If you’ve ever grown tomatoes, you’ve probably noticed extra shoots popping up where the stem meets a branch. Understanding what are suckers on tomato plants is key to managing your garden’s health and harvest. These common growths can shape your entire growing season.
They’re not a disease or a pest, but a natural part of the plant’s structure. How you handle them depends on the type of tomato you’re growing and your goals for yield and plant size. Let’s get straight into the details.
What Are Suckers On Tomato Plants
In simple terms, a sucker is a secondary shoot that grows from the axil of a tomato plant. The axil is just the angle between the main stem and a leaf branch. If left alone, this shoot will try to become a main stem itself.
It’s called a “sucker” because it can suck energy and nutrients away from the main growing parts of the plant. This isn’t inherently bad, but it does change how the plant grows. Managing them is a fundamental part of tomato pruning.
How to Identify a Sucker
Spotting a sucker is easy once you know what to look for. Don’t worry, you won’t need any special tools.
* Look at the point where a leaf stem connects to the main trunk. This is the “V” junction.
* A small, new shoot with tiny leaves will start growing from that joint.
* It starts very small but can grow rapidly in just a few days, especially in warm, wet weather.
When it’s tiny, it’s often just a small nub. As it grows, it will develop it’s own stems, leaves, and eventually flowers and fruit. That’s why identification early is helpful.
Indeterminate vs. Determinate Tomatoes: The Crucial Difference
This is the most important part of the sucker debate. Your approach completely depends on which type of tomato you are growing.
Indeterminate Tomatoes:
These are the vining tomatoes that grow and produce fruit all season until frost. They can get very large. Common varieties include Beefsteak, Brandywine, Sungold, and most heirlooms.
* Sucker Strategy: Pruning suckers is generally recommended. It helps focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger fruits and improves air circulation.
Determinate Tomatoes:
These are the bush tomatoes. They grow to a fixed size, set all their fruit at once, and then stop growing. Examples are Roma, Celebrity, and many patio or container varieties.
* Sucker Strategy: Do not prune suckers heavily. The plant needs all its branches to produce its single, large crop. Removing suckers can significantly reduce your yield.
Always check your seed packet or plant tag to know which type you have before you start pruning.
Why Gardeners Remove Suckers (The Pros)
For indeterminate plants, removing suckers has several benefits that many gardeners find worth the effort.
* Larger Fruits: By directing the plant’s energy to fewer stems, the remaining fruits often grow bigger and ripen earlier.
* Better Airflow: A less dense plant allows air to move freely, which helps leaves dry faster. This is your best defense against fungal diseases like blight.
* Easier Management: Pruned plants are more orderly. They are easier to stake, tie, and navigate around in the garden.
* Improved Sunlight: More sunlight reaches the inner leaves and fruits, promoting better overall growth and flavor development.
Reasons You Might Leave Some Suckers (The Cons)
Pruning isn’t always the absolutly right answer. There are good reasons to leave some suckers be.
* More Total Fruit: A sucker left to grow will produce its own flowers and fruit. This can lead to a higher total number of tomatoes, even if they are somewhat smaller.
* Backup Stems: In case the main stem gets damaged, a well-placed sucker can be trained to become the new leader.
* Less Stress: Over-pruning, especially in hot weather, can expose fruit to sunscald. It can also stress the plant.
* For Determinate Plants: As mentioned, removing suckers harms their natural, bushy fruit-setting habit.
Step-by-Step Guide to Pruning Tomato Suckers
If you’ve decided to prune your indeterminate tomatoes, here’s how to do it safely and effectively.
1. Choose the Right Time.
The best time is a dry morning. This gives wounds time to callus over during the day, reducing disease risk. Start when suckers are small (2-4 inches long).
2. Use Clean, Sharp Tools.
For small suckers, your fingers (pinching) is best. For larger, woody ones, use clean pruning snips. Wipe tools with rubbing alcohol between plants to prevent spreading disease.
