What Is Eating My Rose Leaves

If you’re noticing holes, notches, or missing sections on your rose bushes, you’re probably asking: what is eating my rose leaves? This is a common frustration for gardeners, as roses attract a variety of hungry pests. Don’t worry, though. With a careful eye, you can identify the culprit and take effective action to protect your plants.

This guide will walk you through the most common offenders. We’ll look at the specific damage they cause and show you how to manage them. Your roses can recover and thrive with the right approach.

To solve the mystery, you need to play detective. The type of damage is your first clue. Look closely at the leaves, stems, and even the soil around the plant. Are the edges chewed? Are there tiny dots or a sticky residue? The time of day you inspect matters, too, as some pests feed at night and hide during the day.

Common Culprits and Their Telltale Signs

1. Japanese Beetles

These are perhaps the most notorious rose pests. They are easy to spot with their metallic copper and green bodies.

Damage: Skeletonized leaves, where only the veins remain. They eat the tissue between the veins, leaving a lace-like skeleton.
When: They are most active on sunny days in mid-summer.
Control: Hand-pick them in the early morning when they are sluggish and drop them into soapy water. Neem oil can deter feeding. Traps can attract more beetles to your yard than they catch, so place them far from your roses.

2. Rose Slugs (Sawfly Larvae)

Despite their name, these are not true slugs. They are the larvae of sawflies and look like tiny green caterpillars.

Damage: They scrape off the upper surface of the leaf, creating translucent “windows” or blotches. Severe infestations can defoliate a plant.
When: You’ll often see them in spring or early summer.
Control: A strong blast of water from your hose can knock them off. Insecticidal soap or neem oil applied directly to the larvae is very effective.

3. Aphids

These tiny, soft-bodied insects cluster on new growth, flower buds, and the undersides of leaves. They can be green, black, or pink.

Damage: They suck plant sap, causing leaves to curl and distort. They also excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.
When: They appear in spring and can have multiple generations throughout the growing season.
Control: A strong spray of water often dislodges them. Ladybugs and lacewings are natural predators. For heavy infestations, use insecticidal soap.

4. Caterpillars (Various Types)

Several types of moth and butterfly caterpillars will munch on rose leaves.

Damage: Irregular holes chewed right through the leaf, sometimes leaving only the midrib. You might find dark droppings (frass) on the leaves below.
When: Spring through fall, depending on the species.
Control: Hand-pick them if you can. The organic pesticide Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is specifically targeted at caterpillars and is safe for other insects.

5. Leafcutter Bees

These are actually beneficial pollinators, but their nesting habit affects roses.

Damage: Nearly perfect, circular holes cut from the edges of leaves. They use these pieces to build their nests.
When: Summer.
Control: Tolerance is best, as they are important pollinators. The damage is usually minor and cosmetic. If necessary, floating row covers can protect prized plants.

6. Spider Mites

These are tiny arachnids, barely visible to the naked eye. They thrive in hot, dry conditions.

Damage: Leaves develop a stippled, yellow look and may feel dusty. Fine webbing may be visible on the undersides of leaves or between stems.
When: Peak in hot, dry summer weather.
Control: Increase humidity with regular overhead watering. Hose down plants frequently. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can help control populations.

How to Inspect Your Roses Like a Pro

Follow these steps to get a full picture of what’s happening.

Check the Time: Inspect at different times—early morning, dusk, and after dark with a flashlight. Some pests are nocturnal.
Look Everywhere: Examine the undersides of leaves, along stems, inside developing buds, and at the base of the plant.
Identify the Damage Pattern: Match what you see to the descriptions above. Take a photo if your unsure and compare it to online resources.
Look for Secondary Signs: Check for eggs, droppings, shed skins, or the presence of beneficial insects like ladybugs that might already be helping.

Organic and Chemical Control Options

Always start with the least toxic method and escalate only if needed. This protects you, your garden’s ecosystem, and beneficial insects.

Physical and Cultural Controls

Hand-Picking: Very effective for large pests like Japanese beetles and caterpillars.
Water Spray: A strong jet of water knocks off aphids, mites, and young rose slugs.
Pruning: Remove and destroy severely infested leaves or canes. Improve air circulation to deter some pests.
Encourage Beneficials: Plant a diverse garden to attract birds, ladybugs, and parasitic wasps that prey on pests.

Organic Sprays

Insecticidal Soap: Kills soft-bodied insects on contact but must coat the pest. It has no residual effect.
Neem Oil: Acts as both a repellent and an insect growth regulator. It’s effective against a broad range of pests when applied regularly.
Horticultural Oil: Used in dormant season to smother overwintering eggs of aphids and mites.
Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis): A bacterial toxin that specifically targets caterpillars without harming other insects.

Chemical Insecticides (Last Resort)

Use these sparingly and precisely, as they can harm pollinators and natural predators. Always read and follow the label instructions exactly. Systemic insecticides can be taken up by the plant and protect it for longer, but they can also affect pollen and nectar.

Preventing Future Problems

A healthy rose is your best defense. Stressed plants are more suseptible to pest attacks.

Right Plant, Right Place: Ensure your roses get at least 6 hours of sun and have well-draining soil.
Water Wisely: Water at the base of the plant to keep leaves dry, which prevents some fungal diseases and discourages some pests.
Feed Appropriately: Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can promote soft, sappy growth that aphids love.
Clean Up: In fall, remove all fallen leaves and debris around your roses to eliminate overwintering sites for pests and diseases.

FAQ

What is chewing my rose leaves at night?
Likely candidates are slugs, snails, or caterpillars. Go out after dark with a flashlight to catch them in the act. You might also look for slime trails, which indicate slugs or snails.

What makes holes in rose leaves?
Caterpillars create irregular holes. Leafcutter bees cut neat, circular sections from the edges. Shotgun-like holes can sometimes be from certain types of beetles.

How do I keep bugs from eating my rose leaves?
Promote plant health first. Then, use a combination of regular monitoring, encouraging beneficial insects, and using targeted organic controls like hand-picking or insecticidal soap when you see a problem starting.

Are there any homemade sprays for rose pests?
A simple mixture of mild liquid soap and water (1-2 teaspoons per gallon) can work against soft-bodied insects like aphids. Test it on a small area first to ensure it doesn’t damage the foliage. Neem oil, which you must purchase, is a more reliable homemade option when mixed as directed.

Should I be concerned about every bug I see?
No. A few pests are normal and can sustain populations of beneficial predators. The goal is management, not total eradication. Tolerate a little bit of damage, especially from pollinators like leafcutter bees.

Figuring out what is eating your rose leaves is the first step toward a solution. By identifying the specific pest and understanding it’s life cycle, you can choose a control method that is effective and minimizes harm to your garden’s natural balance. With consistent care and observation, you can enjoy beautiful, healthy roses all season long.