If you’re looking for a statement houseplant that brings a piece of the jungle indoors, look no further. The philodendron bipinnatifidum – lush and deeply lobed is a spectacular choice for any plant lover.
This plant, often called the split-leaf philodendron or tree philodendron, is famous for its dramatic, glossy leaves. Each leaf is deeply cut, creating a beautiful, textured look. It’s a relatively easy plant to care for, making it perfect for both beginners and experts. Let’s get into everything you need to know to keep yours thriving.
Philodendron Bipinnatifidum – Lush and Deeply Lobed
This heading says it all. The philodendron bipinnatifidum is defined by its lush growth and those incredible deeply lobed leaves. It’s a tropical plant native to South America, where it can grow into a massive clump. Indoors, it maintains a more manageable but still impressive size. Its bold, architectural form makes it a natural focal point in any room.
What Makes This Philodendron So Special?
Beyond its looks, this plant is an excellent air purifier. It can help remove common household toxins from the air. It’s also a fast grower during the warm months, rewarding your care with new leaves regularly. Each new leaf unfurls from a cataphyll, a protective sheath, and it’s always exciting to watch.
Common Names and Confusion
You’ll often see this plant labeled as a “split-leaf philodendron” or “selloum.” It’s also frequently confused with the Monstera deliciosa. The key difference is in the leaves. While both have splits, Monstera leaves develop distinct holes, or fenestrations, while the philodendron bipinnatifidum’s leaves are just deeply cut. Also, the philodendron’s new leaves grow wrapped in a pinkish or reddish sheath.
Essential Care Requirements
Getting the basics right is simple. Here’s a quick overview of what this plant needs:
- Light: Bright, indirect light is ideal. It can tolerate medium light but growth will be slower.
- Water: Water when the top inch or two of soil feels dry. It dislikes soggy roots.
- Soil: A well-draining, peat-based potting mix is perfect.
- Humidity: Prefers moderate to high humidity, but adapts to average home levels.
- Temperature: Warmth between 65°F and 85°F (18°C – 29°C). Keep away from cold drafts.
Choosing the Right Spot in Your Home
Placement is crucial for your plant’s health and appearance. A spot near an east or north-facing window is often perfect. If you only have a south or west window, position the plant a few feet back from the glass or use a sheer curtain to filter the intense sun. Direct sunlight can scorch those beautiful leaves, causing brown, crispy patches.
Signs of Incorrect Light
Your plant will tell you if the light is wrong. Leggy growth, smaller leaves, and increased space between leaves means it needs more light. Yellowing or bleached, scorched leaves means it’s getting to much direct sun. Adjust its position accordingly.
Your Watering Guide: Avoiding the Biggest Mistake
Overwatering is the most common cause of problems. This plant likes to partially dry out between drinks. Here’s a simple method:
- Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about 2 inches into the pot.
- If it feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water.
- Water thoroughly until you see it run out of the drainage holes.
- Empty the saucer or cache pot after 15 minutes so the plant isn’t sitting in water.
In winter, reduce watering frequency as growth slows down. The plant will use less water when the days are shorter and cooler.
Water Quality Tip
These plants can be sensitive to chemicals in tap water, like fluoride and chlorine. If you notice brown leaf tips, try using filtered water, rainwater, or leave tap water out overnight before using it. This allows some chemicals to evaporate.
The Best Soil and Potting Mix Recipe
A good potting mix provides support, nutrients, and, most importantly, drainage. A standard houseplant mix works, but you can make an excellent custom blend. Here’s a simple recipe:
- 2 parts high-quality potting soil
- 1 part perlite or pumice (for aeration)
- 1 part orchid bark or coconut coir (for chunkiness and drainage)
This mix prevents the soil from compacting and ensures roots get plenty of oxygen. Repot your philodendron bipinnatifidum every 2-3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter each time.
Fertilizing for Lush Growth
To support those big, lush leaves, your plant needs nutrients. During the active growing season (spring and summer), fertilize once a month with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute it to half the strength recommended on the label. This prevents fertilizer burn. In fall and winter, you can stop fertilizing altogether as the plant isn’t actively growing.
A yellowing of older leaves can sometimes indicate a nutrient deficiency, often nitrogen. Regular, weak feeding during the growth season usually prevents this.
Managing Humidity for a Tropical Feel
While adaptable, your philodendron will truly thrive with higher humidity. If your home is dry, especially in winter, here are a few easy solutions:
- Pebble Tray: Place the pot on a tray filled with water and pebbles. Ensure the pot’s bottom is not sitting in the water.