3. Identify the Sucker.
Locate the shoot growing from the leaf axil. Be careful not to mistake the main growing tip or a flower cluster for a sucker.
4. Remove It Carefully.
For a pinch: Gently bend the sucker back and forth until it snaps cleanly.
For a cut: Make a clean cut as close to the main stem as possible without damaging it.
5. Decide on a Pruning Method.
You don’t have to remove every single sucker. Here are two common approaches:
* The Missouri Method: Pinch off the sucker’s tip, leaving the first one or two leaves. This is less stressful to the plant and provides some extra foliage for photosynthesis.
* The Single-Stem Method: Remove all suckers completely, training the plant up one single main stem. This is common in greenhouses and for maximum fruit size.
6. Regular Maintenance.
Check your plants weekly for new sucker growth. It’s much easier to manage them when they’re small.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Pruning
Even experienced gardeners can make a few slips. Here’s what to watch out for.
* Pruning Determinate Tomatoes: This is the number one mistake. It will cost you fruit.
* Pruning When Wet: This spreads disease pathogens from plant to plant.
* Removing Too Much at Once: Never remove more than 1/3 of the plant’s foliage in a single day. It can send the plant into shock.
* Damaging the Main Stem: Be precise with your cuts and pinches.
* Pruning the Growing Tip: The main tip at the top of the plant is not a sucker. If you remove this, the plant stops growing upward.
What to Do With the Suckers You Remove
Don’t just toss them on the compost! Tomato suckers are incredibly easy to clone.
You can root them to create new, free plants. Simply place the sucker in a glass of water or a small pot of moist potting mix. Keep it in a bright, indirect light spot. In about 7-10 days, roots will form, and you’ll have a new tomato plant, genetically identical to the parent. It’s a great way to extend your season or share plants with friends.
Special Considerations for Container Gardening
Tomatoes in pots have limited resources. For indeterminate varieties in containers, aggressive sucker removal (like the single-stem method) is often wise. It prevents the plant from becoming too large for its pot and competing with itself for water and nutrients. For determinate bush types in containers, still avoid pruning.
When to Stop Pruning
About 30-45 days before your area’s first expected fall frost, you should “top” the plant. This means cutting off the main growing tip. This signals the plant to stop putting energy into new growth and instead ripen the existing fruit. At this point, you can also stop removing suckers lower down.
FAQ: Your Tomato Sucker Questions Answered
Q: Are tomato suckers bad?
A: Not at all. They are a natural part of growth. Whether they are helpful or harmful depends on your tomato type and gardening goals.
Q: Can I grow a tomato plant from a sucker?
A: Absolutely! They root very easily in water or soil, making them perfect for creating clone plants.
Q: How often should I remove suckers from tomato plants?
A: For best results, make it part of your weekly garden check-up. Removing them while they’re small (under 4 inches) is easiest and least stressful for the plant.
Q: Do cherry tomato plants need suckers removed?
A: Most cherry tomatoes are indeterminate and vigorous. Light pruning of some suckers can improve airflow and manage their wild growth, but they often produce so well you don’t need to be as strict. Heavy pruning isn’t necessary for a good cherry harvest.
Q: What happens if you don’t prune suckers?
A: On indeterminate plants, you’ll get a very large, bushy plant with many smaller fruits that may ripen later. It can also become a dense jungle prone to disease. On determinate plants, leaving suckers is exactly what you should do.
Q: Is it better to pinch or cut suckers?
A: For small, tender suckers, pinching with your fingers is best and minimizes damage. For larger, tougher suckers that have been left too long, use a clean, sharp tool to avoid tearing the stem.
Managing tomato suckers is one of those garden skills that feels complicated at first but quickly becomes second nature. The key is to know your tomato type and your own priorities—whether that’s a few massive slicing tomatoes or a huge bounty for sauces and salads. With a little regular attention, you can guide your plants toward a healthy and productive season. Remember, a few unpruned suckers won’t ruin your crop, so don’t stress to much about being perfect.