If you’re thinking about growing avocados at home, understanding the difference between type a and b avocado trees is your first step to success. This simple concept is the key to getting more fruit from your garden.
Avocado trees have a unique flowering behavior. To maximize pollination and fruit set, it helps to have both types. Don’t worry, it’s less complicated than it sounds. This guide will explain everything in plain language.
You’ll learn how to choose the right trees, plant them, and care for them. We’ll cover practical tips for home gardeners in different climates. Let’s get started on your avocado journey.
Type A and B Avocado Trees
Avocado trees are categorized as either Type A or Type B based on their flower’s blooming pattern. All avocado flowers have both male and female parts, but they open at different times of the day to avoid self-pollination. This is called “protogynous dichogamy.”
Knowing this helps you plan your garden for better harvests.
What Does Type A Mean?
Type A avocado flowers open as female in the morning of the first day. They are receptive to pollen. Then they close. The following afternoon, the same flower re-opens as a male, shedding its pollen.
- Female Phase: Morning of Day One.
- Male Phase: Afternoon of Day Two.
- Common Type A Varieties: Hass, Gwen, Pinkerton, Reed.
What Does Type B Mean?
Type B avocado flowers do the opposite. They open as female in the afternoon of the first day. After closing, they re-open the next morning as males.
- Female Phase: Afternoon of Day One.
- Male Phase: Morning of Day Two.
- Common Type B Varieties: Fuerte, Sharwil, Zutano, Bacon, Sir Prize.
Why This Matters for Pollination
When a Type A tree is in its female phase (morning), a nearby Type B tree is in its male phase (morning), ready to provide pollen. The overlap increases the chance for cross-pollination. This often leads to a heavier, more reliable fruit set.
You can still get fruit from a single tree, but having a partner usually gives you more avocados. It’s like giving your trees a helping hand.
Choosing Varieties for Your Garden
Your choice depends on your climate and taste. Hass (Type A) is the most popular grocery store avocado. Fuerte (Type B) is a classic, creamy green-skinned type. For cold areas, Bacon (Type B) is very frost-tolerant.
Always check your USDA Hardiness Zone. Most avocados need zones 9-11, but some handle zone 8 with protection.
Planning and Planting Your Avocado Trees
Site Selection is Critical
Avocados need full sun, at least 6-8 hours of direct light daily. They hate wet feet, so drainage is non-negotiable. Avoid any spot where water pools after rain.
A south-facing slope is ideal. Protect them from strong winds, which can damage branches and flowers.
The Planting Process Step-by-Step
- Dig a Hole: Make it three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the container. Mounding the soil in the hole’s center helps.
- Prep the Tree: Gently remove it from the pot. Loosen any circling roots on the outer edge. If the roots are very tight, make a few vertical cuts.
- Position the Tree: Place it so the root ball’s top is slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep is a common cause of failure.
- Backfill: Use the native soil unless it’s pure clay. Do not amend the backfill soil heavily; you want roots to adapt to the native ground.
- Water Deeply: Create a watering basin and soak the area thoroughly to settle the soil.
- Mulch: Apply 3-4 inches of coarse mulch (like wood chips) around the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
Spacing for Home Gardens
Give your trees room to grow. Standard trees need 15-20 feet between them. Dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties can be spaced 10-12 feet apart. Remember, they get big!
If space is limited, consider planting just one tree and hand-pollinating, or choose a dwarf variety in a large container.
Caring for Your Avocado Trees
Watering Wisdom
Young trees need regular watering to establish. Water deeply once or twice a week. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings.
Mature trees have deeper roots but still need consistent moisture, especially during flowering and fruit set. Overwatering is as dangerous as underwatering—it causes root rot.
Feeding Your Trees
Avocados need a balanced, zinc-rich fertilizer. Use a citrus and avocado food, following label instructions. A general rule is to feed three times a year: late winter, early summer, and early fall.
Yellowing leaves can indicate an iron deficiency, common in alkaline soils. A chelated iron supplement can help correct this.
