Moving a fern to a new spot can feel a bit nerve-wracking, but with the right know-how, it’s very doable. For anyone considering transplanting ferns, a few expert tips can make the difference between a thriving plant and a disappointing one. These ancient plants are tougher than they look, but they do appreciate a gentle hand and good timing.
The key to success lies in understanding their simple needs: the right time, a careful process, and proper aftercare. Let’s walk through everything you need to know to give your ferns the best fresh start.
Transplanting Ferns
The first step is knowing when to make your move. Getting this right reduces stress on the plant and gives it the best conditions to recover.
Choosing the Perfect Time to Transplant
The ideal time is during the fern’s dormant period or when it’s putting on gentle, new growth. This is usually in early spring, just as new fiddleheads (the tightly coiled new fronds) begin to emerge from the soil. The soil is moist from spring rains, temperatures are mild, and the plant has a full growing season ahead to establish its roots.
Fall is also a good option, especially in warmer climates. Aim for several weeks before the first hard frost. This allows the roots to settle in without the demands of supporting top growth. The absolute worst times are during the heat of summer or the depths of winter. Summer transplanting forces the fern to cope with heat stress and water loss, while frozen winter soil makes the job difficult and can damage the rootball.
Pre-Transplant Preparation
A little prep work before you lift a single shovel makes the whole process smoother.
* Water Deeply: One or two days before the move, give your fern a thorough, deep watering. This ensures the plant is fully hydrated and helps the soil hold together around the roots.
* Prepare the New Home First: Dig the new planting hole before you dig up the fern. This minimizes the time the roots are exposed to air. The new hole should be about twice as wide as the fern’s expected rootball and just as deep.
* Gather Your Tools: Have everything you need ready:
* A sharp shovel or spade
* A tarp or bucket for moving the plant
* Watering can or hose
* Organic matter like compost or leaf mold
* Pruning shears (clean and sharp)
The Step-by-Step Transplanting Process
Follow these steps carefully for a seamless transition.
1. Dig Up the Fern. Start by digging a wide circle around the plant, about 6 to 12 inches from the base, depending on the fern’s size. Your goal is to get as much of the rootball as possible. Push your shovel straight down to slice through roots cleanly, then work your way around. Once you’ve cut the circle, angle your shovel underneath and gently pry the rootball up.
2. Lift and Move. Carefully lift the fern onto your tarp or into a bucket. Try to keep the rootball intact. If you’re moving it a long distance, lightly moisten the roots and cover them to prevent drying out.
3. Place in the New Hole. Set the fern into its new hole. The top of the rootball should be level with the surrounding soil surface, not buried deeper. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can cause the crown to rot.
4. Backfill and Water. Mix some compost with the native soil you removed. Backfill around the roots with this mixture, gently firming it as you go to eliminate large air pockets. When the hole is half full, water it well to help settle the soil. Then finish backfilling and water again deeply.
Essential Aftercare for Success
Your job isn’t done once the fern is in the ground. The first few weeks are critical.
* Water Consistently: Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) for the first entire growing season. This might mean watering every other day for the first two weeks, then tapering off as you see new growth.
* Apply Mulch: Spread a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, like shredded bark or leaf litter, around the base of the plant. This keeps the soil cool, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds. Keep the mulch a couple inches away from the crown to avoid rot.
* Hold Off on Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize right after transplanting. You can give it a light feeding with a balanced, diluted fertilizer in late spring or early summer, once it shows clear signs of new growth.
* Provide Shade: If you’re moving the fern to a sunnier location than it’s used to, provide temporary shade for a week or two using a shade cloth or even a propped-up board.
Troubleshooting Common Transplant Problems
Even with care, ferns sometimes protest. Here’s what to look for.
* Wilting or Drooping Fronds: This is normal shock. Maintain consistent moisture and provide shade if needed. You can trim off any fronds that completely die back.
* Yellowing Fronds: Often a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Ensure the soil is moist, not waterlogged. Yellowing can also indicate to much sun.
* No New Growth: Be patient. Ferns often focus energy on root establishment first. If you see no new growth after a month or two in the growing season, check that the crown isn’t buried and that the soil moisture is adequate.
Special Considerations for Different Fern Types
Not all ferns are exactly the same. Here’s a quick guide for common varieties.
* Woodland Ferns (e.g., Lady Fern, Christmas Fern): These thrive in dappled shade and rich, woodsy soil. Ample compost is your friend.
* Crown-Forming Ferns (e.g., Ostrich Fern): Be very careful not to bury the central crown. They spread by underground runners and can be quite vigorous.
* Clumping Ferns (e.g., Autumn Fern): These stay in a neat mound. You can often divide them when transplanting by gently pulling or cutting the rootball into sections, each with several fronds and healthy roots.
* Container Ferns: The process is similar. Water well, tip the pot, and gently ease the plant out. Loosen any circling roots before planting in the ground.
FAQ: Your Transplanting Questions Answered
Can I transplant a large, mature fern?
Yes, but it’s more challenging. You’ll need to dig a very wide rootball to preserve enough roots. It may take longer to recover. Sometimes, dividing a large fern into smaller sections is a smarter approach.
How deep should I plant my fern?
Always plant at the same depth it was growing before. The crown (where the roots meet the fronds) should be right at the soil surface.
Is it okay to divide ferns when I transplant them?
Absolutely. Early spring is the best time to divide. Ensure each division has a good section of roots and at least a few healthy fronds or growing buds.
My transplanted fern lost all its fronds. Is it dead?
Not necessarily. Check the crown. If it’s still firm and green or has tiny fiddleheads, it may regrow. Keep the soil moist and wait.
What’s the best soil mix for transplanted ferns?
Most ferns prefer soil that is rich in organic matter and drains well yet retains moisture. A mix of garden soil, compost, and a little leaf mold is perfect.
Transplanting ferns successfully is a rewarding garden task. By choosing the right moment, handling the roots with care, and providing attentive aftercare, you’ll give these graceful plants a strong foundation in their new location. Remember, the goal is to mimick their natural, forest-floor environment as much as possible. With a bit of patience, you’ll soon see new, unfurling fronds as a sign your efforts have paid off.