What Can You Plant After Potatoes

Knowing what can you plant after potatoes is one of the smartest moves you can make for your garden’s health. It keeps your soil productive and your plants thriving, season after season. This simple practice, called crop rotation, prevents pests and diseases from getting a foothold. It also helps your soil stay balanced and full of nutrients.

Potatoes are heavy feeders, meaning they take a lot from the soil. After you harvest them, the ground needs a bit of TLC and the right follow-up plants. Choosing the correct successors is key to a successful garden. Let’s look at how to set your next crops up for success.

After potatoes, your best choices are legumes, leafy greens, or root vegetables from a different family. These plants have different needs and help restore the soil. They break pest cycles and make efficient use of the nutrients left behind.

Here’s a quick list of excellent options to consider:

Beans & Peas (Legumes): These are the top choice. They fix nitrogen in the soil, replacing what the potatoes used up.
Leafy Greens: Spinach, lettuce, kale, and Swiss chard have shallow roots and different nutrient demands.
Other Root Crops: Carrots, beets, or parsnips. They are light feeders and explore different soil depths.
Brassicas: Cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower can do well if you amend the soil with compost first.
Quick-Growing Annuals: Plants like calendula or borage can be used as a beneficial cover crop.

Why Crop Rotation Matters After Potatoes

Potatoes are part of the nightshade family (Solanaceae). This family includes tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. They are all susceptible to the same diseases, like blight, and pests, like wireworms and Colorado potato beetles.

If you plant another nightshade in the same spot, those problems will multiply. Rotating to a completely different plant family breaks this cycle naturally. It gives the soil a break and reduces the need for chemical interventions.

The Nitrogen Factor

Potatoes need a lot of nitrogen early on, but also plenty of potassium for tuber development. By harvest time, the soil is often depleted of easily available nitrogen. Legumes are perfect here because they work with bacteria to pull nitrogen from the air and convert it into a usable form in the soil. This essentially prepares the bed for future heavy feeders.

Best Plants to Follow Potatoes: Detailed Choices

1. Legumes (Beans, Peas, Clover)

This is your gold-star option. Legumes are soil builders. Their roots host rhizobia bacteria, which create nodules that fix atmospheric nitrogen. They improve soil structure and provide a fantastic benefit for the next year’s crops.

Bush Beans or Pole Beans: A great summer or early fall planting. They’re productive and easy to grow.
Peas: Ideal for a late summer planting for a fall harvest in many climates.
Clover (as a cover crop): If you’re not planting a food crop, sow clover. It protects the soil, fixes nitrogen, and suppresses weeds.

2. Leafy Greens (Lettuce, Spinach, Kale)

These are light to moderate feeders with quick growth cycles. They don’t require the high fertility that potatoes did, making them a good match for the post-potato bed. Their harvest often finishes before the heaviest fall frosts, giving you a nice succession.

3. Root Vegetables (Carrots, Beets, Turnips)

While they are root crops, they belong to different families (Apiaceae and Amaranthaceae) and have different needs. They are generally light feeders. Their taproots can help break up soil compaction left from harvesting potatoes, improving aeration.

A important note: Wait to plant carrots if you heavily manured the potato bed, as this can cause forked roots. Well-rotted compost is fine.

4. Brassicas (Cabbage, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts)

These are heavy feeders, but they thrive on different nutrients. They need lots of nitrogen and phosphorus. Since potatoes depleted nitrogen, you must add compost or a balanced organic fertilizer before planting brassicas. This makes them a good, but not passive, choice.

What You Should Avoid Planting

Knowing what not to plant is just as crucial. Avoid all plants in the same family for at least two, preferably three, years.

Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplants: All are nightshades and share diseases.
More Potatoes: This invites wireworm infestations and soil-borne diseases.
Raspberries: Surprisingly, they are susceptible to verticillium wilt, which can linger from potatoes.
Strawberries: Similarly, they can share verticillium wilt and nematode issues.

Step-by-Step: Preparing the Bed After Potato Harvest

Follow these steps to get your garden ready for its next planting.

Harvest Thoroughly: Remove all potato tubers, big and small. Any left behind can rot or sprout as “volunteers,” which can harbor disease.
Clear Debris: Remove all old potato vines and leaves from the garden. Do not compost them if you had any disease issues; throw them away.
Loosen the Soil: Gently turn the soil with a fork. This aerates it and helps you find any missed potatoes. It also prepares a seedbed for new seeds.
Amend the Soil: Add a 1-2 inch layer of well-rotted compost or aged manure. This replaces organic matter and some nutrients. For legumes, you don’t need extra nitrogen fertilizer.
Test Your Soil (Optional but Recommended): A simple test can tell you the pH and nutrient levels. Most follow-up crops prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
Plant Your Chosen Crop: Sow seeds or transplant seedlings according to their specific needs for spacing and depth.
Water Well: Keep the new planting consistently moist as it establishes.

Considering a Cover Crop

If you harvest your potatoes in mid to late summer and don’t plan another food crop, sowing a cover crop is a brilliant idea. It’s like giving your soil a restorative blanket.

Winter Rye or Annual Ryegrass: Prevents erosion, adds organic matter.
Crimson Clover or Hairy Vetch: Legume covers that fix nitrogen.
Buckwheat: Quick-growing, smothers weeds, and attracts beneficial insects.

These are tilled or turned under in spring, adding valuable green manure to your soil.

FAQ: Planting After Potatoes

Can I plant garlic after potatoes?

Yes, garlic is a good option. It’s planted in the fall, has a different growth habit, and is not a heavy feeder. Ensure the soil is well-amended with compost.

What about planting onions after potatoes?

Onions are a fine choice. They are light feeders and belong to the allium family, which is different from nightshades. They can actually help deter some pests.

How long should I wait before planting potatoes again?

A minimum three-year rotation is recommended. Don’t plant potatoes or other nightshades in that same bed for at least three growing seasons. This gives pest and disease cycles time to diminish.

Can I plant cucumbers after potatoes?

Cucumbers are generally acceptable. They are in the cucurbit family and have different needs. Just ensure they have plenty of compost and consistent water, as they are heavy feeders but in a different way than potatoes.

What is the absolute best crop to plant after potatoes?

For overall soil health, a legume like bush beans or a clover cover crop is the best. It actively repairs the nitrogen deficit and improves soil structure with minimal effort from you.

Planning for Long-Term Success

Think of your garden as a four-year cycle. A simple rotation plan makes decisions easy. For example:

Year 1: Potatoes (Heavy feeder, nightshade)
Year 2: Beans/Legumes (Soil builder)
Year 3: Leafy Greens or Brassicas (Light/Heavy feeder)
Year 4: Root Crops (Light feeder)

Then you can return to potatoes in Year 5. This systematic approach keeps your soil fertile and your plants healthy. It prevents the depletion of specific nutrients and confuses garden pests.

Remember, gardening is about observation. Take notes on what you planted where and how it performed. This record is your most valuable tool. By thoughtfully choosing what can you plant after potatoes, you’re not just growing food for this season. You’re investing in the fertility and vitality of your garden for many years to come. Your soil will thank you with bountiful harvests.