honeydew.
Treatment: Scrape them off gently with a fingernail or soft brush. Then, treat the area with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to get any remaining young ones.

5. Fungus Gnats: More Than Just Annoying Flies

The adult gnats are harmless, but their larvae live in the soil and feed on organic matter and, sometimes, succulent roots. This is especially a risk for seedlings or stressed plants.

Signs: Tiny black flies buzzing around the soil surface, and poor plant growth.
Treatment: Let the soil dry completely between waterings. Use yellow sticky traps for adults. A hydrogen peroxide soil drench can kill larvae.

6. Snails and Slugs: The Nighttime Raiders

These pests leave very obvious evidence. They come out at night or after rain and chew large, irregular holes in leaves. They prefer tender, young growth.

Signs: Large chewed sections, slimy trails on the pot or leaves, and damage appearing overnight.
Treatment: Hand-pick them at night with a flashlight. Create barriers like diatomaceous earth around pots. Beer traps are also a classic, effective remedy.

7. Caterpillars and Beetles: The Big Biters

These insects cause significant, rapid damage. You’ll see large chunks missing or entire leaves eaten down to the stem.

Signs: Substantial chewing damage, visible insects (like hornworms or cucumber beetles), and dark droppings (frass) on leaves.
Treatment: Physically remove the pests. Apply a caterpillar-specific biological control like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or a general garden insecticide if needed.

8. Birds, Rodents, and Other Animals

Sometimes the pest is bigger than a bug. Birds may peck at leaves for moisture. Mice, rats, or squirrels might take bites or knock plants over.

Signs: Very large damage, missing plants, bite marks, or disturbed soil.
Treatment: Use physical barriers like bird netting or wire cloches. Repellent sprays with bitter flavors can deter chewing animals.

How to Treat a Pest Infestation: A Step-by-Step Plan

Follow these steps to get things under control.

Step 1: Isolate the Affected Plant

Move it away from your other plants immediately. This prevents the pests from spreading and becoming a bigger problem.

Step 2: Identify the Pest

Use the descriptions above to figure out what you’re dealing with. Correct identification is crucial for choosing the right treatment method.

Step 3: Choose Your Treatment Method

Physical Removal: Good for large pests like caterpillars or slugs, and for wiping off mealybugs and scale.
Water Spray: A strong stream can knock off aphids and spider mites.
Rubbing Alcohol: Apply with a cotton swab directly on mealybugs and scale insects.
Insecticidal Soap: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, mealybugs, and young scale. Coat the pests thoroughly.
Neem Oil: A natural insecticide that disrupts pests’ life cycles. Works on a wide range of insects and mites.
Systemic Insecticides: For severe, recurring infestations. The plant absorbs it, making it toxic to sap-sucking pests.

Step 4: Apply Treatment and Repeat

Treat the plant according to the product instructions. Most treatments need repeat applications about a week apart to break the pest life cycle and get newly hatched eggs.

Step 5: Prevent Future Problems

Prevention is always easier than cure. Here’s how to keep pests away:

Inspect New Plants: Quarantine and check any new plant for a few weeks before adding it to your collection.
Provide Good Growing Conditions: A healthy, unstressed succulent is more resistant. Ensure proper light, well-draining soil, and careful watering.
Keep the Area Clean: Remove dead leaves from the soil surface where pests can hide.
Use Preventative Sprays: A light, occasional spray of neem oil solution can deter pests from settling in.

FAQ: Common Questions About Succulent Pests

What are the most common bugs on succulents?

Mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites are the most frequent indoor pests. Scale and fungus gnats are also very common.

How do I get rid of bugs on my succulents naturally?

Start with physical removal or a water spray. Rubbing alcohol on mealybugs, insecticidal soap sprays, and neem oil are all effective natural options. Diatomaceous earth helps with crawling pests.

Why do my succulents keep getting pests?

Overwatering or over-fertilizing can create weak, sappy growth that attracts pests. Lack of air circulation and bringing in infested new plants are other common reasons.

Can a plant recover from pest damage?

Yes, succulents are resilient. While damaged leaves won’t heal, the plant will grow new ones. Focus on removing the pest and providing excellent care. The new growth will be healthy.

Is neem oil safe for all succulents?

Mostly, yes. But some succulents with farina (a powdery bloom on the leaves) can have their coating damaged. Test on a small area first, and avoid treating in direct, hot sunlight to prevent leaf burn.

Finding pests on your succulents can be frustrating, but it’s a solvable problem. Regular observation is your best tool. Catching an infestation early makes control much simpler. With the right identification and a consistant treatment plan, you can get your plants back to health and keep them that way. Remember, every gardener deals with this—it’s just part of the journey.