Philodendron Lickety Split

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a statement without demanding constant attention, you’ve found it. The Philodendron Lickety Split is a fast-growing and uniquely shaped variety that has become a favorite for good reason.

Its dramatic, deeply lobed leaves bring a tropical, almost architectural feel to any room. This plant is surprisingly adaptable, thriving in the typical conditions of a home. It’s the perfect choice for both new plant owners and seasoned collectors who want reliable growth and striking visuals.

This particular philodendron is a cultivated variety, prized for its distinctive foliage. Unlike the solid heart-shaped leaves of many common philodendrons, the ‘Lickety Split’ features leaves that are deeply cut, or split, along the veins. This gives each leaf a fascinating, multi-fingered appearance that adds texture and depth.

The growth habit is another standout feature. It’s a climber by nature, sending out aerial roots that seek support. Given a moss pole or trellis, it will grow tall and majestic. Without support, it will adopt a more trailing or bushy habit, making it versatile for shelves or hanging baskets.

What Makes It So Unique?

The name really says it all. The “split” refers to the leaf shape, and “lickety” hints at its speed. Here’s what sets it apart:

Leaf Morphology: Each glossy, green leaf develops deep, irregular splits as it matures. No two leaves are exactly alike, creating a dynamic look.
Growth Rate: With proper care, it puts out new leaves frequently during the growing season. You can almost watch it get bigger.
Adaptability: It tolerates a range of light conditions and forgives the occasional missed watering, making it far less fussy than its exotic appearance suggests.

Ideal Light Conditions for Optimal Growth

Light is the most important factor in keeping your Philodendron Lickety Split both happy and fast-growing. It’s all about finding that sweet spot.

Best: Bright, indirect light is perfect. Think near an east-facing window, or a few feet back from a south or west-facing window where the sun’s rays never directly touch the leaves. This light intensity encourages those large, well-split leaves and steady growth.

Acceptable: It can manage in medium light levels, such as in the interior of a bright room. Growth will be slower, and the leaves may be slightly smaller with less pronounced splits, but the plant will still survive.

Avoid: Direct, harsh afternoon sun can scorch the leaves, causing brown, crispy patches. Conversely, deep shade will lead to very slow growth, leggy stems (as it stretches for light), and poor leaf development.

Signs Your Plant Needs More Light

Stems becoming long and sparse with large gaps between leaves.
New leaves are significantly smaller than older ones.
The leaf stems (petioles) become unusually long and weak.
Overall growth seems to have stalled completely.

Watering Your Philodendron Correctly

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your plant. The goal is to mimic the natural cycle of a tropical rainforest: a good drink followed by a period where the roots can access oxygen.

The golden rule is to water deeply, then allow the top portion of the soil to dry out before watering again. Here’s a simple method:

Check the Soil: Stick your finger about 2 inches into the potting mix. If it feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water.
Water Thoroughly: Take the plant to the sink and water slowly until you see water flowing freely from the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball is moistened.
Let it Drain: Never let the plant sit in a saucer of water. Empty the cachepot or saucer after 15-20 minutes to prevent root rot.

Frequency will change with the seasons. You might water once a week in the warm, bright summer months, and only every 2-3 weeks in the darker winter. Always let the soil’s dryness, not the calendar, be your guide.

The Right Soil and Potting Mix

Your Philodendron Lickety Split needs a soil that retains some moisture but drains exceptionally well. A heavy, dense soil will stay wet too long and suffocate the roots.

A good, simple potting mix recipe is:

2 parts high-quality all-purpose potting soil
1 part perlite or pumice
1 part orchid bark or coconut coir

This combination provides structure, aeration, and slight moisture retention. When it comes to pots, always choose one with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent because they are porous and help wick away excess moisture from the soil.

Fertilizing for Fast Growth

To support its rapid growth, your philodendron will appreciate regular feeding during its active period. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (with equal NPK numbers like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) is ideal.

Season: Fertilize from early spring through early fall.
Frequency: Apply a diluted, half-strength fertilizer every 4-6 weeks.
Method: Water with the fertilizer solution on a day you would normally water, ensuring the soil is already slightly moist to avoid root burn.

Stop fertilizing in the late fall and winter when growth naturally slows. The plant cannot use the nutrients, and they can build up and harm the roots.

Humidity and Temperature Preferences

As a tropical plant, it enjoys higher humidity but is quite adaptable to average home humidity (around 40-50%). If your air is very dry, you might notice slow-growing leaf tips or edges turning slightly brown.

