Philodendron Sharoniae

If you’re looking for a truly spectacular houseplant that stands out from the common Monstera or Pothos, let me introduce you to the philodendron sharoniae. This rare and stunning tropical is a must-have for serious collectors, offering dramatic foliage and a rewarding growing experience.

Its long, rippled leaves can grow several feet in length, creating a cascading effect that’s pure jungle vibes. While it can be tricky to find, caring for it is surprisingly straightforward once you know what it needs. This guide will give you all the practical tips to help your plant thrive.

Native to the rainforests of Ecuador, this philodendron is a hemi-epiphyte. That means it starts life on the forest floor and then climbs up trees, using its aerial roots to anchor itself and reach for the light. In your home, it will appreciate similar conditions: bright indirect light, consistent moisture, and something to climb.

The most striking feature is, of course, the foliage. The leaves are elongated and lance-shaped, with a distinctive wavy or rippled margin that gives them amazing texture. Mature leaves develop a beautiful semi-glossy finish and can show a reddish color on their undersides.

Why It’s Considered a Rare Plant

You won’t find this plant at your average garden center. Here’s why it remains a prized possession:

Limited Commercial Propagation: It grows relatively slow from cuttings compared to other philodendrons, so large-scale nurseries don’t produce it in mass quantities.
Specific Habitat: Being native to a specific region in Ecuador means it’s not as widespread in the wild as other species, influencing its availability.
High Collector Demand: Its unique appearance drives demand among houseplant enthusiasts, often making it a sell-out on specialty online shops.

Essential Care Requirements

Don’t let its rarity intimidate you. The care routine is similar to many other tropical aroids. Focus on these key elements, and your plant will reward you with vigorous growth.

Light: The Key to Big Leaves

This plant needs bright, indirect light to flourish. Think of the dappled sunlight under the rainforest canopy.

A spot near an east or west-facing window is ideal.
A few feet back from a south-facing window (with a sheer curtain) also works well.
Too little light leads to small leaves and leggy growth as the plant stretches.
Direct afternoon sun can scorch and fade the beautiful foliage, so avoid it.

Watering: Finding the Balance

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your plant. The goal is consistently moist but never soggy soil.

Check the top 2-3 inches of soil with your finger.
If it feels dry, it’s time to water thoroughly.
Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes, and always empty the saucer afterward.
Reduce watering frequency in the winter when growth slows down.

Soil and Potting Mix

A chunky, airy, and well-draining mix is non-negotiable. It prevents root rot by allowing oxygen to reach the roots.

You can make a perfect mix yourself with:

40% high-quality potting soil (aroid mix is best)
30% orchid bark for chunkiness and aeration
20% perlite or pumice for drainage
10% horticultural charcoal to keep the mix fresh

Ensure your pot has excellent drainage holes. Aroid-specific pots with side holes are a great choice.

Support and Training for Optimal Growth

Remember, this is a natural climber. Giving it a support structure mimics its native habitat and encourages larger, more mature leaves.

Moss Pole: The best option. The aerial roots can attach to it and absorb moisture and nutrients.
Coco Coir Pole or Wooden Plank: Also effective, especially if you keep the pole consistently damp.
How to Train: Gently tie the main stem to the pole using soft plant ties or twine. As it grows, continue to secure it every few inches.

Without support, the plant will trail. This can look lovely, but the leaves often remain smaller.

Propagation: How to Make More Plants

Propagating your philodendron sharoniae is a great way to share this rare plant with friends or expand your own collection. Stem cuttings in water or moss is the standard method.

Identify a healthy stem with at least 2-3 nodes (the little bumps where leaves and roots emerge).
Using a clean, sharp knife or shears, cut just below a node.
Place the cutting in a jar of water or into a container of damp sphagnum moss, ensuring at least one node is submerged or buried.
Put it in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the water weekly if using that method. For moss, keep it lightly moist.
Roots should appear in 2-6 weeks. Once they are a few inches long, pot the cutting in your aroid mix.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellowing Leaves

This is usually a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture and ensure the pot drains well. It could also indicate a need for fertilizer if it’s been a while.

Brown Leaf Tips or Edges

Often caused by low humidity. This plant prefers humidity above 60%. Increase it with a humidifier, a pebble tray, or by grouping plants together. Dry air from heaters or AC can also cause this.

Pests to Watch For

Like most houseplants, it can occasionally attract pests.

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Thrips: Cause silvery streaks on leaves. Isolate the plant and treat consistently with an appropriate insecticide.

Regularly inspecting your plant, especially under the leaves, is the best prevention.

Fertilizing for Lush Growth

During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your plant to support those large leaves.

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (like a 20-20-20) or one formulated for foliage plants.
Dilute it to half the recommended strength to avoid burning the roots.
Apply every 4-6 weeks while watering.
Stop fertilizing in fall and winter when the plant isn’t actively growing.

FAQ Section

How fast does the Philodendron Sharoniae grow?
Growth speed depends on conditions. With ideal light, humidity, and warmth, you can expect several new leaves per growing season. It’s not the fastest philodendron, but growth is steady.

Is Philodendron Sharoniae toxic to pets?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children.

What’s the difference between Philodendron Sharoniae and Philodendron Tortum?
They can look similar when young, but are very different. The Tortum has extremely narrow, almost skeletal leaves that are deeply divided. The Sharoniae has broad, elongated, wavy leaves that are not divided.

Where can I buy a Philodendron Sharoniae plant?
Your best bet is online through specialized rare plant retailers, Etsy shops, or plant auction groups on social media. Always check seller reviews and be prepared for it to be an investment.

Why are the new leaves on my plant smaller than the old ones?
This typically points to insufficient light. The plant might also need a nutrient boost from fertilizer, or its roots could be pot-bound. Assess light first, as it’s the most common cause.

Adding a philodendron sharoniae to your home is a commitment to nurturing a peice of living art. Its striking appearance and climbing habit make it a fantastic focal point. By providing the right light, a well-draining home, and a bit of humidity, you’ll be able to enjoy this rare and stunning tropical for many years to come. Remember, patience is key—watch it closely, adjust your care as needed, and it will thrive under your attention.