If you’re looking for a houseplant that stops people in their tracks, look no further. The philodendron el choco red is famous for its stunning red-veined foliage, a true masterpiece of nature that makes it a top wishlist plant for collectors. Its large, heart-shaped leaves emerge with a mesmerizing reddish-copper hue, with veins that can range from bright pink to deep blood-red, creating a dramatic contrast against the darker green leaf surface.
This rare tropical beauty from the rainforests of Colombia is surprisingly adaptable to indoor life. While it has a reputation for being a bit fussy, with the right knowledge, you can successfully grow and enjoy this spectacular plant in your own home.
Philodendron El Choco Red
This plant is a terrestrial or hemiepiphytic aroid, meaning in nature it can start life on the forest floor or climb up trees. Its main attraction is, without question, its foliage. New leaves unfurl from a bright red cataphyll, often with a glossy, almost metallic sheen. The intensity of the red veining can vary based on light, maturity, and the plant’s overall health, with brighter light usually encouraging more vibrant coloration.
What Makes Its Leaves So Red?
The stunning color is due to pigments called anthocyanins. These are the same pigments that give red grapes and blueberries their color. In the El Choco Red, these pigments are concentrated in the veins and sometimes the new leaf surface, acting as a sort of natural sunscreen and antioxidant for the plant in its native dappled light habitat.
El Choco Red vs. Philodendron Pastazanum
New plant enthusiasts often confuse these two. While both have heart-shaped leaves and reddish stems, the Pastazanum typically has more silvery, lighter green leaves with less prominent red veining. The veins on a Pastazanum are usually a paler green, not the vivid red or pink seen on a true El Choco Red. The leaf texture can also be different, with the El Choco Red often having a more velvety feel when young.
Caring for Your Philodendron El Choco Red
Getting the basics right is key to keeping your plant healthy and colorful. It’s not the most difficult philodendron, but it does appreciate consistency.
Light Requirements
This plant thrives in bright, indirect light. Think of the light under the canopy of a tall tree in the jungle.
* An east-facing window is often ideal, providing gentle morning sun.
* A south or west-facing window is good too, but you must diffuse the strong afternoon sun with a sheer curtain. Direct sun will scorch the beautiful leaves.
* Not enough light will cause the plant to become leggy, and the famous red veining will become less pronounced and may fade.
Watering Practices
Overwatering is the fastest way to lose this plant. Its roots need oxygen and can rot in soggy soil.
* Method: Water thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes. Then, let the top 2-3 inches of soil dry out completely before watering again.
* Check the soil: Your finger is the best tool. Stick it into the soil up to your second knuckle; if it feels dry, it’s time to water.
* Seasonal changes: Water less frequently in the winter when the plant’s growth slows down. Always adjust based on your home’s temperature and humidity.
Soil and Potting Mix
A well-aerated, chunky, and fast-draining mix is non-negotiable. It mimics the loose, airy litter of the forest floor.
A simple recipe you can mix at home includes:
* 1 part high-quality indoor potting soil
* 1 part orchid bark (for chunkiness and aeration)
* 1 part perlite or pumice (for drainage)
* A handful of horticultural charcoal (to keep the mix fresh and deter rot)
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, it prefers warmth and moisture in the air.
* Temperature: Keep it in a range of 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.
* Humidity: Aim for 60% humidity or higher. Low humidity can cause crispy leaf edges. You can increase humidity by:
* Using a humidifier (most effective method).
* Placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
* Grouping it with other plants to create a microclimate.
Propagation Guide
The best way to propagate your Philodendron El Choco Red is through stem cuttings. This is best done in the spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing.
1. Identify and Cut: Find a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump where leaves and roots emerge) and 1-2 leaves. Using a clean, sharp knife or scissors, cut just below a node.
2. Prepare the Cutting: You can dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder to encourage faster root development, though this is optional.
3. Rooting Medium: Place the cutting in your choice of medium. Sphagnum moss kept consistently moist (not wet) is very popular. You can also use water or a mix of perlite and moss.
4. Create Humidity: Cover the cutting and its pot with a clear plastic bag or place it in a propagation box to maintain high humidity.
5. Wait and Watch: Place it in warm, bright, indirect light. Check for root growth every few weeks. Once roots are at least an inch or two long, you can pot it up into the chunky soil mix described earlier.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue or two. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
Yellowing Leaves
This is often a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture and ensure your pot has drainage holes. If the roots are mushy and brown, you may need to take cuttings to save the plant.
Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges
This is almost always due to low humidity. Increase the moisture in the air around your plant. It could also be from underwatering or a buildup of salts from tap water—using distilled or rainwater can help.
Lack of Red Color
If the new leaves are coming in mostly green, your plant likely needs more light. Gradually move it to a brighter location (avoiding direct sun) to encourage the anthocyanin production.
Pests
Keep an eye out for common houseplant pests. Spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips can sometimes appear.
* Action: Isolate the affected plant immediately. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating as needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How fast does the Philodendron El Choco Red grow?
With ideal conditions—good light, warmth, and humidity—it can put out a new leaf every month or so during the growing season. Growth will be slower in fall and winter.
Is the Philodendron El Choco Red toxic?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. It can cause irritation of the mouth and digestive tract. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.
Why are my new leaves smaller than the old ones?
Smaller new leaves can indicate a need for more light or a lack of nutrients. Ensure it’s getting enough bright indirect light and that you are feeding it regularly during the growing season with a balanced, diluted fertilizer.
Should I provide a moss pole for my El Choco Red?
While it can grow in a bushy form, providing a moss pole or plank to climb will support its natural growth habit. As a climbing philodendron, it will often produce larger, more mature leaves when given vertical support. The aerial roots will attach to the moist pole.
Where can I buy one of these plants?
Due to its rarity, you won’t typically find it at big-box stores. Check specialized online plant shops, Etsy, or local plant swaps and nurseries that focus on rare aroids. Be prepared for a higher price tag compared to common houseplants.
The Philodendron El Choco Red is a rewarding plant that offers a constant display of natural art. Paying attention to its light, water, and humidity needs is the secret to unlocking its full potential. With a little patience and the care tips outlined here, you can enjoy its stunning red-veined foliage for many years to come, making it a centerpiece of your indoor jungle. Remember, the key is to replicate its native tropical environment as closely as possible, and your plant will thank you with breathtaking growth.