Philodendron Lupinum

If you’re looking for a truly special houseplant, the philodendron lupinum is a rare and captivating tropical. Its stunning, textured leaves make it a standout in any collection, but it can be a bit tricky to find and care for. This guide will give you all the practical advice you need to succeed with this beautiful plant.

You’ll learn about its origins, how to create the perfect environment, and the simple steps to keep it thriving. Let’s get started.

This plant is a climbing aroid, native to the tropical rainforests of South America. It’s known for its remarkable foliage. The young leaves emerge a shiny, coppery-bronze color with a distinctive puckered texture. As they mature, they deepen to a rich, dark green while retaining that eye-catching surface.

Each leaf is heart-shaped (cordate) and can grow quite large with proper support. It’s a moderately fast grower when happy, and it will eagerly climb a moss pole or trellis. This growth habit makes it a fantastic choice for a vertical accent in your home.

Why Is Philodendron Lupinum So Rare?

You might wonder why this plant isn’t on every shelf. There are a few key reasons:

Limited Commercial Propagation: It is not yet mass-produced on the same scale as common houseplants. Supply is often lower than demand.
Specific Growth Requirements: It needs consistent warmth and humidity, which can make large-scale nursery production more challenging and costly.
High Demand from Collectors: Its unique appearance has made it a sought-after prize among plant enthusiasts, quickly snapping up available stock.

Finding Your Own Philodendron Lupinum

Patience is key. Check specialized online plant shops, Etsy sellers with excellent reviews, and local plant swap groups. Always inspect photos carefully and buy from reputable sources to ensure you get a healthy plant. Be prepared for a higher price point compared to common philodendrons.

Perfect Placement and Light Needs

Getting the light right is crucial. This plant thrives in bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight it would receive under the forest canopy.

Ideal Spot: Near an east or north-facing window is often perfect. A few feet back from a south or west window, filtered by a sheer curtain, also works well.
Signs of Too Much Light: Leaves may become pale, develop yellow or brown scorched patches, or curl.
Signs of Too Little Light: Growth will slow down dramatically, and the stems will become long and leggy as they stretch for light. The leaves may also stay smaller and lose some of their vibrant color.

What About Humidity?

As a tropical plant, it prefers humidity levels above 60%. Average home humidity (around 30-50%) is often to low, especially in winter. Here are some easy ways to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier placed near the plant. This is the most effective method.
Group it with other plants to create a microclimate.
Place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot sits above the water, not in it).

Watering and Soil: The Foundation of Health

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your plant. The goal is to provide moisture while ensuring the roots can breathe.

The Best Soil Mix

A well-draining, airy potting mix is non-negotiable. You can make your own blend:

Start with a base of high-quality potting soil.
Add equal parts orchid bark and perlite for aeration.
Mix in a handful of horticultural charcoal to keep the mix fresh.
A small amount of worm castings adds gentle nutrients.

Your Watering Routine

Forget a strict schedule. Instead, check the soil. Insert your finger about 2 inches into the pot. If the soil feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, and always empty the saucer afterward. In winter, you will water much less frequently.

Feeding and Support for Growth

During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your plant monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. You can skip feeding in fall and winter when growth naturally slows. Always water the soil before applying fertilizer to prevent root burn.

Since this is a climber, providing a support structure is essential for it to look its best. A moss pole or coco coir pole is ideal. The aerial roots will attach to the moist pole, mimicking its natural habit and encouraging larger leaf growth. Gently tie the stems to the pole with soft plant ties as it grows.

Common Problems and Simple Solutions

Even with great care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellowing Leaves

This is often a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot drains well. Sometimes, older leaves yellow and drop naturally as the plant grows, which is no cause for alarm.

Brown Leaf Edges or Tips

Low humidity is the usual culprit here. Dry air causes the leaf margins to crisp up. Increasing the humidity around your plant will prevent new leaves from developing this issue.

Pests to Watch For

Like many houseplants, it can occasionally attract pests. Keep an eye out for:

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses. Remove with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Thrips: Can cause silvery streaks on leaves. Isolate the plant and treat consistently with an appropriate insecticide.

Early detection is key, so inspect your plant weekly when you water it.

Propagation: How to Make More Plants

The best way to propagate your philodendron lupinum is through stem cuttings. It’s a rewarding process. Here’s how to do it step-by-step:

Choose a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump where leaves and roots grow from) and 1-2 leaves.
Using clean, sharp scissors or pruners, cut just below a node.
You can root the cutting in water or moist sphagnum moss. Place it so the node is submerged or buried.
Put it in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the water weekly if using that method. For moss, keep it consistently moist but not soggy.
In a few weeks, you should see roots developing. Once they are an inch or two long, you can pot the cutting into a small container with your regular soil mix.

Repotting Your Plant

You’ll only need to repot every 1-2 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter. Spring or early summer is the best time to repot, as the plant is entering its peak growth phase and can recover quickly.

Be gentle with the roots during the process. After repotting, water thoroughly and return the plant to its usual spot. It may look a little droopy for a few days as it adjusts, which is normal.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the philodendron lupinum considered toxic?

Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Always keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.

How fast does a lupinum philodendron grow?

With ideal conditions—good light, warmth, and humidity—it can be a moderately fast grower, especially during the spring and summer. You might see a new leaf every few weeks.

Can I grow Philodendron lupinum in a terrarium?

While it loves humidity, its ultimate size and climbing nature make it unsuitable for most closed terrariums. It can work in a very large, open terrarium or paludarium with ample space to climb.

Why are the new leaves on my plant smaller than older ones?

This is usually a sign that the plant needs more light or better nutrients. Ensure it’s getting enough bright indirect light and that you’re feeding it appropriately during the growing season. A lack of a support structure can also sometimes limit leaf size.

Caring for a philodendron lupinum is a rewarding experience for any plant lover. By providing the right balance of light, water, and humidity, you’ll be able to enjoy its rare and captivating tropical beauty for years to come. Remember to check the soil before watering, provide a moss pole for support, and keep an eye out for pests. With these simple steps, your plant will thrive.