Philodendron Splendid

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a dramatic statement, few can compete with the sheer presence of a philodendron splendid. This stunningly large and beautiful hybrid is a favorite among collectors for good reason. Its massive, velvety leaves have a captivating color shift that commands attention in any room.

But its beauty comes with specific needs. This guide will walk you through everything required to keep your philodendron splendid thriving, not just surviving. We’ll cover its ideal environment, care routines, and how to manage its impressive growth.

Before we get into care, let’s understand what makes this plant special. The philodendron splendid is a hybrid, often thought to be a cross between Philodendron verrucosum and Philodendron melanochrysum. It inherits the best traits from both parents.

You get the deep, velvety texture and striking veins from the verrucosum. From the melanochrysum, it gets its potential for large, heart-shaped leaves. The result is a fast-growing climber with phenomenal foliage.

Identifying Your Philodendron Splendid

New leaves emerge a bright, coppery-red or pinkish color. As they mature, they darken to a deep, almost blackish-green on the top surface. The underside remains a contrasting rusty red or burgundy.

The leaves are heart-shaped and can grow over two feet long in ideal conditions. They feel like soft suede to the touch. The stems are often a reddish-green and may have a slightly fuzzy texture.

Light: The Key to Magnificent Leaves

Light is the most important factor for a healthy, stunning philodendron splendid. It needs bright, indirect light to produce those large, colorful leaves.

Direct sun, especially harsh afternoon rays, will quickly scorch the delicate velvet leaves. This causes ugly brown or yellow patches that do not heal.

Ideal Placement: An east-facing window is perfect. A north-facing window might be too dim. For south or west windows, place the plant several feet back or use a sheer curtain as a filter.
Signs of Too Much Light: Fading leaf color, scorch marks, or leaves that feel crispy.
Signs of Too Little Light: Smaller new leaves, longer spaces between leaves (leggy growth), and a loss of the vibrant red undersides. The plant may also stop growing.

If you don’t have enough natural light, consider using a grow light. LED full-spectrum lights are energy-efficient and effective. Aim for 12-14 hours of artificial light per day.

Watering: Finding the Balance

Watering correctly is crucial. The philodendron splendid likes consistent moisture but despises soggy roots. Its watering needs change with the seasons, light, and temperature.

The best method is the “finger test.” Stick your finger about two inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it still feels damp, wait a few more days.

Use room-temperature water. Cold water can shock the roots.
Water thoroughly until you see it running out of the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15-20 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water.

In winter, when growth slows, you will water much less frequently. Overwatering is the fastest way to cause root rot, which can kill the plant.

Humidity: Recreating the Jungle

As a tropical plant, the philodendron splendid thrives in high humidity. Aim for 60% or higher. Average home humidity (around 30-40%) is often too low, leading to crispy leaf edges.

Humidifier: The most effective and consistent solution. Place it near your plant group.
Pebble Tray: Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water. Place the pot on top, ensuring the pot’s base is not sitting in the water.
Grouping Plants: Cluster your humidity-loving plants together. They create a beneficial microclimate.
Bathroom or Kitchen: If these rooms have good light, the naturally higher humidity from showers and cooking is ideal.

Misting is not very effective for raising long-term humidity and can promote fungal issues on velvety leaves. It’s better to focus on the methods above.

Soil and Potting Needs

The right soil mix provides oxygen to the roots and prevents waterlogging. A standard houseplant potting soil is too dense on its own.

You need a chunky, airy, and well-draining mix. Here’s a simple recipe you can make at home:

40% high-quality potting soil
30% orchid bark (for aeration)
20% perlite or pumice (for drainage)
10% horticultural charcoal (optional, but helps keep the mix fresh)

This mix allows water to flow through quickly while retaining just enough moisture for the roots.

Choosing the Right Pot

Always use a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent because they are porous, allowing the soil to dry more evenly. Plastic or ceramic pots retain moisture longer, so you must adjust your watering.

Repot your philodendron splendid every 1-2 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Only go up one pot size (about 2 inches wider in diameter). A pot that’s too large holds excess soil that stays wet and causes rot.

Fertilizing for Growth and Color

During the active growing season (spring and summer), your plant needs nutrients to support its large leaves. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer works well.