Easy ways to increase humidity:

Group it with other plants.
Place it on a pebble tray filled with water (keep the pot above the water line).
Use a room humidifier nearby.

Misting provides only a very temporary boost and is not generally recommended as it can promote fungal issues if leaves stay wet. For temperature, aim for a comfortable room range between 65°F and 80°F. Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.

Pruning and Training Your Plant

Pruning helps maintain a full, attractive shape and controls size. You can prune any time of year, but spring is best for encouraging new growth.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
Cut just above a leaf node (the small bump on the stem where a leaf attaches).
You can remove any yellowing or damaged leaves at their base.
Don’t be afraid to trim long vines back to encourage bushier growth from the base.

To showcase its climbing nature, provide a moss pole or trellis. As the plant grows, gently attach the stems to the support using soft plant ties or clips. The aerial roots will eventually cling to the moss, and the plant will produce larger, more mature leaves.

How and When to Repot

You’ll know it’s time to repot when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, or when the plant dries out very quickly after watering. Spring or early summer is the ideal time.

Choose a new pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one.
Gently remove the plant and loosen the root ball slightly.
Place fresh potting mix in the bottom of the new pot.
Set the plant in and fill around the sides with more mix, firming gently.
Water thoroughly to help settle the soil.

The plant may take a week or two to adjust after repotting. It’s normal for it to look a little droopy during this time—just keep it in stable light and avoid fertilizing for at least a month.

Common Pests and Problems

This philodendron is relatively pest-resistant, but it can occasionally attract common houseplant insects.

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses in leaf joints. Dab with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Fungus Gnats: Small black flies that indicate overly moist soil. Let the soil dry more between waterings and use yellow sticky traps.

Troubleshooting Leaf Issues

Yellow Leaves: Often a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture routine.
Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges: Usually caused by low humidity, underwatering, or fertilizer burn.
Drooping Leaves: Can mean either too much or too little water. Check the soil to diagnose.
Small Leaves, No Splits: Typically due to insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter location.

Propagating Your Philodendron Lickety Split

Sharing this plant is easy through stem cuttings. It’s a rewarding way to create new plants for yourself or friends.

In spring or summer, identify a healthy stem with at least 2-3 leaves and a visible node.
Using clean shears, cut about a half-inch below a node.
You can root the cutting in water or directly in moist potting mix.
- Water: Place the cutting in a glass of water, ensuring the node is submerged. Change the water weekly. Roots should appear in 2-4 weeks. Plant in soil once roots are a few inches long.
- Soil: Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional) and plant it in a small pot with moist potting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy) and provide high humidity by covering the pot with a plastic bag.
Once you see new growth, you’ll know the cutting has established roots.

FAQ Section

Is the Philodendron Lickety Split the same as a Philodendron Hope Selloum?
They are often confused! The ‘Hope Selloum’ (now reclassified as Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum) is a much larger, non-climbing plant with similarly split leaves. The Lickety Split is a true vining/climbing Philodendron and stays more manageable indoors.

How fast does the Lickety Split philodendron actually grow?
In ideal conditions, you can expect several new leaves per month during the spring and summer. Its growth rate is notably quicker than many other popular philodendrons.

Is the Philodendron Lickety Split pet friendly?
No. Like most philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans. It can cause oral irritation and digestive upset. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children.

Why are the new leaves on my plant not split?
This is completely normal. Juvenile leaves often emerge heart-shaped without splits. As the leaf matures and the plant receives adequate light, subsequent leaves will develop the characteristic deep lobes. Patience is key.

Can I grow Philodendron Lickety Split outdoors?
Yes, but only in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 where temperatures stay above freezing. It must be in a shaded or dappled light location, as direct outdoor sun is too intense. In other zones, it can enjoy a summer vacation in a shady patio spot but must be brought indoors well before the first frost.

How do I make my plant more bushy instead of leggy?
Regular pruning is the answer. Pinching or cutting back the growing tips encourages the plant to branch out from lower nodes. Also, ensure it’s getting enough light to prevent excessive stretching in the first place.

Caring for a Philodendron Lickety Split is a straightforward and gratifying experience. By providing the right balance of light, water, and support, you’ll be rewarded with a vigorous, architectural plant that brings a piece of the tropics into your home. Its resilience and striking apperance make it a standout choice for any plant lover’s collection.