If you want an orchid that fills your home with a sweet, memorable fragrance, look no further than the oncidium sharry baby – fragrant chocolate-scented orchid. This popular hybrid is famous for its prolific blooms and unique scent that many describe as rich vanilla or baking chocolate.
It’s a rewarding plant for both beginners and experienced growers. With the right care, it can produce hundreds of small, beautiful flowers. This guide gives you everything you need to keep your Sharry Baby thriving and blooming year after year.
Oncidium Sharry Baby – Fragrant Chocolate-Scented Orchid
This orchid is a man-made hybrid, officially known as Oncidium ‘Sharry Baby’. It was created by orchid breeder James M. F. Belle in 1983. Its parents are Oncidium Jamie Sutton and Oncidium Honolulu.
What makes it so special is the combination of visual appeal and powerful fragrance. The scent is strongest in the late afternoon and evening. Not everyone smells pure chocolate; notes of vanilla, honey, and even cinnamon are common.
What Does It Look Like?
The plant has typical oncidium structure. It grows from pseudobulbs, which are swollen stem that store water. Long, strappy leaves emerge from these bulbs.
- Flowers: Small, about 1 inch across. They are typically red, white, and yellow in a striking pattern. Some varieties are more red or more white.
- Spray: Flowers grow on a tall, branching spike that can reach 3 feet or more. A well-grown plant can produce multiple spikes with hundreds of flowers at once.
- Foliage: Light green, pleated leaves that arch gracefully. They can grow quite long, adding to the plant’s visual interest even when not in bloom.
Why Choose a Sharry Baby?
Beyond the obvious fragrance, this orchid has several advantages. It adapts well to typical home conditions. It’s also a reliable bloomer when its basic needs are met.
It’s a sympodial orchid, meaning it grows horizontally. New growths appear from the base of older pseudobulbs. This growth habit means it can eventually become a large, impressive specimen.
Ideal Growing Environment
Recreating its preferred conditions is the key to success. Think about where it grows in nature—not on the ground, but attached to trees in dappled sunlight.
Light Requirements
Bright, indirect light is perfect. An east-facing window is ideal. A south or west window is good if you use a sheer curtain to filter the strongest rays.
- Sign of too much light: Leaves turn a yellowish or reddish color. They may even get sunburned with black or brown patches.
- Sign of too little light: Leaves become very dark green and limp. The plant will not bloom.
Temperature & Humidity
This orchid enjoys intermediate to warm temperatures with a noticeable drop at night. This temperature variation helps trigger blooming.
- Daytime: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
- Nighttime: 60–65°F (15–18°C)
- Humidity: Aim for 40–70%. Most homes are on the drier side, so you might need to boost humidity.
Simple ways to increase humidity include using a humidifier, placing the pot on a tray of pebbles with water, or grouping it with other plants.
Watering Your Orchid Correctly
Overwatering is the most common mistake. Oncidiums like to dry out a bit between waterings, but not completely bone dry for too long.
- Check the potting media with your finger. If the top inch feels dry, it’s usually time to water.
- Take the plant to the sink and water thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes. This ensures the roots get fully wet.
- Let all excess water drain away completely. Never let the pot sit in a saucer of water, as this will rot the roots.
- In warmer, brighter months, you may water once a week. In cooler, darker winter months, you might water every 10–14 days.
The pseudobulbs are a good indicator. Plump, firm bulbs mean the plant is well-hydrated. Wrinkled, shriveled bulbs suggest it needs more water or has root problems.
The Best Potting Mix and Containers
These orchids need excellent drainage and air flow around their roots. They are almost always grown in a special orchid mix, not regular potting soil.
A common mix for oncidiums includes:
- Medium-grade fir bark
- Perlite or sponge rock
- Sometimes a little chopped sphagnum moss (to retain a bit of moisture)
You can buy a pre-made oncidium mix or make your own. The mix will break down over time and become too dense. You should repot every 1–2 years, or when you see the media starting to decompose.
Choosing a Pot
Plastic or clay pots with multiple drainage holes are both fine. Plastic retains moisture longer. Clay pots allow the media to dry faster. Many growers prefer plastic for stability, as the tall flower spikes can make the plant top-heavy.
Make sure the pot is only slightly larger than the rootball. Orchids generally like to be a bit snug in their pots.
Step-by-Step Guide to Repotting
The best time to repot is when you see new growth starting, usually right after flowering. Here’s how to do it safely.
- Gather your supplies: new pot, fresh potting mix, sterilized scissors or pruners, and a stake for support if needed.
- Carefully remove the orchid from its old pot. You may need to gently squeeze the pot or use a tool to loosen the roots.
- Shake off all the old potting media. Rinse the roots with lukewarm water to get a clear view.
- Trim away any dead or rotten roots. Healthy roots are firm and white or green. Dead roots are mushy and brown. Use sterilized tools to prevent spreading disease.
- Place the plant in the new pot. Position the oldest pseudobulbs against the edge, with room for new growths to expand toward the center.
- Hold the plant at the right height and gently fill in around the roots with the new mix. Tap the pot to settle the media, but don’t pack it down tightly.
- Water the plant thoroughly to settle the media around the roots. You may need to provide extra support for the first few weeks while new roots establish.
Feeding for Growth and Flowers
Because the potting mix has little nutritional value, you must provide fertilizer regularly. A balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer is perfect.
A good rule is “weakly, weekly.” Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 or 1/2 the strength recommended on the label and apply it every time you water during the growing season.
