Philodendron Nangaritense

If you’re looking for a truly special houseplant that feels like a living piece of art, look no further. The philodendron nangaritense is a rare and stunning tropical that belongs on every collector’s wishlist. Its dramatic, elongated leaves have a unique texture that makes it stand out in any room. This guide will give you everything you need to know to succesfully care for this beautiful plant.

Finding one can be a challenge, but the effort is well worth it. We’ll cover where to look, how to make it thrive, and how to avoid common problems. Let’s get started with your new favorite plant.

This plant is native to the rainforests of Ecuador. It’s an epiphyte, meaning in nature it grows on other trees rather than in the soil. It climbs using its aerial roots, which seek out moisture and nutrients from the humid air and bark. Understanding this natural habitat is the key to keeping it happy in your home.

What Makes Its Leaves So Special?

The foliage is the main attraction. Each leaf is a narrow, elongated heart shape that can grow quite long as the plant matures. The surface has a distinctive bumpy, almost quilted texture called bullation. The color is a deep, velvety green with lighter veins running through it. New leaves often emerge with a reddish or bronze tint, adding to the visual intrest.

Is It a Fast Grower?

Growth speed depends on the conditions you provide. In ideal warmth and humidity with good light, it can be moderately fast during the spring and summer. However, it’s generally not considered a rapid grower like some other common philodendrons. Patience is a virtue with this one, but each new leaf is a cause for celebration.

Finding and Buying This Rare Plant

You won’t find this philodendron at your average garden center. Your best bets are specialized online rare plant shops, auctions, or plant swaps. Because of its rarity, prices can be high, especially for larger specimens. Always check the seller’s reviews and inspect photos closely for signs of pests or poor health before you buy.

Essential Care Requirements

Getting the basics right will ensure your plant not only survives but flourishes. It’s not a difficult plant if you mimic its tropical origins.

Light: Bright but Indirect is Best

Think of the dappled light under the jungle canopy. Your philodendron nangaritense needs bright, indirect light to grow well and maintain its stunning leaf color.

A spot near an east or north-facing window is often perfect.
A few feet back from a south or west window, shielded by a sheer curtain, also works.
Direct sun will scorch and yellow the beautiful leaves, so avoid placing it in a hot window.
If light is too low, growth will become very slow and leggy.

Watering: The Most Common Challenge

Overwatering is the fastest way to lose this plant. Its roots need oxygen and can’t sit in soggy soil.

Use your finger to check the top 2-3 inches of soil.
Water thoroughly only when that top layer feels dry.
Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes, then let all excess water drain away completely.
Empty the saucer or cache pot after 15 minutes so the roots aren’t sitting in water.
Watering frequency will drop significantly in the winter when growth slows.

Soil and Potting: Drainage is Everything

A chunky, airy potting mix is non-negotiable. You want something that holds some moisture but drains exceptionally well.

A good basic recipe: equal parts high-quality indoor potting mix, orchid bark, and perlite.
You can also add a handful of horticultural charcoal to help keep the mix fresh.
Always use a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent because they allow the soil to dry more evenly.
Repot every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot.

Humidity: The Higher, The Happier

As a tropical plant, it appreciates humidity levels above 60%. Average home humidity (around 30-50%) is often tolerated, but growth may be slower and leaf tips can brown.

Group plants together to create a humid microclimate.
Use a pebble tray filled with water placed under the pot.
The best solution is a small humidifier placed nearby, especially during dry winter months.
Misting provides only a very temporary boost and isn’t usually sufficent on its own.

Temperature and Feeding

Keep your plant in a warm spot, ideally between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from doors, windows, or air conditioning vents. Temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can cause damage.

Feed with a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the active growing season (spring and summer). Do not fertilize in the fall and winter when the plant is resting. Always water the soil first before applying fertilizer to prevent root burn.

Propagation: How to Make More Plants

Propagating is a great way to share this rare plant with friends or expand your own collection. The most reliable method is stem cuttings.

In spring or early summer, identify a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump where leaves and roots grow from).
Using clean, sharp scissors or pruners, cut just below a node.
You can root the cutting in water or directly in a moist sphagnum moss/perlite mix.
If using water, place the node in the water and change it weekly. Once roots are a few inches long, pot it up.
If using moss, keep it consistently moist (not soggy) and provide high humidity by covering with a plastic bag.
Place in warm, bright light and be patient—it can take several weeks for roots to develop.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellowing Leaves

This is most often a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot drains well. Older leaves yellowing and falling off occasionally is normal, but multiple yellow leaves means you need to adjust your watering habits.

Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges

Low humidity is the usual culprit. Try increasing the moisture in the air around your plant with a humidifier. It can also be caused by underwatering or a buildup of salts from fertilizer—try flushing the soil with plain water every few months.

Leggy Growth with Small Leaves

Your plant isn’t getting enough light. Move it gradually to a brighter location. The stems will stretch out reaching for a light source, resulting in a sparse appearance.

Pests to Watch For

Like many houseplants, it can attract common pests. Inspect the undersides of leaves regularly.

Spider Mites: Tiny specks and fine webbing. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Mealybugs: Look like small bits of white cotton. Remove with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Scale: Brown or tan bumps on stems and leaves. Scrape off gently and treat with horticultural oil.

Isolate any infested plant immediately to prevent the pests from spreading to your other plants.

Displaying Your Philodendron

This plant’s vining habit gives you options. You can let it trail gracefully from a shelf or hanging basket. For a more natural look, provide a moss pole or wooden plank for it to climb. As it climbs, the leaves often grow larger and more impressive. It makes a stunning focal point on a plant stand where its elegant form can be fully appreciated.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the Philodendron Nangaritense toxic?

Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.

How often should I water my Philodendron Nangaritense?

There’s no set schedule. Always check the soil moisture first. Watering might be once a week in summer and every two weeks or less in winter, depending on your home’s conditions.

Why are the new leaves on my plant smaller than the old ones?

This typically points to insufficient light or a lack of nutrients. Ensure it’s getting enough bright, indirect light and that you’re feeding it appropriately during the growing season.

Can I grow Philodendron Nangaritense in a terrarium?

It can do very well in a large, warm, and humid terrarium due to the constant high humidity. However, ensure there is still good air circulation to prevent fungal issues, and remember it will eventually outgrow a small enclosure.

What’s the difference between this and Philodendron Gloriosum?

While both have textured leaves, the Gloriosum has much broader, heart-shaped leaves that grow more horizontally. The Nangaritense has narrower, elongated leaves that are more pendulous or climbing. The leaf texture is also quite distinct upon close inspection.

Caring for a philodendron nangaritense is a rewarding experience for any plant enthusiast. Its unique beauty and relative ease of care, once you understand its needs, make it a truely special addition. By providing the right balance of light, water, and humidity, you’ll be able to enjoy this rare and stunning tropical for many years to come. Remember to check for those small signs from your plant—it will tell you what it needs.