Philodendron Black Cardinal

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a dramatic statement without needing constant attention, look no further. The philodendron black cardinal is a stunning dark foliage plant that stands out in any collection.

Its broad, spear-shaped leaves emerge a deep burgundy before maturing to an almost black-green. This color shift is one of its most captivating features. It’s a self-heading type, meaning it grows in a neat, clumping form rather than as a vine. This makes it perfect for tabletops or as a floor plant in a decorative pot.

Best of all, it’s surprisingly adaptable for such a exotic-looking plant. Let’s get into everything you need to know to keep yours thriving.

This plant is a cultivated hybrid, prized for its compact growth and incredible leaf color. It’s part of the Araceae family, related to peace lilies and monsteras. Unlike many philodendrons that trail or climb, the Black Cardinal grows upright from a central base.

New leaves are a coppery red, slowly deepening to that famous dark shade. The mature foliage has a leathery, substantial feel. A happy, mature plant can reach about 3 feet in height and spread, creating a full, lush appearance.

Ideal Light Conditions

Getting the light right is key to maintaining those rich, dark leaves. While it tolerates lower light, its color and growth will be best in bright, indirect light.

Perfect Spot: Near an east or north-facing window is ideal. A few feet back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain also works great.
Low Light Adaptation: It will survive in lower light, but growth will slow significantly. The leaves may also stay more green and not develop the deep, dark tones.
Too Much Sun: Avoid direct, harsh sunlight. This can scorch the leaves, causing pale, crispy brown patches. The leaves might also fade to a washed-out green.

Watering Your Plant Correctly

Overwatering is the fastest way to trouble. This plant likes to partially dry out between drinks.

Check the Soil: Before watering, stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Water Thoroughly: Water slowly and evenly until you see it run out of the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
Let it Drain: Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15-20 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water.
Adjust for Seasons: Water more frequently in the warm, bright growing season (spring and summer). In fall and winter, reduce watering as growth slows and the soil takes longer to dry.

Yellowing leaves often signal overwatering, while drooping or curling leaves with dry soil mean it’s thirsty.

Soil and Potting Needs

A well-draining, airy potting mix is non-negotiable. Standard garden soil is too dense and will hold to much moisture.

You can use a quality pre-mixed aroid soil. Or, make your own simple blend:

2 parts regular indoor potting mix
1 part perlite or pumice
1 part orchid bark

Repot every 2-3 years, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot. Choose a new pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter. A pot that’s too big holds excess soil that stays wet and can cause root rot.

Temperature and Humidity Preferences

As a tropical plant, it enjoys warmth and appreciates some humidity.

Temperature: Keep it in a room between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.
Humidity: Average home humidity (around 40-50%) is usually fine. If your air is very dry, you can boost humidity. Grouping plants together, using a pebble tray with water, or running a small humidifier nearby are all effective methods.

Brown, crispy leaf tips can sometimes be a sign of air that is consistently to dry.

Fertilizing for Healthy Growth

Feed your plant during its active growing period to support those large, beautiful leaves.

When to Feed: Fertilize from early spring through early fall.
What to Use: A balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half the recommended strength works perfectly.
How Often: Apply this diluted fertilizer once a month. You can also use a gentle, slow-release granular fertilizer at the beginning of the season.
When to Stop: Do not fertilize in the late fall and winter. The plant is resting and won’t use the nutrients, which can then build up and harm the roots.

Pruning and General Maintenance

This plant is naturally tidy, but a little upkeep keeps it looking its best.

Cleaning Leaves: Wipe the broad leaves with a damp cloth every month or so. This removes dust so the plant can breathe and absorb light efficiently. It also lets you check for pests.
Pruning: Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves at the base where they meet the main stem. Use clean, sharp scissors. You can also remove the occasional older, outer leaf to encourage new growth from the center.
Support: A mature plant may benefit from a small moss pole or stake if it becomes top-heavy. This helps it stay upright and can encourage larger leaf growth.

Common Pests and Problems

This philodendron is fairly resistant, but like all houseplants, it can occasionally have issues.

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and tiny dots on leaves. Increase humidity and wipe leaves regularly. For infestations, rinse the plant in the shower or use insecticidal soap.
Mealybugs: These look like small bits of white cotton, often in leaf joints. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove.
Fungus Gnats: Small black flies around the soil. They’re annoying but rarely harmful. Let the soil surface dry out more between waterings, and use yellow sticky traps.
Root Rot: Caused by overwatering. Signs include rapidly yellowing leaves, a foul smell from the soil, and mushy stems. You may need to repot, cutting away any black, mushy roots.

Propagation Guide

You can create new plants from your mature Black Cardinal through division. This is best done when you are repotting.

Gently remove the plant from its pot and brush away the soil to expose the root ball and base.
Look for natural divisions—separate stems with there own root systems.
Using your hands or a clean knife, carefully tease or cut the root mass to separate these sections.
Pot each new division into its own container with fresh, well-draining potting mix.
Water lightly and place in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. It may look droopy for a week or two as it establishes new roots.

Styling and Display Ideas

Its dark color makes it a versatile design element. It provides a beautiful contrast against light-colored walls or in bright, minimalist spaces. Place it in a neutral pot—white, cream, terracotta, or pale gray—to let the foliage be the star.

It also looks fantastic alongside plants with silver, lime green, or variegated leaves. Try pairing it with a Philodendron Brasil, a Neon Pothos, or a Stromanthe Triostar for a stunning display.

FAQ Section

Is the Philodendron Black Cardinal rare?
It used to be harder to find, but it’s become much more common in nurseries and online plant shops in recent years.

Why are my Black Cardinal’s leaves turning yellow?
The most common cause is overwatering. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot has good drainage. Older leaves occasionally yellow and die off naturally, but multiple yellow leaves usually signal a problem.

Can the Philodendron Black Cardinal take low light?
It can survive in lower light, but it won’t thrive. Growth will be very slow, and the leaves will likely remain green instead of developing their characteristic dark, almost black color.

Is this plant toxic to pets?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children.

How fast does the Black Cardinal philodendron grow?
It’s considered a moderately slow grower, especially in lower light conditions. With ideal bright, indirect light and proper care, you can expect a few new leaves each growing season.

Should I mist my philodendron?
Misting doesn’t significantly raise humidity and can promote fungal issues on leaves. Using a pebble tray or humidifier is a more effective method for providing consistent humidity.