If you’re looking for a houseplant that truly makes a statement, the philodendron hastatum – silver sword houseplant is a perfect choice. With its stunning, metallic-silver leaves that seem to glow from within, this plant is a favorite among collectors and beginners alike.
Its unique foliage brings a touch of modern elegance to any room. While it looks exotic, its care is straightforward once you understand its basic needs. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your Silver Sword thriving.
Philodendron Hastatum – Silver Sword Houseplant
This plant, often simply called the Silver Sword Philodendron, is a climbing aroid native to the rainforests of Brazil. In its natural habitat, it uses its aerial roots to climb up trees towards the canopy, seeking bright, filtered light.
The most striking feature is, of course, its leaves. Juvenile leaves start heart-shaped and a more muted green. As the plant matures and begins to climb, the leaves transform into long, arrowhead-shaped blades with a breathtaking silvery-metallic sheen. The color is not a trick of the light; it’s the natural pigment of the leaf.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Getting the environment right is the key to a healthy plant. Think about the dappled sunlight of a rainforest floor. Your goal is to recreate that at home.
Light Requirements
Bright, indirect light is non-negotiable for maintaining that iconic silver glow. A spot near an east or north-facing window is ideal. A south or west window can work if the plant is placed a few feet back or filtered by a sheer curtain.
- Too little light: The plant will become leggy, with longer stems between leaves, and the silver coloration will fade to a dull green.
- Too much direct sun: The delicate leaves will scorch, leaving crispy brown patches. This damage is permanent.
Temperature & Humidity
As a tropical plant, it prefers warmth and moisture in the air. Average household temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C) are perfect. Avoid placing it near drafty windows, air conditioning vents, or heating sources, as sudden temperature drops can cause stress.
Humidity above 50% is best. If your home is dry, especially in winter, try these methods:
- Use a humidifier (most effective).
- Place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water.
- Group it with other humidity-loving plants.
- Check the soil weekly by sticking your finger about 2 inches into the pot.
- If the top 2 inches feel dry, it’s time to water.
- Water thoroughly until you see it drain freely from the bottom of the pot.
- Always empty the cache pot or saucer after 15 minutes to prevent root rot.
- 2 parts regular potting mix
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- 1 part orchid bark or coco coir
- Identify a healthy stem with at least one node (aerial roots are a bonus).
- Using clean shears, cut about 1/4 inch below the node.
- Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaf stays dry.
- Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water once a week.
- In 2-6 weeks, you should see roots developing. Wait until they are a few inches long before potting in soil.
- Yellow Leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture and adjust your schedule. The oldest leaves may also yellow naturally as they age.
- Brown Leaf Tips/Edges: Often caused by low humidity or a buildup of salts and minerals from tap water. Try using distilled, rainwater, or filtered water, and increase humidity.
- Leggy Growth with Small Leaves: The plant is not getting enough light. Move it to a brighter location (with indirect light).
- Pests: Watch for common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth and inspect them. Treat infestations early with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
While it can adapt to lower humidity, you might see slower growth or the occasional brown leaf tip.
Plant Care and Maintenance
Consistent care will keep your Silver Sword looking its best. The routine is simple once you get into the habit.
Watering Your Silver Sword
This is where most people run into trouble. The Silver Sword likes its soil to partially dry out between waterings. Think “moist, not soggy.”
In winter, reduce watering frequency as the plant’s growth slows and soil takes longer to dry. Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering, while drooping leaves usually indicate thirst.
Soil and Fertilizer
A well-draining, airy potting mix is crucial. A standard houseplant soil can be too dense on its own. You can make a perfect mix by combining:
This blend allows water to flow through while retaining some moisture and letting roots breathe. Feed your plant during the active growing season (spring and summer). Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength every 4-6 weeks. There’s no need to fertilize in the fall and winter.
Pruning and Support
This is a natural climber. As it grows, it will appreciate a support to attach to, like a moss pole, coco coir pole, or even a plank of wood. Attaching the stems to a support encourages larger, more mature leaves to develop.
Pruning is simple. You can trim any yellowing or damaged leaves at the stem base with clean scissors. To control size or encourage bushier growth, you can cut just above a leaf node (the bump on the stem where a leaf attaches). This may prompt new growth from that node.
Propagation and Repotting
Sharing or expanding your collection is easy with the Silver Sword. Propagation is best done in spring or early summer.
How to Propagate in Water
When and How to Repot
Repot every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter. A pot that’s too big holds excess moisture, which can lead to root problems.
Gently loosen the root ball and place it in the new pot with fresh potting mix. Water it well to help it settle. The plant might look a little sad for a week or two as it adjusts to its new home, but it will recover.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with great care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to identify and fix them.
Remember, it’s normal for a plant to lose an old leaf occassionally as it puts energy into new growth. Don’t panic at the first sign of a problem.
FAQ About the Silver Sword Philodendron
Is the philodendron hastatum toxic?
Yes, like all philodendrons, the Silver Sword contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. It can cause irritation of the mouth, tongue, and throat. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.
How fast does the Silver Sword philodendron grow?
With good light, warmth, and proper care, it is a moderately fast grower during the spring and summer months. You can expect several new leaves per season, especially if it has a support to climb.
Why are the leaves on my silver sword plant not silver?
The most common cause is insufficient light. In low light, the plant reverts to producing more green chlorophyll to survive, overpowering the silvery pigment. Move it to a brighter spot. Also, remember that very young leaves often start greener and develop their silver sheen as they harden off.
Should I mist my philodendron hastatum?
Misting provides only a very temporary boost in humidity and can sometimes promote fungal leaf spots if water sits on the leaves too long. Using a humidifier or a pebble tray is a more effective and safer method for increasing humidity around your plant.
What’s the difference between Philodendron Hastatum and ‘Silver Sword’?
They are the same plant. ‘Silver Sword’ is the common name for Philodendron hastatum. You might also see it labeled as Philodendron domesticum in some nurseries, though this is a less accurate name.
The philodendron hastatum – silver sword houseplant is a rewarding and beautiful addition to any indoor plant collection. By providing it with the right balance of light, water, and humidity, you’ll be able to enjoy its spectacular metallic foliage for years to come. Its elegant appearance and relatively easy-going nature make it a standout choice for both new and experienced plant enthusiasts.