If you’re looking for plants that add year-round beauty with minimal fuss, ornamental grasses for zone 7 are a perfect choice for sunny borders. These versatile plants bring movement, texture, and graceful form to your garden, thriving in the full sun that defines so many of our planting areas.
Their appeal is hard to beat. Once established, most are drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. They ask for little but give so much: from the soft rustle of their blades in the breeze to their stunning winter silhouettes dusted with frost. Let’s look at how to choose, plant, and care for these indispensable garden performers.
Ornamental Grasses For Zone 7 – Perfect For Sunny Borders
This category includes a wide array of plants, from towering giants to tidy mounds. The key for zone 7 is selecting varieties that can handle our winter lows (0°F to 10°F) and our often hot, humid summers. The good news is, there are many superb options.
Top Picks for Sun-Loving Zone 7 Gardens
Here are some of the most reliable and beautiful ornamental grasses that will excel in your sunny border.
Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)
This is often the first grass recommended, and for good reason. It’s incredibly upright and clump-forming, with early-season plumes that turn golden-tan and last all winter. It’s one of the first grasses to wake up in spring.
- Height: 4-6 feet
- Key Feature: Vertical accent, very early bloomer
- Care: Cut back in late winter before new growth emerges.
Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum)
A native North American grass, Panicum is tough as nails. It offers airy flower panicles in mid-summer and fantastic fall color in shades of yellow, orange, and red. Many cultivars have beautiful blue-green summer foliage.
- Height: 3-6 feet (varies by cultivar)
- Key Feature: Excellent fall color, native plant benefits
- Top Cultivars: ‘Northwind’ (very upright), ‘Shenandoah’ (red-tipped foliage), ‘Heavy Metal’ (steel blue).
Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides)
Fountain Grass is beloved for its bottlebrush-like flower spikes that appear in mid to late summer. They arch over the foliage like a fountain, hence the name. It provides superb texture and a soft, inviting look.
- Height: 2-4 feet
- Key Feature: Showy, fuzzy flower spikes
- Note: The species is generally hardy in zone 7. Avoid the popular Pennisetum setaceum (Annual Fountain Grass) which is not winter-hardy here.
Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
Another outstanding native, Little Bluestem is a star of the autumn garden. Its fine-textured blue-green summer foliage turns a stunning mix of copper, orange, and mahogany in fall, holding the color well into winter.
- Height: 2-4 feet
- Key Feature: Unbeatable multi-season fall and winter color
- Ecological Value: Provides food and shelter for birds and insects.
Japanese Silver Grass (Miscanthus sinensis)
Miscanthus offers a huge range of sizes and forms, many with striking variegated foliage or silvery plumes. It’s a late-season performer, flowering from late summer into fall.
Important: Choose sterile cultivars that do not set seed. Some Miscanthus varieties can be invasive in certain areas. Always check with your local extension service.
- Height: 3-8 feet (varies widely)
- Key Feature: Architectural presence, beautiful plume
- Sterile Cultivars: ‘Morning Light’ (fine white variegation), ‘Strictus’ (Porcupine Grass, horizontal gold bands), ‘Adagio’ (dwarf, graceful form).
Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)
This grass forms a perfect, rounded clump of stunning steel-blue foliage. It sends up wheat-colored flower stems in early summer that contrast beautifully with the blue leaves. It prefers good drainage.
- Height: 2-3 feet
- Key Feature: Intense blue foliage color, neat habit
- Care: Evergreen in mild winters; comb out dead leaves in spring instead of cutting back hard.
Designing Your Sunny Border with Grasses
Ornamental grasses are the glue that holds a planting scheme together. They can fill so many roles, from focal point to filler. Here’s how to use them effectively.
Creating Layers and Rhythm
Use taller grasses like Miscanthus or Panicum at the back of the border as a screen or backdrop. Mid-height grasses like most Fountain Grasses or Switch Grasses belong in the middle layer. Low mounding grasses like Blue Fescue work beautifully at the front edge.
Repeat the same grass in several spots along the border. This creates a sense of rhythm and cohesion, tying the whole design together.
Playing with Texture and Form
This is where grasses truly shine. Contrast the fine, hair-like blades of Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima – use with caution, can self-sow) with the broad, strappy leaves of a daylily. Place the strict, vertical lines of ‘Karl Foerster’ next to the mounded form of a shrub.
Grasses add a soft, fine texture that complements the bolder leaves of plants like hostas, bergenia, or sedum. Don’t forget about their winter form—this is a critical part of there year-round appeal.
Color Throughout the Seasons
Think beyond green. Incorporate the blue of Blue Oat Grass, the red tips of Panicum ‘Shenandoah’, or the gold stripes of Miscanthus ‘Strictus’. In fall, the crimson of Little Bluestem or the yellow of Switch Grass becomes a major focal point.
