If your landscape’s reliable evergreens are suddenly looking sickly, you’re not alone. Many gardeners face the issue of Taxus yews turning brown, and it can be a worrying sight. These classic shrubs are usually tough, but when they start to discolor, it’s a clear signal they need some attention. Let’s figure out what’s going wrong and how you can help them recover.
The good news is that brown yews often can be saved if you act quickly. The causes range from simple environmental stress to more serious pest problems. By learning to identify the specific symptoms, you can choose the right treatment and hopefully restore your plants health.
Taxus Yews Turning Brown
This broad symptom can have many different causes. The pattern, timing, and location of the browning are your best clues. Here’s a breakdown of the most common reasons your yew is changing color.
Environmental and Water-Related Stress
Often, the problem isn’t a bug or disease but the conditions the plant is living in.
* Drought Stress: Yews need consistent moisture, especially when newly planted or during hot, dry spells. Browning often starts at the needle tips and progresses inward, typically appearing on the upper or outer parts of the plant first.
* Winter Burn (Desiccation): This is very common. Frozen ground and dry winter winds pull moisture from the needles, but the roots can’t replace it. The browning is usually on the side facing the prevailing wind or the sun (southwest side).
* Root Rot from Overwatering or Poor Drainage: Yews hate “wet feet.” Soggy soil suffocates roots, leading to a general decline, yellowing, then browning of needles, often starting from the bottom and inside of the plant. This can be the hardest to fix.
* Salt Damage: Road salt spray or de-icing salt runoff can cause severe browning on the side facing the road or driveway.
Pest Infestations
Two tiny pests are the usual suspects for widespread browning on yews.
Black Vine Weevil:
The adult weevil notches leaf edges, but the real damage is done underground. The white, C-shaped larvae feed on the roots, severing the plants water supply. The plant first wilts and turns grayish-green, then browns and dies, often in sections.
Taxus Mealybug:
These small, white, cottony insects suck sap from the stems and needles. Infestations cause needle yellowing and browning, branch dieback, and are often accompanied by sooty mold. Check the undersides of branches and needle joints.
Diseases
Fungal diseases can also be to blame, particularly in wet, humid conditions.
* Phytophthora Root Rot: A soil-borne fungus that attacks roots in poorly drained sites. Symptoms mimic other root rots: stunted growth, sparse foliage, and a gradual browning.
* Needle Blight: Fungi cause individual needles to turn brown or purplish, often with black fruiting bodies visible. It usually starts on lower, inner branches where air circulation is poor.
Other Potential Causes
Don’t overlook these possibilites:
* Animal Damage: Voles and rabbits gnaw on bark and roots, girdling branches or stems, which causes everything above the damage to brown and die.
* Nutrient Deficiency: Severe lack of certain nutrients (like nitrogen) can cause overall yellowing or browning, but this is less common in established yews.
* Chemical Injury: Herbicide drift from lawn weed killers can cause distorted growth and browning.
How to Diagnose Your Brown Yew
Follow these steps to play plant detective:
1. Look at the Pattern. Is the browning on one side, the tips, the bottom, or all over? Winter burn is often one-sided; root issues start from the bottom up.
2. Check the Timing. Did it happen suddenly after a hard winter or a dry summer? Or has it been progressing slowly for months?
3. Inspect the Roots. Gently dig near the base. Are the roots firm and white or brown, mushy, and smelly? Do you see any grubs?
4. Examine Branches and Needles. Look closely for tiny insects, cottony masses, or holes in the bark. Scratch a brown branch with your fingernail; is the wood underneath green or brown?
5. Consider Recent Changes. Has there been construction, grade changes, or new planting nearby that could have affected water flow or damaged roots?
Treatment and Recovery Steps
Your action plan depends entirely on your diagnosis.
For Environmental Stress:
* Water Deeply: During dry periods, give your yew a long, slow soak once a week. Avoid frequent light sprinklings.
* Improve Drainage: If the site is soggy, consider transplanting to a raised bed or a better-drained location.
* Protect from Winter Wind: Use burlap screens on the windward side or apply an anti-desiccant spray in late fall.
* Flush Salt: In early spring, soak the soil thoroughly to dilute any salt accumulation.
For Pest Problems:
* Black Vine Weevil: Control is tricky. For larvae, beneficial nematodes applied to the soil can be effective. For adults, which feed at night, inspect with a flashlight and remove them.
* Taxus Mealybug: Apply horticultural oil (like neem oil) in the late spring or summer, thoroughly coating the undersides of branches. Severe infestations may require a systemic insecticide.
For Suspected Diseases:
* Prune Out Affected Parts: Remove brown branches, cutting back into healthy green wood. Sterilize your pruners between cuts with a bleach solution.
* Improve Air Flow: Thin out dense interior growth to allow better circulation.
* Fungicides: These are usually preventative, not curative. For root rot, reducing soil moisture is the primary treatment.
General Recovery Care:
* Prune Carefully: In early spring, prune out dead material to encourage new growth. Yews can bud back from old wood, so don’t be afraid to cut branches back hard if needed.
* Apply Mulch: A 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (like wood chips) around the base helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep it away from the trunk.
* Fertilize Gently: Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring to support recovery, but avoid heavy feeding which can stress the plant further.
Prevention is the Best Medicine
Keeping your yews healthy from the start is much easier than fixing a problem.
* Plant in the Right Spot: Choose a site with well-drained soil and partial to full sun. Avoid low, wet areas.
* Water Wisely: Establish a deep watering routine for the first few years and during droughts.
* Monitor Regularly: Take a few minutes each week to look for early signs of pests or discoloration. Early action is key.
* Avoid Root Disturbance: Yews have shallow roots. Avoid cultivating soil or planting other plants too close to their base.
Seeing your Taxus yews turning brown is discouraging, but it’s rarely a hopeless situation. By carefully observing the symptoms, identifying the true cause, and taking targeted action, you can often nurse these resilient shrubs back to health. With some adjusted care and a little patience, you can enjoy their deep green beauty for many more years to come.
FAQ: Common Questions About Yew Discoloration
Q: Will the brown needles on my yew turn green again?
A: No, once a needle turns brown, it is dead and will not recover. The goal is to encourage new green growth from the buds, which will eventually cover the damaged areas.
Q: How far back can I prune a brown yew?
A: Yews are unique because they can sprout new growth from old, bare wood. You can prune branches back by half or even more if necessary. Just make sure you cut back to a point where there is still some green growth or, if not, to a healthy-looking bud or side branch.
Q: My yew is brown on the inside but green on the outside. Is this normal?
A: Yes, to some extent. It’s common for yews to naturally shed their older, inner needles as they focus energy on new outer growth. This usually happens in late spring or early summer. However, if the inner browning is excessive or accompanied by other symptoms, it could indicate a lack of light or poor air circulation.
Q: Can a completely brown yew be saved?
A: It depends on the cause and if there’s any life left. Scratch the bark on several major branches. If the layer underneath (the cambium) is green, there is hope. If it’s brown and dry all the way through, that branch or the entire plant is likely dead.
Q: What’s the difference between winter burn and root rot?
A: Winter burn typically causes browning on the exposed, windy side of the plant, with the protected side remaining green. Root rot causes a more general decline, often starting with yellowing and browning from the lower branches upward, and the plant may look generally unhealthy.