What Animals Eat Tomato Plants

If you’ve ever walked out to your garden to find your tomato plants chewed, stripped, or missing entirely, you know the frustration. You’re not alone in wondering what animals eat tomato plants. Many common garden visitors, from tiny insects to larger mammals, see your tomatoes as a free buffet.

This guide will help you identify the culprits, understand the damage they cause, and implement effective, practical strategies to protect your crop. With a little knowledge and some simple steps, you can reclaim your garden and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Let’s break down the list of suspects. The pests that target your tomatoes can be grouped into two main categories: small insects and arthropods, and larger vertebrate animals. The type of damage you see is your first big clue.

Insects and Small Pests (The Leaf Munchers)

These pests are often the most destructive on a day-to-day basis. They work quietly but can quickly defoliate or weaken your plants.

Hornworms: These are public enemy number one for tomato growers. Large, green, and camouflaged, they can strip a plant of its leaves in a single day. Look for dark droppings and stems missing all foliage.
Aphids: Tiny, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves. They suck sap, causing leaves to curl and yellow. They also secrete a sticky substance called honeydew.
Tomato Fruitworms (Corn Earworms): These caterpillars bore into the green or ripe tomatoes themselves, ruining the fruit from the inside. Entry holes are often visible.
Flea Beetles: These tiny, jumping beetles create a distinctive “shot-hole” pattern on leaves, making them look like they’ve been peppered with birdshot.
Whiteflies: Clouds of tiny white insects that fly up when disturbed. Like aphids, they suck sap and can spread plant diseases.
Cutworms: These caterpillars hide in the soil by day and emerge at night to chew through young seedling stems at ground level, cutting the whole plant down.
Spider Mites: Nearly microscopic pests that cause stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves. Severe infestations lead to webbing and bronzed, dead leaves.

Vertebrate Animals (The Stem Snappers and Fruit Stealers)

These animals cause more sudden, dramatic damage. They often strike overnight or when the garden is quiet.

Deer: They love tender tomato plants and will eat leaves, stems, and fruit. Damage looks cleanly torn, and plants may be ripped out of the ground. Their height means they often leave a distinct browse line.
Rabbits: They neatly clip off young seedlings and low-hanging stems and leaves. Look for clean, angled cuts, about the size of a scissors snip, near the ground.
Groundhogs (Woodchucks): These are voracious eaters. They will consume entire plants—leaves, stems, and fruit—often leaving only stubs behind. Look for burrow entrances near the garden.
Squirrels and Chipmunks: They typically don’t eat the leaves. Instead, they take single bites out of ripe or nearly ripe tomatoes, then abandon the damaged fruit. This is often a sign they are seeking water.
Birds (like Sparrows or Starlings): Birds may peck at ripe, red tomatoes, creating holes and gouges. They are also known to sometimes damage young seedlings.
Voles: These mouse-like rodents tunnel underground and may gnaw on roots, causing plants to wilt and die suddenly. They rarely eat the above-ground parts.

Diagnosing the Damage: A Quick Guide

Before you choose a solution, match the evidence to the pest.

Leaves completely gone: Likely hornworms, deer, or groundhogs.
Leaves with holes or stippling: Flea beetles, caterpillars, or spider mites.
Stems cut at base: Cutworms or rabbits.
Fruit with holes or bites: Tomato fruitworms, squirrels, or birds.
Sticky residue on leaves: Aphids or whiteflies.

Building Your Defense: Prevention and Control Strategies

A multi-layered approach is the most effective. Start with the least invasive methods and escalate as needed.

Physical Barriers (The Most Effective Method)

Blocking access is often the surest way to stop pests.

Fencing for Deer: You need a tall fence, at least 8 feet high. A double-layer or slanted fence can also work, as deer are reluctant to jump into a space they can’t see.
Fencing for Rabbits and Groundhogs: Use 1-inch mesh chicken wire. Bury it at least 6 inches deep and angle the bottom outward to prevent digging. The above-ground part should be 3 feet high for rabbits, and 3-4 feet for groundhogs (they can climb).
Row Covers: Lightweight fabric row covers placed over young plants protect them from insects, birds, and rabbits. Remember to remove them when plants flower to allow for pollination.
Collars for Cutworms: Place cardboard or plastic collars (like a paper cup with the bottom cut out) around seedling stems, pushing an inch into the soil.
Cages and Netting: Sturby tomato cages support plants and make them slightly less accessible. Bird netting over the top can deter birds and squirrels, but ensure it’s taut to avoid tangling animals.

Cultural and Garden Management Practices

How you manage your garden makes a huge difference.

Crop Rotation: Avoid planting tomatoes in the same spot year after year. This disrupts the life cycles of soil-borne pests and diseases.
Clean Up Debris: Remove fallen leaves, fruit, and spent plants at the end of the season. This eliminates overwintering spots for insects and disease.
Encourage Beneficial Insects: Plant flowers like marigolds, borage, and yarrow to attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that prey on aphids and hornworms.
Handpicking: For larger pests like hornworms, regular patrols and hand removal (dropping them into soapy water) is very effective. It’s a bit gross but works great.
Healthy Soil and Watering: Strong, healthy plants are more resilient. Water at the base of plants (not overhead) to keep foliage dry and less inviting to pests.

