If you’re looking for a truly special houseplant that combines stunning looks with a sweet treat for the senses, the strawberry shake plant is a perfect choice. This Philodendron hybrid is famous for its deliciously sweet and creamy variegation, offering a splash of color that’s anything but ordinary.
Its large, heart-shaped leaves are a canvas of deep green, painted with streaks and splashes of creamy yellow and soft pink. The effect really does remind you of a strawberry milkshake. It’s a tropical showstopper that can become the centerpiece of any plant collection, though it does ask for a little specific care in return.
Strawberry Shake Plant
This plant, officially known as Philodendron ‘Strawberry Shake’, is a rare and sought-after cultivar. It’s a self-heading philodendron, meaning it grows in a more upright, clustering form rather than as a long vine. Each new leaf is an exciting event, as you never quite know how the variegation will express itself. Some leaves may be half creamy-pink, while others show just a delicate speckling.
The key to its beauty—and its care requirements—lies in that stunning variegation. The creamy and pink parts lack chlorophyll, the green pigment plants use to make food. This means the plant has less surface area for photosynthesis. In practice, it needs a bit more light than a solid green philodendron to produce the energy it needs to support those beautiful leaves and grow well.
Ideal Growing Conditions for Your Plant
Getting the environment right is the first step to a healthy, vibrant specimen. Think about the dappled sunlight of a tropical forest floor—this is what we’re aiming to replicate in your home.
Light is the most critical factor. Your strawberry shake plant needs bright, indirect light to thrive. A spot near an east or west-facing window is usually ideal. A few hours of gentle morning sun can be beneficial, but you must avoid harsh direct afternoon sun. It can quickly scorch those delicate, lightly colored leaves. If the light is too low, the plant will become leggy and may revert to producing more green leaves to survive.
Warmth and humidity are next on the list. Aim to keep your room temperature between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from doors or windows in winter. As for humidity, levels above 60% will make your plant happiest. You can increase humidity by using a pebble tray filled with water placed under the pot, grouping it with other plants, or running a small humidifier nearby. Misting can help a little, but it’s not a long-term solution and can sometimes promote fungal issues if overdone.
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil Mix
This philodendron needs a potting mix that holds some moisture but drains exceptionally well. Its roots need access to air and water, but they should never sit in soggy soil. A good, simple recipe is to mix:
* 2 parts high-quality indoor potting soil
* 1 part perlite (for aeration and drainage)
* 1 part orchid bark (to create air pockets and mimic its natural habitat)
When it comes to a pot, always choose one with drainage holes. A plastic or glazed ceramic pot will retain moisture a bit longer, while a terracotta pot allows the soil to dry out more quickly, which can be helpful if you tend to overwater. Repotting is typically needed every 1-2 years, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot.
Watering and Feeding Schedule
Watering is where many plant enthusiasts run into trouble. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. A good method is the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly until you see it run out of the drainage holes, then empty the saucer underneath after a few minutes.
During the active growing season (spring and summer), you can feed your plant a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks. In fall and winter, when growth slows, reduce feeding to once every 8-10 weeks or stop altogether. Over-fertilizing can damage the roots and cause unsightly salt build-up in the soil, which you’ll see as a white crust on the surface.
Pruning and Maintenance Tips
Pruning is mostly about aesthetics and health for this plant. You can remove any leaves that are mostly or entirely brown and crispy. If you get a leaf that reverts to full green, you can prune it off if you wish to encourage the plant to put energy into more variegated growth. Always use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make clean cuts.
To keep those gorgeous leaves looking their best, gently dust them with a soft, damp cloth every couple of weeks. This allows the leaf to breathe and absorb more light. Avoid using leaf shine products, as they can clog the pores.
How to Propagate Your Philodendron
Propagation is usually done through stem cuttings. It’s a rewarding way to create new plants. Here’s a simple step-by-step guide:
1. Identify a healthy stem with at least one node (the little bump where leaves and roots grow from) and 2-3 leaves.
2. Using a sterile blade, cut just below a node.
3. Place the cutting in a glass of clean water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaves are not.
4. Put the glass in a spot with bright, indirect light and change the water every few days.
5. In a few weeks, you should see roots beginning to sprout from the node. Once the roots are an inch or two long, you can pot the cutting in your well-draining soil mix.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with great care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to diagnose and fix them:
Yellowing Leaves: This is often a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture and ensure your pot drains properly. Let the soil dry out a bit more between waterings.
Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges: Usually caused by low humidity or underwatering. Increase your humidity efforts and check your watering frequency.
Leggy Growth with Small Leaves: This signals not enough light. Move your plant gradually to a brighter location (but still out of direct sun).
Pests: Keep an eye out for common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips. Wipe leaves regularly and, if you spot pests, treat promptly with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is the strawberry shake philodendron toxic?
A: Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. It’s best to keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.
Q: Why is my strawberry shake plant not showing pink color?
A: Insufficient light is the most common reason. The pink and cream variegation needs bright, indirect light to develop and maintain its intensity. A plant that is reverting will produce more green leaves.
Q: How fast does a strawberry shake philodendron grow?
A: Growth speed is moderate, especially compared to some other philodendrons. With ideal conditions, you might see a new leaf every few weeks during the growing season. The variegation means it photosynthesizes slower than all-green plants.
Q: Where can I buy a philodendron strawberry shake plant?
A: Due to its rarity, you won’t typically find it at standard garden centers. Check specialized online plant shops, Etsy, or local plant swap groups. Be prepared for a higher price tag due to its demand.
Q: Can I grow it in a terrarium?
A: While it loves humidity, its mature size is too large for most closed terrariums. It could work in a very large, open-terrarium setting or a paludarium with excellent air flow.
Caring for a strawberry shake plant is a rewarding experience for any indoor gardener. Its spectacular foliage provides a constant, beautiful reminder of the sweet spot between challenge and reward. By providing the right balance of light, humidity, and careful watering, you’ll be able to enjoy its deliciously sweet and creamy colors for many years to come. Remember, patience is key—each new leaf is a unique work of art, and watching them unfurl is a big part of the joy.