Choose a fertilizer with an equal NPK ratio, like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20.
Dilute it to half the strength recommended on the bottle. Philodendrons are sensitive to fertilizer burn.
Apply this diluted fertilizer every 4-6 weeks from spring to early fall.
Stop fertilizing completely in late fall and winter. The plant is resting and won’t use the nutrients.

You can also use a slow-release fertilizer sprinkled on the soil surface in spring. It provides nutrients gradually over several months.

Support and Training: Let It Climb

The philodendron splendid is a natural climber. In the wild, it grows up tree trunks. Providing a support mimics this habit and encourages larger, healthier leaves.

Moss Pole: The best option. The aerial roots can attach to the moist moss, drawing additional moisture and nutrients. Keep the pole damp.
Coco Coir Pole or Wooden Plank: Also good choices, though they may not hold moisture as well as moss.

To train your plant, gently tie the main stem to the pole using soft plant ties or strips of fabric. Don’t use wire or string that can cut into the stem. As it grows, continue to secure it.

You’ll notice that leaves on a supported plant grow significantly larger than those on an unsupported, trailing plant.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is mainly for shape and size control. You can also remove any old, yellowing leaves at the base.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Cut just above a leaf node (the bump on the stem where a leaf attaches). This is where new growth will emerge. You can propagate the cuttings you take!

Dust the large leaves regularly with a soft, dry cloth to keep them photosynthesizing efficiently. Be gentle to avoid damaging the velvet.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellow Leaves

This is the most common issue. The cause depends on which leaves are yellowing.
Older, lower leaves yellowing naturally is normal as the plant sheds them. Several leaves yellowing at once usually means overwatering. Check the soil moisture immediately. Yellowing on new growth can indicate a nutrient deficiency or inconsistent watering.

Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges

This is almost always due to low humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant using the methods described earlier. It can also be caused by underwatering or, less commonly, a buildup of salts from tap water or fertilizer.

Pests to Watch For

Check the undersides of leaves regularly. Common pests include:
Spider Mites: Tiny specks and fine webbing. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Mealybugs: Look like small bits of white cotton. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Thrips: Leave silvery streaks on leaves. Isolate the plant and treat consistently with insecticidal soap.

Propagation: Sharing the Splendor

Propagating your philodendron splendid is rewarding. The easiest method is stem cuttings in water or moss.

Identify a healthy stem with at least one node and 2-3 leaves.
Using a clean tool, cut about half an inch below the node.
Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaf is not. Or, place it in a small pot of damp sphagnum moss.
Put it in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the water weekly if using that method. Keep the moss consistently damp.
Roots should appear in 2-6 weeks. Once they are a few inches long, pot the cutting in your chunky soil mix.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the philodendron splendid rare?

It used to be quite rare, but it has become more available in recent years from specialty nurseries and online plant shops. It’s still considered a prized plant for collectors.

Is philodendron splendid the same as philodendron verrucosum?

No, they are different plants. The splendid is a hybrid, often with verrucosum as one parent. The verrucosum typically has darker green leaves with more pronounced, lighter green veins and a shorter leaf shape.

How fast does a philodendron splendid grow?

With good light, warmth, and humidity, it is a moderately fast grower. You can expect several new leaves per growing season, each one potentially larger than the last.

Why are my new leaves smaller?

Smaller new leaves usually indicate insufficient light. Move your plant to a brighter location (with indirect light). It can also be a sign that the plant needs to be repotted or fertilized.

Is the philodendron splendid toxic?

Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.

Can I grow philodendron splendid outdoors?

Only if you live in a warm, humid climate (USDA zones 10-11). It must be in a shady, protected spot. For most people, it is strictly an indoor plant.

Final Thoughts on Care

Caring for a philodendron splendid is a commitment, but the reward is a truly spectacular living decoration. The key is understanding its tropical origins: provide bright filtered light, consistent (but not excessive) moisture, high humidity, and a chunky soil mix.

Pay attention to your plant’s signals. It will tell you what it needs. Crispy edges ask for more humidity. Yellow leaves warn of overwatering. Small leaves beg for more light. With a little observation and adjustment, you can enjoy this stunningly large and beautiful plant for many years to come. Its majestic leaves are worth the extra effort.