Philodendron Imperial Red

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a bold statement with minimal fuss, the philodendron imperial red is a perfect choice. This stunning plant is celebrated for its deep red foliage that seems to glow from within, adding a rich splash of color to any room.

It’s a member of the popular Philodendron genus, known for being tough and adaptable. The ‘Imperial Red’ is a self-heading type, meaning it grows in a neat, upright rosette rather than as a vine. This makes it an excellent, space-efficient option for tabletops or floor displays.

Its leaves emerge a bright, coppery red and gradually deepen to a dark, luxurious burgundy-green as they mature. The contrast between new and old growth creates a beautiful, living tapestry. Caring for it is straightforward, even if you’re new to the plant parenting world.

This plant is a hybrid, selectively bred for its compact form and incredible color. It’s a tropical evergreen that thrives indoors, purifying the air while it grows. The leaves are broad, glossy, and often have a slightly wavy edge, which catches the light beautifully.

It’s a relatively fast grower during the warm months, pushing out new leaves regularly. A mature plant can reach about 3 feet in height and width, forming a dense, attractive clump. It’s truly a low-maintenance superstar that rewards you with constant visual interest.

Ideal Light Conditions

Getting the light right is key to maintaining that famous red color. Too little light, and the leaves will fade to a dull green. To much direct sun, however, can scorch the leaves.

Best Spot: Bright, indirect light is ideal. A spot near an east or north-facing window is perfect.
Good Option: A few feet back from a south or west-facing window, filtered by a sheer curtain.
Signs of Trouble: Pale, green leaves mean it needs more light. Brown, crispy patches mean it’s getting too much direct sun.

Watering Your Plant Correctly

Overwatering is the most common mistake with philodendrons. They like their soil to partially dry out between drinks.

Check the Soil: Before watering, stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Water Thoroughly: Water slowly and evenly until you see it start to drain from the bottom of the pot.
Let it Drain: Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water.
Adjust for Season: Water more frequently in spring and summer, and reduce watering in fall and winter when growth slows.

Soil and Potting Needs

A well-draining, airy potting mix is essential to prevent root rot. A standard houseplant mix is a good start, but you can improve it.

Use a high-quality, peat-based potting mix.
Amend it with perlite or orchid bark to increase drainage and aeration.
Choose a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are great because they allow the soil to dry more evenly.
Repot every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot.

Temperature and Humidity Preferences

As a tropical plant, it enjoys warmth and appreciates some humidity. But it’s quite adaptable to typical home conditions.

Keep it in temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid drafts, air conditioning vents, and sudden temperature drops below 55°F (13°C). Average household humidity is usually fine, but if your air is very dry, consider these tips:

Group plants together to create a humid microclimate.
Place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
Use a room humidifier nearby, especially in winter.

Feeding for Vibrant Growth

Fertilizing supports healthy growth and intense leaf color. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer works well.

Feed once a month during the active growing season (spring and summer).
Dilute the fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the bottle.
Do not fertilize in the fall and winter, as the plant is resting.
Always water the soil lightly before applying fertilizer to avoid burning the roots.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is mostly for aesthetics and to remove any unhappy leaves. You rarely need to prune for size because of its compact habit.

Simply use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut off any yellowing or damaged leaves at the base of the stem. You can also remove older, outer leaves if you want to encourage a tighter shape. Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks keeps them dust-free and shiny, allowing them to breathe and absorb light efficiently.

Common Pests and Problems

This plant is generally pest-resistant, but it can occasionally attract common houseplant bugs. Keep an eye out for:

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Treat by rinsing the plant in the shower or using insecticidal soap.
Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses in leaf joints. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Yellow Leaves: Often a sign of overwatering. Check your watering routine and soil moisture.
Brown Leaf Edges: Usually caused by low humidity, underwatering, or a buildup of salts from fertilizer. Flush the soil occasionally with plain water.

Propagation Guide

You can create new plants from your Philodendron Imperial Red through division. This is best done when you are repotting.

Gently remove the plant from its pot and shake off excess soil.
Look for natural divisions in the root ball—separate clumps of stems with there own roots.
Carefully tease or cut the roots apart to separate the clumps.
Pot each new division into its own container with fresh potting mix.
Water lightly and provide bright, indirect light as they establish.

Styling and Placement Ideas

Its dramatic color makes it a fantastic focal point. Use it to add a warm, rich accent to a room with neutral tones. It looks fantastic on a plant stand in a living room corner, or as a centerpiece on a dining table. Pair it with plants that have silver, white, or light green foliage for a stunning contrast. Because it’s non-vining, it’s also a great choice for offices or bedrooms where floor space is limited.

FAQ

Is the Philodendron Imperial Red toxic to pets?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. It’s best to keep it out of reach of curious pets.

Why are the new leaves on my Imperial Red not red?
Insufficient light is the most likely cause. Try moving it to a brighter spot with indirect light to encourage the vibrant red coloration in new growth.

How often should I repot my Imperial Red philodendron?
Every 1-2 years in spring. If you see roots growing out of the drainage holes or the soil dries out extremely quickly, it’s likely time for a larger pot.

Can I put my philodendron outside in summer?
You can, but be careful. Place it in a fully shaded spot, as direct outdoor sun will burn the leaves. Always acclimate it gradually and bring it back inside before nighttime temperatures drop below 60°F.

What’s the difference between Imperial Red and Imperial Green?
They are very similar in shape and care, but the ‘Imperial Green’ has, as the name suggests, deep green foliage instead of the red and burgundy tones.

With its stunning looks and easy-going nature, the Philodendron Imperial Red is a plant that will thrive with basic care. By providing the right light, careful watering, and occasional feeding, you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular display of deep red foliage for years to come. It’s a truely rewarding plant for any indoor gardener.