- During active growth (spring/summer): Use a balanced formula like 20-20-20.
- To encourage blooming (late summer/fall): Switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, like 10-30-20.
- In winter: Reduce or stop fertilizing if the plant is not actively growing.
Always water the plant with plain water first before applying fertilizer solution. This prevents root burn.
Getting It to Bloom Again
A healthy Sharry Baby should bloom at least once a year, often in late summer or fall. Some well-grown plants can bloom twice. If yours isn’t flowering, check these factors.
- Light: This is the number one reason for no blooms. Ensure it’s getting enough bright, indirect light.
- Temperature Drop: The plant needs a 10-15 degree difference between day and night temperatures in the weeks leading up to bloom season. Try moving it to a cooler room at night.
- Fertilizer: Are you using a bloom-booster formula at the right time? Proper nutrition is essential.
- Plant Maturity: Very young, small divisions may need to grow larger before they have the energy to bloom.
Once a flower spike appears, you can stake it gently for support. Enjoy the show—the blooms can last for 4-6 weeks or more.
Common Pests and Problems
Like all houseplants, Sharry Baby orchids can encounter a few issues. Catching them early makes treatment easier.
Yellowing Leaves
One or two older leaves yellowing and falling off is normal as the plant grows. Many yellow leaves at once is a problem.
- Could be overwatering and root rot.
- Could be too much direct sun.
- Could be a severe nutrient deficiency.
Brown Leaf Tips
This is often caused by low humidity, salt buildup from fertilizer, or inconsistent watering. You can trim the brown tips off with sterile scissors, cutting in the shape of the leaf tip to look natural.
Pests to Watch For
- Scale: Small, brown, bumpy insects attached to leaves or pseudobulbs. Wipe off with alcohol on a cotton swab.
- Spider Mites: Tiny red or brown mites that cause fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Increase humidity and wash leaves or use a miticide.
- Aphids: Sometimes attracted to new flower spikes. Blast them off with water or use insecticidal soap.
Isolate any new plant for a few weeks before placing it near your other orchids. This prevents spreading pests.
Propagating Your Plant
You can create new plants by division when you repot. Only divide large, healthy plants with at least 6-8 mature pseudobulbs.
- Remove the plant from its pot and clean the roots as described in the repotting section.
- Find a natural point to divide, where the rhizome (the horizontal stem connecting bulbs) can be cut. Each division should have at least 3-4 healthy pseudobulbs with good roots.
- Using a sterile knife, cut through the rhizome.
- Pot each division separately in fresh media. You may need to provide extra humidity (like a clear plastic bag tent) for a few weeks while the new divisions establish.
Smaller divisions will take longer to recover and bloom. It’s better to make fewer, larger divisions for quicker results.
Seasonal Care Calendar
Adjust your care routine throughout the year to match the plant’s natural cycle.
Spring (Growth Season)
- New growth begins. Increase watering frequency as temperatures rise.
- Resume or increase fertilizing with balanced formula.
- This is an excellent time for repotting if needed.
Summer (Potential Bloom Season)
- Watch for flower spike initiation. Continue regular watering and feeding.
- Protect from intense midday heat and sun.
- Ensure good air circulation.
Fall (Bloom & Preparation)
- Enjoy the flowers! Ensure the plant gets its nighttime temperature drop.
- As growth slows, begin to reduce watering slightly.
- You can switch to a bloom-booster fertilizer earlier in the season.
Winter (Rest Period)
- Reduce watering significantly, allowing more time between waterings.
- Stop or drastically reduce fertilizing.
- Maintain good light levels. Keep away from cold drafts and heating vents.
FAQ Section
How strong is the chocolate scent on the Oncidium Sharry Baby?
The fragrance is quite strong, especially in a enclosed space like a living room. It’s most potent in the evening. Not every plant or every person’s nose perceives it identically, but most people find it very noticeable and pleasant.
Why are the leaves on my Sharry Baby orchid wrinkled?
Wrinkled leaves or pseudobulbs usually indicate a water stress. This could be from underwatering, where the roots are too dry. More often, it’s from overwatering, which has caused root rot, so the plant can’t take up water even though the media is wet. Check the roots health immediately.
How often does the chocolate orchid bloom?
With proper care, you can expect a bloom cycle at least once per year. Mature, happy plants can sometimes surprise you with a second, smaller flush of flowers. The main blooming period is typically late summer through fall.
Can I grow this orchid in sphagnum moss?
While some growers use moss successfully, it retains a lot of moisture and can lead to root rot if you’re not careful. It’s generally easier for most people, especially beginners, to use a well-draining bark-based mix. If you use moss, you must water much less frequently.
What do I do with the flower spike after blooming?
You have a couple options. You can cut the entire spike off at the base near the pseudobulb if it turns brown. Sometimes, the spike stays green; in that case, you can cut it back to just above a lower node (a small triangular bract on the spike). There’s a chance it may branch and produce more flowers, thought they will be smaller.
Is the Oncidium Sharry Baby easy to care for?
Yes, it is considered one of the more beginner-friendly fragrant orchids. Its requirements for light, water, and temperature are clear and manageable in a home environment. If you can provide bright light and avoid overwatering, you are likely to succeed.
Caring for an Oncidium Sharry Baby is a truly enjoyable experience. Its spectacular floral displays and enchanting fragrance make the effort worthwhile. By following these practical steps for light, water, and seasonal care, you’ll be rewarded with a healthy plant that brings a touch of the tropics into your home for many years. Remember, consistency is more important than perfection in orchid care.