What Is Eating My Salvias

If you’re noticing holes, ragged leaves, or missing flowers on your beautiful salvias, you’re probably wondering what is eating my salvias. These tough, pollinator-friendly plants can still fall victim to a range of common garden pests. Let’s look at the usual suspects and figure out how to stop them, so you can get your plants back to their best.

Salvias are generally resistant to deer and rabbits, but insects and other small critters find them quite tasty. The damage you see gives you the first clue. Chewed leaves, slimy trails, or stunted growth each point to a different problem. Correct identification is the key to effective control.

Common Culprits and the Damage They Cause

Here’s a rundown of the most frequent pests that bother salvias, grouped by the type of harm they do.

Leaf Chewers: Holes and Skeletonized Leaves

These pests eat the green tissue of the leaves, leaving behind obvious holes or sometimes just the veins.

Caterpillars: Including the larvae of moths and butterflies like the cabbage looper. They create irregular holes and often leave dark droppings (frass) behind.
Slugs and Snails: These nighttime feeders leave large, ragged holes and a tell-tale silvery slime trail on leaves and soil. They are worst in damp, shady conditions.
Japanese Beetles & Other Beetles: They chew from the leaf edges inward, often skeletonizing leaves so only the veins remain.

Sap Suckers: Discolored, Curled, or Stunted Growth

These tiny pests pierce plant cells and suck out the juices, causing subtle but serious damage.

Aphids: Small, pear-shaped insects in green, black, or red. They cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves, causing curling and sticky “honeydew” residue that attracts sooty mold.
Spider Mites: Nearly microscopic pests that create fine webbing on leaves. Leaves become stippled with yellow dots, then turn brown and dry. They thrive in hot, dusty conditions.
Whiteflies: Tiny, white, moth-like insects that swarm when the plant is disturbed. They also excrete honeydew and weaken the plant.
Leafhoppers: Small, wedge-shaped insects that hop when disturbed. Their feeding causes leaves to develop a stippled or bleached appearance.

Root and Stem Attackers

These pests target parts of the plant below the soil or at the base, which can be more devistating.

Vine Weevils: The adult weevils notch leaf edges at night. Their soil-dwelling larvae are the real problem, though, as they feed on roots, causing sudden plant wilting and collapse.
Cutworms: These caterpillars hide in the soil by day and chew through young stems at ground level at night, severing whole seedlings or new shoots.

How to Identify the Pest: A Step-by-Step Guide

Follow these steps to play garden detective and pinpoint your pest problem.

Inspect the Damage: Look closely at the leaves (top and bottom), stems, and flowers. Note the pattern: big holes, tiny dots, chewed edges, or a sticky film?
Check the Time: Some pests, like slugs and cutworms, feed primarilly at night. If damage appears overnight, you know who to suspect.
Look for the Pest Itself: Gently shake the plant over a white piece of paper to dislodge tiny insects like spider mites. Use a flashlight after dark to catch nocturnal feeders in the act.
Examine the Soil: Dig gently around the base of a damaged plant to look for larvae, like vine weevil grubs, which are C-shaped and creamy white.

Effective Control Methods for a Healthy Garden

Once you know what you’re dealing with, you can choose the right responce. Always start with the least harmful option.

Physical and Mechanical Controls

Handpicking: For larger pests like beetles, caterpillars, and slugs (wear gloves!). Drop them into soapy water. Do this in the evening or early morning.
Water Spray: A strong jet of water from the hose can knock aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies off plants. Repeat every few days.
Barriers: Use copper tape around pots to deter slugs and snails. Cardboard or aluminum foil collars around seedlings stop cutworms.
Traps: Sink a shallow dish of beer into the soil to attract and drown slugs. Yellow sticky traps catch whiteflies and leafhoppers.

Biological Controls (Using Nature’s Helpers)

Encourage or introduce beneficial insects that are natural predators.

Ladybugs and lacewings devour aphids.
Parasitic wasps target caterpillar and aphid populations.
Nematodes (microscopic worms) applied to soil can control vine weevil larvae and cutworms effectively.

Organic and Chemical Options

Use these as a last resort, and always follow label instructions carefully.

Insecticidal Soap or Horticultural Oil: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites. They must contact the pest directly.
Neem Oil: A natural insecticide that disrupts pests feeding and growth. It works on a broad range of insects.
Diatomaceous Earth: A fine powder that damages the outer layer of slugs and insects with exoskeletons. Sprinkle around plants; reapply after rain.
Targeted Insecticides: For severe infestations, products containing spinosad (for caterpillars) or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective and have lower impact on beneficials.

Prevention: The Best Long-Term Strategy

Keeping your salvias healthy is the best way to prevent major pest issues.

Choose the Right Location: Plant salvias in full sun with good air circulation to reduce dampness that attracts slugs and fungal issues.
Water at the Base: Avoid overhead watering which keeps leaves wet and attracts pests. Water deeply but less frequently to encourage strong roots.
Keep it Clean: Remove plant debris in fall where pests can overwinter. Weed regularly, as weeds can harbor pests.
Encourage Biodiversity: Plant a variety of flowers to attract beneficial insects. Dill, fennel, yarrow, and cosmos are great choices.
Inspect New Plants: Always check plants at the nursery before bringing them home to avoid introducing pests to your garden.

FAQ: Quick Answers About Salvias and Pests

Q: Are salvias pest-resistant?
A: They are more resistant than many plants to deer and rabbits, but several insects still find them attractive. No plant is completely immune.

Q: What’s making my salvia leaves sticky?
A: That’s honeydew, a waste product from sap-sucking insects like aphids or whiteflies. It often leads to black sooty mold growing on it.

Q: Do slugs eat salvia?
A: Yes, slugs are common pests of salvias, especially in moist, shaded gardens or during wet seasons. They leave ragged holes and slime trails.

Q: Why are my salvia flowers disappearing?
A: Budworms, a type of small caterpillar, can bore into flower buds and eat them from the inside before they ever open. Check buds for small holes.

Q: Can I use homemade soap spray?
A: You can, but be cautious. A mild solution of dish soap and water (1-2 tsp per gallon) can work on aphids, but it may damage sensitive salvia leaves. Test on a small area first.

Figuring out what is eating your salvias is the first step toward a solution. By observing the signs, identifying the pest correctly, and using targeted controls, you can manage the problem with minimal fuss. With good garden hygiene and preventative care, your salvias will thrive and continue to provide color and joy for seasons to come.