- Grouping Plants: Cluster your plants together. They create a more humid microclimate.
- Humidifier: This is the most effective method for boosting humidity consistently.
Misting the leaves provides only a very temporary boost and isn’t usually necessary if you use other methods.
Pruning and Shaping Your Plant
Pruning helps maintain a attractive shape and control size. You can also remove any yellowing or damaged leaves. Always use clean, sharp pruning shears or scissors. Cut the leaf stem close to the main trunk. You may see a sticky sap; this is normal and can be wiped away. Pruning is best done in spring or early summer.
Dealing with Aerial Roots
As your plant matures, it will develop long, brown, rope-like aerial roots. These are normal! They help the plant absorb moisture and stability in its natural habitat. You can simply leave them be, tuck them back into the pot, or guide them toward a moss pole if you want to encourage vertical growth.
Propagation: How to Make More Plants
You can propagate your philodendron bipinnatifidum through division or stem cuttings. Division is the easiest method when you repot. Here’s how:
- Gently remove the plant from its pot and shake off excess soil.
- Look for natural divisions in the root clump—sections with their own stems and roots.
- Using your hands or a clean knife, carefully separate a section. Ensure it has healthy roots attached.
- Pot the new division in fresh soil and water it well. Keep it in a warm, humid spot as it establishes.
Common Pests and Problems
This plant is generally pest-resistant, but it can occasionally attract common houseplant bugs. Keep an eye out for:
- Spider Mites: Tiny spiders that create fine webbing, especially under leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Mealybugs: Small, white, cottony insects. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Scale: Brown or tan bumps on stems and leaves. Scrape them off or use horticultural oil.
Good care is the best prevention. A stressed plant is more susceptible to pests.
Yellowing Leaves: Diagnosis
Yellow leaves can have several causes. Older leaves yellowing and dying is a natural process. Many yellow leaves at once often points to overwatering. Yellow leaves with brown tips might indicate low humidity or chemical in the water. Assess your care routine to find the culprit.
Is the Philodendron Bipinnatifidum Pet Safe?
This is very important for pet owners. No, the philodendron bipinnatifidum is toxic to cats and dogs. It contains calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing if ingested. If you have curious pets, it’s best to place this plant well out of reach or choose a different, non-toxic plant.
Seasonal Care Calendar
Adjusting your care with the seasons keeps your plant healthy year-round.
- Spring & Summer (Growth Season): Water regularly, fertilize monthly, provide warm temperatures and bright light.
- Fall: Begin to reduce watering and stop fertilizing as growth slows.
- Winter (Dormant Season): Water sparingly, no fertilizer. Protect from cold drafts and heating vents. It may tolerate slightly lower light levels.
FAQ Section
Why are the leaves on my split leaf philodendron turning brown?
Brown leaf tips or edges are usually caused by low humidity or chemicals in tap water. Brown, crispy patches on the leaf surface are typically sunburn from direct light.
How fast does a philodendron selloum grow?
In ideal conditions with good light and warmth, it can put out several new leaves each growing season. Growth slows or stops in winter.
Can my philodendron bipinnatifidum go outside?
Yes, but only in warm months and in a shady or partially shaded spot. Acclimate it slowly to outdoor conditions. Bring it back inside well before nighttime temperatures drop below 60°F (15°C).
Should I use a moss pole for my tree philodendron?
In the wild, these plants are climbers. Providing a moss pole or sturdy stake can support its growth and encourage larger leaves as it matures. It’s not required, but it can lead to a more impressive specimen.
How big can a indoor philodendron bipinnatifidum get?
Indoors, with enough space and a large enough pot, it can reach 6 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Its growth is ultimately limited by the size of its container and your ceiling.
What should I do if my plant gets too large?
You can prune it back in spring to control its size. You can also propagate it by division to create smaller plants and give the original more room. Sometimes, just moving it to a larger floor space is the simplest solution.
Caring for a philodendron bipinnatifidum is a rewarding experience. Its dramatic, deeply lobed foliage brings a vibrant, tropical energy to your home. By following these simple guidelines on light, water, and soil, you’ll be able to enjoy its lush presence for many years to come. Remember to check the soil before watering, provide bright indirect light, and don’t worry to much about the occasional yellow leaf—it’s all part of the journey with this magnificent plant.