Pruning for Health and Shape
Prune in late winter or early spring before the major flush of growth. The goal is to remove dead wood, open the canopy for light, and control height.
- Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar.
- Never remove more than 1/3 of the canopy in one year.
- Pinch tips on young trees to encourage bushier growth.
Managing Pests and Problems
Avocados have few serious pests. Root rot from poor drainage is the biggest threat. Watch for scale insects or mites; a strong spray of water or horticultural oil can manage them.
Squirrels and rats may go after the fruit. Trimming branches away from fences and using trunk guards can deter them.
Special Considerations for Containers and Colder Climates
Growing in Pots
You can grow dwarf varieties like Wurtz (Little Cado, a Type A) in large containers. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. Choose a pot at least 24 inches in diameter with excellent drainage holes.
Container trees need more frequent watering and feeding. They are also more suseptible to cold, so you can move them indoors during a freeze.
Frost Protection Tips
Avocados are subtropical. Young trees are especially tender. To protect them from a freeze:
- Water the soil deeply before a frost—wet soil holds heat better.
- Cover the tree with frost cloth or blankets, securing it to the ground.
- Use outdoor-rated holiday lights (incandescent or C9) under the cover for added warmth.
- Mulch heavily over the root zone to insulate it.
From Flowers to Fruit: The Harvest
The Pollination Process in Action
With both type a and b avocado trees nearby, bees and other pollinators transfer pollen between them during the overlapping open phases. This cross-pollination can significantly increase the number of fruit that “set” and don’t drop.
If you only have one tree, you may still get fruit, but the yield might be lower. Gentle shaking of branches during flowering can help disperse pollen.
When Will You Get Fruit?
Grafted trees from a nursery may produce fruit in 2-4 years. Trees grown from seed can take 10 years or more, and the fruit quality is unpredictable. Patience is essential.
The fruit develops over a long period, often 6-12 months after flowering. Don’t be alarmed by a natural fruit drop in early summer; the tree is shedding what it cannot support.
How to Know When Avocados Are Ready
Avocados do not ripen on the tree. They mature on the tree but only soften after picking. To test, pick one large, dark fruit and leave it on your counter.
If it ripens evenly and tastes good within a week or two, the others on the tree are ready to harvest. Cut maturity varies; Hass turns black, while green-skinned types stay green.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I grow an avocado tree from a store-bought seed?
Yes, you can grow a lovely houseplant from a seed. However, it will likely not produce fruit for many years, if ever, and the fruit quality will not be true to the parent. For fruit, buy a grafted tree from a reputable nursery.
Do I absolutely need two trees to get fruit?
No, many avocado varieties are somewhat self-fertile and can set fruit alone. However, having a Type A and a Type B partner tree will almost always give you a much better and more reliable harvest. It’s highly recommended.
What is the best Type B tree to plant with a Hass?
Good partners for Hass (Type A) include Bacon, Zutano, or Fuerte (all Type B). Bacon is a great choice for cooler climates due to its cold tolerance.
How much space do I really need?
Avocado trees can become very large. For standard trees, plan for a 25-foot spread. If you have limited space, look for columnar or dwarf varieties, or be prepared for regular, heavy pruning to manage size.
Why are the leaves on my avocado tree turning brown at the tips?
Tip burn is often a sign of salt accumulation or fluoride in water, common with avocados. Use rainwater or distilled water to flush the soil occasionally if your tap water is hard. It can also indicate underwatering.
Can I plant two trees in one hole to save space?
This technique, called “multi-planting,” is sometimes used. Plant a Type A and Type B about 2-3 feet apart in a single large hole. They will grow as one canopy but maintain seperate root systems. It requires careful pruning to manage.
Growing type a and b avocado trees is a rewarding project for any home gardener. By understanding their basic needs and flowering types, you set yourself up for a much better chance of success. Start with good soil, proper planting, and consistent care.
Remember, gardening is a learning process. Your trees might not produce a huge crop in the first year, and that’s okay. Pay attention to what they’re telling you through their leaves and growth. With time and patience, you’ll be harvesting your own creamy avocados right from the backyard.