Pair grasses with flowering perennials that bloom at different times. The grass will provide a constant, attractive foil for the flowers. For example, the airy plumes of Calamagrostis look lovely behind purple coneflowers in summer and stand strong after the flowers fade.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Getting your grasses off to a good start is simple. Follow these steps for success.
- Choose the Right Time: The best times to plant are early spring or early fall. This gives the roots time to establish before the stress of summer heat or winter cold.
- Prepare the Soil: Most grasses prefer well-drained soil. Work the area to loosen the soil about twice as wide as the pot and just as deep. Mix in some compost to improve fertility and drainage, but avoid heavy fertilizers.
- Plant at the Correct Depth: Remove the grass from its container and gently tease out the roots if they are pot-bound. Place it in the hole so the crown (where the stems meet the roots) is level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deep can cause rot.
- Water Thoroughly: Backfill with soil, firm gently, and water deeply to settle the roots and eliminate air pockets.
- Apply Mulch: Spread 2-3 inches of organic mulch, like shredded bark, around the plant. Keep the mulch away from the crown to prevent moisture buildup.
Essential Care and Maintenance
One of the best things about ornamental grasses is there easy care. Here’s what you need to do to keep them looking their best.
Watering
While establishing, water regularly for the first growing season. Once established, most grasses are remarkably drought-tolerant. Deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent shallow sprinkles. It encourages deep root growth.
The Annual Cutback
This is the main task. Leave the foliage standing through winter for visual interest and wildlife shelter. In late winter or early spring, before new growth starts, cut the entire clump back.
- For smaller grasses: Use sharp shears or hedge trimmers.
- For large, tough clumps: Use electric hedge trimmers or even a small chainsaw for old Miscanthus clumps. Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Cut to within 4-6 inches of the ground. Be careful not to damage any new green shoots that may be emerging at the base.
Dividing for Health and Propagation
Every few years, a grass clump may begin to die out in the center. This is a sign it needs dividing. Division is best done in spring as growth resumes.
- Dig up the entire clump.
- Use a sharp spade, an old saw, or even two garden forks back-to-back to pry or cut the clump into smaller sections.
- Replant a healthy division from the outer edge, discard the woody center, and share or replant the other pieces.
Fertilizing
Ornamental grasses rarely need heavy feeding. An application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or a top-dressing of compost in spring is usually sufficient. To much nitrogen can cause floppy growth.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
These plants are generally trouble-free, but here are a few issues to watch for.
- Flopping Over: This is usually caused by too much shade, too much fertilizer, or not enough support for a tall variety. Ensure full sun, go easy on the feed, and consider planting in groups so they support each other.
- Center Die-Out: As mentioned, this is a natural sign of an aging clump. The solution is simple: divide the plant in spring.
- Rust or Fungal Leaf Spots: These can occur in humid, wet summers. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and clean up fallen foliage. It’s rarely fatal, and the cutback in spring will remove affected material.
- Failure to Bloom: If a grass doesn’t flower, it might be getting too much nitrogen (which pushes leaf growth), or it might be a variety that needs a longer growing season than your microclimate provides. Patience is often key.
FAQ: Ornamental Grasses in Zone 7
Q: Can I plant ornamental grasses in the fall in zone 7?
A: Yes, early fall is an excellent time. This allows the roots to establish in the cooler soil before winter dormancy, giving them a head start for spring.
Q: Are any of these grasses invasive in my area?
A: It’s always wise to check. Some Miscanthus sinensis cultivars can self-sow prolifically. Stick with known sterile cultivars like ‘Morning Light’. Japanese Knotweed is invasive, but it’s not a true ornamental grass commonly sold.
Q: Do ornamental grasses need to be cut back in fall?
A: It’s better to wait until late winter. The standing foliage provides winter interest, protects the crown from extreme cold, and offers habitat for beneficial insects.
Q: What are the best short ornamental grasses for a border edge?
A: Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca), Dwarf Fountain Grass (like Pennisetum ‘Little Bunny’), and the compact Switch Grass ‘Cheyenne Sky’ are all fantastic low-growing options.
Q: How do I stop my grasses from self-seeding everywhere?
A> Choose sterile cultivars when possible. For others, the simplest method is to remove the seed heads (plumes) in late fall before they fully shatter and disperse.
Q: Can I grow ornamental grasses in containers?
A: Absolutely! Choose a large pot with drainage holes and use a quality potting mix. Dwarf varieties are best suited. Remember that potted plants need more frequent watering and may need winter protection, as the roots are more exposed to cold.
Final Thoughts
Incorporating ornamental grasses into your sunny zone 7 border is one of the smartest decisions you can make for year-round structure and beauty. They ask for little, contribute so much, and bring a dynamic, naturalistic feeling to the garden that few other plant groups can match.
Start with one or two of the reliable varieties listed here, like the steadfast ‘Karl Foerster’ or the colorful Little Bluestem. Observe how they change with the seasons and how they complement your existing plants. You’ll likely soon find yourself making room for more, as their graceful forms and easy-going nature prove indispensable in creating a balanced, lively, and resilient garden.