What Is Eating Holes In My Tomatoes

If you’re finding damaged fruit in your garden, you’re probably asking a common question: what is eating holes in my tomatoes? It’s a frustrating sight to see your nearly ripe tomatoes ruined by something you can’t see. This article will help you identify the hidden culprits and give you clear, effective ways to stop them.

We’ll look at the most common pests, from tiny insects to larger animals. You’ll learn how to spot the specific damage each one causes. Then, we’ll go through proven methods to protect your plants, using both natural solutions and preventative strategies.

Tomato pests leave distinct clues. The size, shape, and location of the holes tell you who the invader is. Some pests chew from the outside, while others burrow from the inside out. Let’s break down the suspects by the evidence they leave behind.

Common Insects That Chew Holes

These are the usual insect suspects. They feed directly on the fruit, leaves, and stems.

Tomato Fruitworms (Corn Earworms): These caterpillars are a major culprit. They bore deep, round holes into the side of the tomato, often near the stem. Inside, you’ll find wet, messy frass (droppings) and the caterpillar itself, which can be green, brown, or pink.
Tomato Hornworms: These large, green caterpillars can strip a plant overnight. They create large, irregular holes and often eat entire sections of the fruit. Their dark green droppings on leaves below are a clear sign.
Slugs and Snails: They leave shallow, irregular holes with smooth edges. You’ll usually see their telltale silvery slime trails on the fruit, soil, and nearby leaves. They feed at night and on cloudy days.
Stink Bugs and Leaf-Footed Bugs: These pests pierce the tomato skin with their needle-like mouthparts. They cause small, white or yellow spots on the outside. Underneath, the flesh becomes white, corky, and spongy. The holes are small but the damage inside is significant.
Flea Beetles: They typically attack leaves, creating a “shot-hole” appearance. On young, tender fruit, they can also make tiny, scattered pits or holes.

Boring Insects and Internal Feeders

Some pests cause damage from the inside, making them harder to spot early.

Tomato Pinworms: These small larvae tunnel into the fruit, usually entering near the stem end. Their tiny entry holes are often overlooked. Inside, they create winding, dark tunnels filled with frass.
Tomato Fruit Fly Larvae (in some regions): Similar to pinworms, the larvae feed inside the fruit, causing collapse and rot around a small entry point.

Larger Animal Pests

Sometimes, the holes are too big for insects. Animals can be the problem.

Birds (Sparrows, Starlings): Birds peck at ripe, red tomatoes. They create jagged, large holes, often on the top or side of the fruit. They are usually after the moisture, especially in dry weather.
Rodents (Squirrels, Chipmunks, Rats): They take big, clean bites out of the fruit, sometimes eating half a tomato in one go. You might find partially eaten tomatoes on the ground or still on the vine.
Deer: Deer bites are very large and the fruit is often completely removed from the plant. Look for other signs like hoof prints or trampled plants nearby.

Diagnosing the Damage: A Quick Guide

Small, deep, round hole with frass inside? Likely a Tomato Fruitworm.
Large, irregular holes with big green caterpillars present? Tomato Hornworm.
Shallow, ragged holes with silvery slime trails? Slugs or Snails.
Yellow spots on skin with white, corky flesh underneath? Stink Bugs.
Tiny, scattered pits on young fruit? Flea Beetles.
Small entry hole near stem with internal tunneling? Pinworm or similar borer.
Large, jagged peck marks on ripe fruit? Birds.
Large, clean bites taken out, fruit may be gone? Rodents or Deer.

Effective Prevention and Control Strategies

Once you know the pest, you can choose the right defense. An integrated approach works best.

Cultural and Physical Controls

These methods stop problems before they start by making your garden less inviting to pests.

Crop Rotation: Don’t plant tomatoes in the same spot year after year. This disrupts the life cycle of soil-borne pests and diseases.
Clean Garden Hygiene: Remove fallen fruit and plant debris regularly. This eliminates hiding places and food sources for pests like slugs and hornworms.
Use Floating Row Covers: Cover young plants with a lightweight fabric. This creates a physical barrier against flying insects like stink bugs and egg-laying moths. Remember to remove it when plants flower to allow for pollination.
Hand-Picking: For larger pests like hornworms and slugs, hand removal is very effective. Do it in the early morning or evening. Drop hornworms into soapy water.
Provide Bird Netting: To protect ripe fruit from birds, drape netting over your tomato cages or stakes. Ensure it’s secure so birds don’t get tangled.
Install Fencing: For deer and rodents, a physical barrier is often necessary. Use sturdy wire fencing buried at least 6 inches deep to deter burrowing.
Use Copper Tape: Apply adhesive copper tape around the rims of raised beds or pots. It creates a mild electrical charge that deters slugs and snails.

Natural and Organic Remedies

These solutions target pests without harsh chemicals, preserving your garden’s ecosystem.

Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade): Sprinkle a ring of DE around the base of plants. Its sharp microscopic edges cut the soft bodies of slugs, snails, and some insects. Reapply after rain.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): This is a natural soil bacteria that is toxic to caterpillars when ingested. Spray Bt kurstaki on leaves to control fruitworms and hornworms. It’s safe for people, pets, and beneficial insects.
Beneficial Insects: Encourage or introduce natural predators. Ladybugs and lacewings eat aphids. Braconid wasps parasitize hornworms (you’ll see white cocoons on their backs). Birds eat many insects, so a birdbath can attract helpful species.
Slug Traps: Sink a shallow container (like a yogurt cup) into the soil near plants. Fill it with beer or a yeast-sugar-water mixture. Slugs are attracted, fall in, and drown.
Kaolin Clay: Spraying a coating of this refined clay on fruit creates a gritty barrier that irritates and repels many pests, including stink bugs and beetles.
Strong-Scented Companion Plants: Plant basil, marigolds, or borage near your tomatoes. Their strong scents can confuse and repel certain insect pests.

When to Consider Further Action

If infestations are severe, you might need these additional options. Always follow label instructions carefully.

Insecticidal Soaps: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids and young stink bug nymphs. It must contact the pest directly.
Neem Oil: A botanical extract that disrupts the feeding and growth of many insects. It works best as a preventative spray applied regularly.
Spinosad: A natural substance derived from soil bacteria. It is effective against caterpillars, thrips, and some beetles. It is toxic to bees when wet, so spray in the late evening after bees have returned to their hives.

A Seasonal Action Plan for Protection

Before Planting (Spring)

Choose pest-resistant tomato varieties when possible.
Prepare soil with plenty of compost for healthy plants, which resist pests better.
Set up stakes, cages, and fencing structures early.
Plan your companion planting layout.

After Transplanting (Late Spring/Early Summer)

Apply row covers immediately after planting.
Mulch around plants with straw or wood chips to supress weeds and deter some soil pests.
Start weekly inspections of the undersides of leaves for egg clusters.
Begin preventative sprays like neem oil or Bt if you have had problems in past years.

During Fruiting (Summer)

Inspect plants daily. Early detection is key.
Hand-pick any visible pests immediately.
Remove any damaged or rotten fruit from the plant and ground.
Install bird netting as soon as fruits start to blush (turn red).
Reapply organic sprays after rain or every 7-10 days as needed.

End of Season (Fall)

After the final harvest, remove all tomato plants and debris from the garden.
Till the soil lightly to expose any overwintering pupae to cold weather and birds.
Take notes on which pests were worst this year to guide next year’s plan.

Why Healthy Plants Matter Most

A stressed plant sends out signals that attract pests. Strong, vigorous plants are your first line of defense. Ensure your tomatoes get consistent watering (avoid overhead watering to prevent disease). Provide adequate sunlight and space for air circulation. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to avoid excessive leafy growth, which can attract aphids and other sap-suckers. A healthy tomato is better able to withstand minor pest attacks without significant fruit loss.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overusing Broad-Spectrum Pesticides: These kill beneficial insects that naturally control pests, often making the problem worse in the long run.
Waiting Too Long to Act: A few hornworms can defoliate a plant in a couple days. Check your plants regularly.
Ignoring Soil Health: Poor soil leads to weak plants. Invest in your soil with compost and organic matter every year.
Planting Too Close Together: Crowded plants create damp, shady conditions that slugs and snails love, and they spread disease more easily.

FAQ: Answers to Your Tomato Pest Questions

Q: What’s making small holes in my tomato leaves?
A: This is often flea beetles or caterpillar feeding. Check the undersides of leaves for tiny black beetles (flea beetles) or small caterpillars. Leaf miners create winding, white trails instead of holes.

Q: Are the holes in my tomatoes safe to eat around?
A: For insect damage, you can cut away the damaged portion and eat the rest. If the damage is from slugs or rodents, it’s best to discard the entire fruit due to potential pathogens they carry.

Q: How can I stop birds from pecking my tomatoes?
A: Bird netting is the most reliable method. Some gardeners also try hanging reflective tape, old CDs, or using decoy predators like fake owls (move them frequently so birds don’t get used to them).

Q: What’s eating my tomatoes at night?
A: Likely suspects are slugs, snails, hornworms, or rodents. Go out after dark with a flashlight to catch them in the act. Look for slime trails or listen for chewing sounds.

Q: Do marigolds really keep tomato pests away?
A: They can help repel some nematodes (microscopic soil worms) and possibly confuse some insects with their scent, but they are not a complete solution. Use them as part of a broader strategy.

Q: Why do my tomatoes have holes only at the bottom?
A: This could be a sign of blossom-end rot, which is a disorder not a pest. It causes a dark, sunken leathery patch. If it’s a true hole, it might be from slugs or soil-dwelling insects splashing up onto low-hanging fruit.

Figuring out what is eating holes in your tomatoes is the first step to a solution. By carefully observing the damage and using the targeted methods outlined here, you can protect your harvest. Consistent garden care, combined with smart, timely interventions, will ensure you spend less time battling pests and more time enjoying your homegrown tomatoes. Remember, a proactive gardener is the most effective pest control of all.