If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a bold statement, look no further. The philodendron erubescens – stunning red-leafed houseplant is a true showstopper that combines dramatic beauty with easy-going care.
This tropical vine, often called the Blushing Philodendron, is famous for its heart-shaped leaves. New growth emerges in shades of coppery red or pink, creating a gorgeous contrast against the darker, mature foliage. It’s a favorite for its ability to adapt and thrive indoors, purifying the air while adding a vibrant touch of color to your space.
Philodendron Erubescens – Stunning Red-Leafed Houseplant
This heading says it all. The ‘erubescens’ in its name actually means ‘to blush’ or ‘flushed red,’ which perfectly describes its appearance. While several cultivars exist, they all share this captivating trait of red-hued stems and new leaves.
Popular Varieties to Know
Not all Philodendron erubescens look exactly the same. Breeders have developed several stunning cultivars, each with its own unique twist on the classic red-leafed theme.
- Philodendron erubescens ‘Pink Princess’: The most sought-after variety, featuring deep green leaves dramatically splashed with bright pink variegation. The stems and leaf sheaths are a rich red.
- Philodendron erubescens ‘Red Emerald’: Boasts solid, deep green leaves with a glossy finish. Its standout features are the vibrant red stems and the long, red cataphylls that sheath new growth.
- Philodendron erubescens ‘White Knight’: Similar to the Pink Princess but with white or cream variegation instead of pink. It also has striking reddish stems.
- Philodendron erubescens ‘Black Cardinal’: This one is a self-heading (non-climbing) type. Its new leaves start a burgundy-red and mature to a very dark, almost blackish-green.
Ideal Light Conditions for Vibrant Color
Light is the most important factor for maintaining those stunning red and pink tones. Too little light, and the plant will revert to mostly green growth to maximize photosynthesis.
For the best color development, provide bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is perfect. A spot a few feet back from a south or west window, filtered by a sheer curtain, also works well.
Avoid direct, harsh afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves. If you only have lower light, the plant will survive, but its growth will be slower and the red pigments will be less pronounced. A good tip is if the plant is producing leaves that are smaller and farther apart on the vine, it likely needs more light.
Watering Your Philodendron Correctly
Overwatering is the quickest way to harm your plant. Philodendron erubescens likes its soil to partially dry out between waterings.
- Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about an inch into the pot.
- If the top inch feels dry, it’s time to water.
- Water thoroughly until you see it drain freely from the bottom of the pot.
- Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15 minutes so the roots aren’t sitting in water.
In winter, reduce watering frequency as growth slows and soil takes longer to dry. Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of to much water, while brown, crispy leaf edges might indicate underwatering or very low humidity.
Soil and Potting Needs
A well-draining, airy potting mix is essential. These plants are epiphytic in nature, meaning they naturally grow on trees and need oxygen around their roots.
A good basic mix is a standard houseplant potting soil amended with perlite and orchid bark. A ratio of 2 parts potting mix to 1 part perlite and 1 part orchid bark creates a perfect environment. Repot your plant every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot. Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter to prevent excess wet soil.
Choosing the Right Container
Always use a pot with drainage holes. Decorative cache pots are fine, but avoid planting directly into a pot without a hole. Terracotta pots are excellent because they allow the soil to dry more evenly through their porous walls.
Humidity and Temperature Preferences
As a tropical plant, it appreciates higher humidity but is surprisingly adaptable to average home conditions. Aim for 40-60% humidity if possible.
- Group plants together to create a humid microclimate.
- Use a pebble tray filled with water placed under the pot.
- Consider a room humidifier, especially during dry winter months.
Misting is not very effective for raising long-term humidity and can promote fungal issues if leaves stay wet to long. Keep your plant in temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C), and protect it from cold drafts and sudden temperature drops.
Fertilizing for Healthy Growth
Feed your philodendron during its active growing season (spring and summer). A balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength works perfectly.
Apply it once a month. You can also use a slow-release granular fertilizer at the beginning of the season. Stop fertilizing in fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows. Over-fertilizing can damage the roots and cause leaf burn, so less is more.
Pruning and Training
Philodendron erubescens is a climbing vine. In its natural habitat, it uses aerial roots to attach to tree trunks. You can train it to climb a moss pole, which it will happily cling to. This encourages larger leaf growth.
Pruning is simple and helps maintain a bushy, full appearance.
- Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
- Cut just above a leaf node (the bump on the stem where a leaf attaches).
- New growth will emerge from this node.
- You can propagate the cuttings you remove to make new plants!
How to Propagate New Plants
Propagating this philodendron is rewarding and straightforward. The easiest method is stem cuttings in water or moss.
- Take a cutting with at least one node and 2-3 leaves.
- Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaves are not.
- Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water weekly.
- In a few weeks, you should see roots developing. Once they are an inch or two long, pot the cutting in soil.
You can also root cuttings directly in a moist mix of perlite and peat, or sphagnum moss. This method sometimes produces stronger roots adapted to soil from the start.
Common Pests and Problems
This plant is generally resilient, but keep an eye out for a few common issues.
- Spider Mites: Tiny pests that cause stippling on leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil if they appear.
- Mealybugs: Look like small, white cottony masses in leaf axils. Remove with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Yellow Leaves: Often a sign of overwatering. Check your watering schedule and soil drainage.
- Brown Leaf Tips: Usually caused by low humidity or underwatering.
- Leggy Growth with Small Leaves: The plant is not getting enough light. Move it to a brighter location.
Regularly wiping the leaves with a damp cloth not only keeps them dust-free and shiny but also helps you spot pests early.
Is the Philodendron Erubescens Pet Safe?
No. Like many plants in the Araceae family, Philodendron erubescens contains calcium oxalate crystals. These are toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested.
Ingestion can cause oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. It’s crucial to keep this beautiful plant out of reach of curious pets and children. Consider placing it on a high shelf or in a room they cannot access.
Styling Your Home with This Red-Leafed Beauty
Its vibrant foliage makes it a fantastic focal point. Train it up a moss pole in a decorative pot for a vertical accent. Let it trail from a high shelf or bookcase for a cascading effect. Its rich colors pair beautifully with neutral walls, terracotta pots, and natural wood tones. It also complements other green plants, making the red hues pop even more.
FAQ
Why are the new leaves on my Philodendron erubescens not red?
Insufficient light is the most common reason. Move it to a brighter spot with indirect light to encourage the red pigmentation.
How fast does the Blushing Philodendron grow?
With good light, warmth, and proper care, it’s a moderately fast grower during spring and summer. You can expect several inches of new growth each month in ideal conditions.
Can I grow Philodendron erubescens in water forever?
While cuttings root well in water, long-term growth in water alone is not ideal. It can survive, but it will likely become deficient in nutrients and be weaker than a soil-grown plant. It’s best to transfer water-rooted cuttings to soil.
What’s the difference between Philodendron erubescens and a Philodendron Pink Princess?
The Pink Princess is a specific, variegated cultivar of Philodendron erubescens. So all Pink Princess plants are Philodendron erubescens, but not all Philodendron erubescens are the pink variegated Pink Princess.
Should I wipe the leaves of my red-leaf philodendron?
Yes, gently wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth every few weeks removes dust. This allows the plant to breathe and absorb more light, keeping those colors vibrant.
With its stunning looks and forgiving nature, the Philodendron erubescens is a rewarding plant for both beginners and experienced collectors. By providing the right balance of light, water, and warmth, you’ll be able to enjoy its spectacular red and pink foliage for many years to come. It’s a classic houseplant that truly earns its place in any indoor jungle.