If you want a houseplant with truly spectacular flowers, look no further than the vanda orchid. Known for their exotic and vibrant blooms, these orchids are a stunning centerpiece for any plant collection.
Their large, round flowers come in brilliant purples, blues, oranges, and reds, often with intricate patterns. Unlike many orchids, Vandas typically flower multiple times a year, giving you long-lasting displays of color. While they have a reputation for being challenging, understanding their simple needs is the key to success.
Vanda Orchid – Exotic and Vibrant Blooms
This heading isn’t just for show—it perfectly captures their essence. What makes a Vanda so distinct? First, they are monopodial, meaning they grow upward from a single stem. They produce thick, cord-like roots that love to dangle freely in the air. These roots are a big clue to their care: they thrive in conditions that mimic their native tropical Asian habitats, clinging to tree branches in bright, humid jungles.
Choosing Your First Vanda Orchid
Starting with a healthy plant makes all the difference. Here’s what to look for when you buy one:
- Strong Roots: Seek out plants with plentiful, firm, silvery-green or green roots. Avoid plants with shriveled, brown, or mushy roots.
- Foliage: Leaves should be a uniform green, firm, and free of spots or streaks. A few lower leaves turning yellow is normal aging.
- Growth Stage: For instant gratification, choose a plant in bud or bloom. For a longer-term project, a non-blooming plant with strong roots is a great, often cheaper, option.
Common types for beginners include Vanda coerulea (known for its blue flowers) and hybrids like Vanda ‘Miss Joaquim,’ which is quite resilient. Don’t be afraid to ask the grower for their specific care tips, as they know that plants history best.
The Perfect Light: Bright but Indirect
Light is the most critical factor for getting those exotic and vibrant blooms. Vandas need abundant light to flower well.
- Ideal Location: An east-facing window is perfect. A south or west window can work if you use a sheer curtain to diffuse the strongest afternoon sun.
- Signs of Correct Light: Leaves are a medium grassy green. If they turn yellow or develop black spots, the light is too strong. Dark green, limp leaves indicate too little light.
- Supplemental Light: If you lack natural light, a full-spectrum grow light placed 6-12 inches above the plant for 12-14 hours a day works wonders.
Watering and Humidity: Getting the Balance Right
This is where many new Vanda growers stumble. Their thick, exposed roots are designed to absorb moisture quickly from rain and humid air. They hate being soggy.
- Watering Method: The best way is to soak the entire root system in a bucket or sink of lukewarm water for 20-30 minutes. Do this in the morning so the roots dry by nightfall.
- Frequency: In warm, sunny weather, you may need to water daily. In cooler, cloudy periods, every 2-3 days is enough. The roots should turn from silvery-green to bright green during soaking.
- Humidity is Key: Aim for 60-80% humidity. Use a humidifier, or place the plant on a large pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot isn’t sitting in the water).
Misting alone is not sufficient and can lead to crown rot if water collects in the leaf joints. Focus on root soaking and ambient humidity instead.
Warm Temperatures and Good Air Movement
Vandas prefer it warm, similar to their tropical origins. They thrive in daytime temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C) and nighttime temps not below 60°F (15°C). A slight drop at night can help trigger blooming.
Good air circulation is non-negotiable. It prevents fungal and bacterial diseases by helping the roots dry efficiently after watering. A gentle ceiling fan or an oscillating fan set on low nearby is perfect. Just avoid pointing a strong fan directly at the plant.
Fertilizing for Spectacular Flowers
To support their rapid growth and heavy blooming, Vandas are heavy feeders. But you must use a light hand to avoid burning those sensitive roots.
- Type: Use a balanced orchid fertilizer (like 20-20-20) or one slightly higher in nitrogen for growth (e.g., 30-10-10).
- Method: The golden rule is “Fertilize weakly, weekly.” Add a quarter-strength dose of fertilizer to your soaking water once a week during the growing season (spring and summer).
- Flushing: Once a month, skip the fertilizer and soak the roots in plain water to flush out any salt buildup from the fertilizer.
Potting and Mounting: To Pot or Not to Pot?
Traditional clay pots with large holes or slatted wooden baskets are common choices, but many experts prefer no pot at all. Vandas can be grown beautifully mounted on a piece of cork bark or tree fern plaque, allowing their roots maximum air flow. This method requires more frequent watering but mimics their natural habitat closely.
If you do use a basket, use a very coarse potting medium like large charcoal chunks or lava rock, or use nothing at all. The goal is to provide support without holding moisture around the roots. Repotting is rarely needed; only consider it if the medium has broken down or the plant has severely outgrown its basket.
Encouraging and Managing Blooms
When your care is right, your reward is those incredible flowers. A spike will emerge from the stem between the leaves. Here’s how to handle it:
- Once the spike appears, continue your normal care routine. You might see it grow surprisingly fast.
- Provide a stake for support if the spike becomes long and heavy.
- After the flowers fade, you can cut the spike back to the base. Sometimes, a secondary spike may emerge from a lower node.
If your Vanda isn’t blooming, reassess its light first, then nutrition. Insufficient light is the number one cause for no flowers. Also, ensure the temperature drop at night is occuring; consistent warmth can sometimes inhibit blooming.
Common Problems and Simple Solutions
Even with great care, issues can arise. Here’s a quick trouble-shooting guide:
- Wrinkled, Shriveled Leaves: This is a classic sign of underwatering or root loss. Check your roots. Healthy roots plump up when wet; dead roots are brown and papery.
- Root Rot: Caused by poor drainage, lack of air flow, or overwatering. Cut away any mushy roots with sterile tools and improve your drying conditions.
- Leaf Spot or Fungus: Often due to water sitting on leaves or poor air circulation. Increase fan speed, water in the morning, and avoid wetting the leaves.
- Pests: Watch for scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap, applied carefully to the roots and leaves.
FAQ About Vanda Orchids
How often do Vanda orchids bloom?
With good care, a healthy Vanda can bloom 2 to 3 times a year, with each flower spike lasting for several weeks.
Can I grow a Vanda orchid indoors?
Absolutely. They do very well indoors if you can provide enough bright light (a south or east window is ideal) and maintain adequate humidity levels.
Why are the roots on my Vanda turning white?
The outer layer of the root, called the velamen, is silvery-white when dry. This is normal. It should turn green when wet. Only be concerned if the roots feel hollow or mushy.
Should I cut the aerial roots?
No! Never cut healthy aerial roots. These are vital for the plant to absorb water and nutrients. They are a sign of a happy, growing orchid.
What’s the best fertilizer for vibrant Vanda blooms?
A balanced orchid fertilizer applied weekly at a weak strength is best. Some growers switch to a bloom-booster formula (higher in phosphorus) as the flowering season approaches.
Growing a Vanda orchid is a rewarding journey. It asks for a bit more attention than a typical houseplant, but the payoff—those breathtaking, exotic and vibrant blooms—is worth every moment. Start with a robust plant, give it bright light, plenty of soaks, and good air, and you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of Vanda care.