Natural and Organic Remedies

These solutions target pests with minimal enviromental impact.

Insecticidal Soap: Excellent for soft-bodied insects like aphids and whiteflies. It must contact the pest directly. Spray in the early morning or evening.
Neem Oil: A natural insecticide and fungicide. It disrupts the feeding and growth of many insects. Apply as a preventative spray every 7-14 days.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that is toxic to caterpillars (like hornworms and fruitworms) when ingested. Harmless to people, pets, and beneficial insects.
Diatomaceous Earth (DE): A fine powder made from fossilized algae. It scratches the waxy coating of insects, causing them to dehydrate. Sprinkle around the base of plants for crawling pests; reapply after rain.
Homemade Sprays: A simple spray of water with a few drops of dish soap can deter many small pests. For rabbits and deer, a spray of blended garlic, hot peppers, and water can act as a repellent (reapply after rain).

When to Consider Other Options

If the problem is severe and localized, you might need to think about these.

Trapping: Live traps can be used for animals like groundhogs and rabbits. Check local regulations first, and you must have a plan for relocating the animal far away (at least 5 miles) to prevent its return.
Scare Tactics: Motion-activated sprinklers, reflective tape, or fake predators (owl decoys) can startle deer, birds, and squirrels. Move them regularly so animals don’t get used to them.
Companion Planting: While not a silver bullet, strong-smelling herbs like basil, mint, and rosemary planted nearby can help mask the scent of tomatoes from some pests.

A Season-Long Protection Plan

Here’s a simple timeline to keep your tomatoes safe from start to finish.

Before Planting (Spring)

Set up fences or raised beds if you have vertebrate pest problems.
Work compost into the soil to promote strong plant growth.
Plan your garden layout with companion flowers and herbs.

At Planting Time

Install cutworm collars on every seedling.
Place sturdy tomato cages or stakes at planting time to avoid disturbing roots later.
Apply a light layer of mulch to conserve moisture and deter some soil pests.

Early to Mid-Season (Growing Phase)

Inspect plants thoroughly at least twice a week for insect eggs or early damage.
Begin preventative neem oil or Bt sprays if you have a history of caterpillar issues.
Handpick any large pests you find immediatly.
Keep the garden area free of weeds, which can harbor pests.

Fruiting Season to Harvest

Switch focus to protecting the fruit. Watch for fruitworm damage and squirrel bites.
Consider using bird netting as tomatoes begin to ripen.
Harvest tomatoes as soon as they are ripe to remove the temptation.
Continue regular garden clean-up, removing any rotten or damaged fruit from the ground.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make these errors.

Overreacting to Minor Damage: A few holes in leaves won’t hurt the plant’s overall health. Avoid reaching for harsh chemicals at the first sign of a pest.
Ignoring the Soil: Unhealthy soil leads to weak plants that attract more pests. Focus on building soil health as your first line of defense.
Using Broad-Spectrum Pesticides: These kill beneficial insects along with the pests, often making the problem worse in the long run.
Not Identifying the Pest First: Applying a rabbit repellent for a hornworm problem is a waste of time and money. Always ID the culprit.
Forgetting to Reapply: Organic sprays and repellents break down. You must reapply them consistently, especially after rain, for them to remain effective.

FAQ: Your Tomato Pest Questions Answered

What is eating my tomato plants at night?

Nocturnal feeders include cutworms, hornworms (often feed at dusk/dawn), deer, rabbits, groundhogs, and slugs. Look for the specific type of damage and check for tracks or droppings in the morning.

How do I keep squirrels from eating my tomatoes?

Provide a distant water source, use bird netting, try a motion-activated sprinkler, or harvest tomatoes just before they fully ripen and let them finish indoors.

Will coffee grounds keep pests away?

They may deter slugs and snails due to texture, and their smell might confuse some pests. However, evidence is anecdotal. Its best used as a soil amendment in compost.

What can I spray on my tomato plants to keep bugs off?

A weekly spray of neem oil or insecticidal soap (as needed) is a good preventative. For caterpillars, use Bt. Always spray in the cooler parts of the day.

Do marigolds really keep pests away from tomatoes?

They can help! Their strong scent repels some nematodes (microscopic soil pests) and may confuse other insects. They also attract beneficial insects. Plant them as a border, not just one or two.

Why are there holes in my tomato leaves?

This is classic flea beetle damage. The holes are small, round, and look like the leaf was hit with fine buckshot. They rarely kill the plant but can stress young seedlings.

Protecting your tomato plants from hungry pests is an ongoing part of gardening. It requires observation, patience, and a willingness to try different strategies. By understanding what animals eat tomato plants and implementing a smart, layered defense, you can significantly reduce damage. The reward of harvesting perfect, sun-warmed tomatoes from your own garden is well worth the effort. Remember, a proactive gardener is the most powerful tool in the garden.