Monstera Borsigiana

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a statement without making a lot of work, you’ve found it. The Monstera Borsigiana is elegant and easy-care, a perfect combination for both new and experienced plant lovers. Its beautiful, split leaves bring a touch of the jungle to any room, and it’s surprisingly forgiving. This guide will show you everything you need to know to keep your plant thriving.

Often confused with its larger cousin, Monstera deliciosa, the Borsigiana is a distinct variety. It’s known for its slightly smaller, more manageable growth habit and faster maturation. You’ll see those iconic fenestrations (the holes and splits in the leaves) appear earlier in its life. It’s a classic for good reason—it simply looks stunning.

What Makes It So Special?

This plant has a timeless appeal. The glossy, heart-shaped leaves develop deep splits as they mature, creating beautiful patterns of light and shadow. It’s a vigorous climber in its natural habitat, and with a little support, it can grow into a magnificent, towering feature in your home.

Visual Impact: Large, fenestrated leaves create an instant tropical feel.
Adaptability: Tolerates a range of indoor conditions better than many finicky plants.
Growth Rate: It grows at a satisfying pace, letting you see noticeable changes.
Air Purification: Like many houseplants, it helps filter indoor air.

Light Requirements: Finding the Sweet Spot

Light is the most important ingredient for a healthy Monstera Borsigiana. Get this right, and you’re most of the way there.

This plant prefers bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight it would receive under the canopy of taller trees in the rainforest. A spot near an east or north-facing window is often ideal. A south or west window can work too, but you may need to diffuse the strong afternoon sun with a sheer curtain.

Signs of Too Much or Too Little Light

Too Much Light: Leaves may turn pale, develop yellow or brown crispy patches, or look bleached. The soil will dry out very quickly.
Too Little Light: Growth will slow down or stop completely. New leaves will be smaller and lack fenestrations. The plant may also become “leggy,” with long stretches of stem between leaves as it reaches for light.

Watering Your Monstera Borsigiana Correctly

Overwatering is the number one cause of problems. These plants like to dry out a bit between drinks.

Check the Soil: Before you water, stick your finger about 2-3 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, wait a few more days.
Water Thoroughly: When you do water, do it properly. Pour water evenly over the soil until you see it start to run out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
Let it Drain: Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15-20 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water, as this leads to root rot.

In general, you’ll water more often in the warm, bright growing season (spring and summer) and much less often in the dormant season (fall and winter). The type of pot also matters—plants in terracotta dry out faster than those in plastic or ceramic.

The Ideal Soil and Potting Mix

Your Monstera needs a soil that holds some moisture but drains excess water incredibly well. A standard houseplant potting mix is a good start, but you should amend it for better aeration.

A simple recipe is to mix two parts regular potting mix with one part perlite and one part orchid bark. The perlite creates air pockets, and the chunky bark mimics the plant’s natural epiphytic tendencies, allowing roots to breath. This mix prevents the soil from becoming compacted and soggy.

When and How to Repot

You’ll know it’s time to repot when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, or when the plant seems to dry out extremely quickly. This is typically needed every 1-2 years in spring or early summer.

Choose a new pot that is only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. Too big a pot holds too much wet soil.
Gently remove the plant from its old pot. Loosen the root ball slightly with your fingers, especially if it’s very tight.
Place some fresh potting mix in the bottom of the new pot. Position the plant in the center and fill in around the sides with more mix.
Water the plant well to help it settle into its new home. It’s normal for the plant to look a little shocked for a week or two after repotting.

Humidity and Temperature Preferences

As a tropical plant, Monstera Borsigiana enjoys higher humidity, but it’s quite adaptable to average home conditions. Aim for 40-60% humidity if you can.

Increasing Humidity: Group plants together, use a pebble tray filled with water (keep the pot above the water line), or run a humidifier nearby.
Temperature: Keep it in a room between 65°F and 85°F (18°C – 29°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.

Feeding for Lush Growth

During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your plant once a month with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute it to half the strength recommended on the bottle. This provides nutrients without risking fertilizer burn.

In fall and winter, when growth slows, stop fertilizing. The plant isn’t actively growing and won’t use the nutrients, which can then build up and harm the roots. Resume feeding when you see new growth in spring.

Pruning and Training

Pruning helps maintain your plant’s shape and encourages bushier growth. You can prune any time of year, but spring is best.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
Cut just above a leaf node (the small bump on the stem where a leaf attaches). This is where new growth will emerge from.
You can remove any yellowing or damaged leaves at their base.

Since this is a climbing plant, providing a moss pole or trellis gives it support. This allows it to grow upwards, mimicking its natural habit and often encouraging larger leaf development. Gently tie the stems to the support with soft plant ties or twine.

Common Problems and Simple Solutions

Even easy-care plants can have issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellow Leaves

This is a common sign. The cause depends on the pattern. If the lower, older leaves are yellowing slowly, it’s probably just natural aging. If many leaves are yellowing, especially new growth, it’s often overwatering. Check your soil moisture habits.

Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges

Usually caused by low humidity or underwatering. It can also be a sign of too much direct sun or a buildup of salts from tap water or fertilizer. Try using filtered or distilled water if your tap water is very hard.

Pests

Keep an eye out for sap-sucking pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth to deter them. If you see pests, isolate the plant and treat it with insecticidal soap or neem oil, following the product instructions carefully.

Propagation: Making More Plants

Propagating Monstera Borsigiana is straightforward and rewarding. The easiest method is stem cuttings in water.

Identify a healthy stem with at least one leaf and one visible aerial root (the brown, nubby growth coming from the stem).
Using clean shears, cut about a half-inch below the aerial root.
Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node and aerial root are submerged but the leaf is not.
Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water every few days to keep it fresh.
In a few weeks, you should see new white roots growing from the node. Once the roots are a few inches long, you can pot the cutting in soil.

Styling Your Home with Monstera Borsigiana

This plant’s versatility is part of its charm. A young plant looks beautiful on a shelf or side table. As it grows larger, it makes a fantastic floor plant. Let it climb a moss pole in an empty corner to fill vertical space, or allow it to trail from a high shelf for a cascading effect. Its lush green color complements almost every interior design style, from modern minimalist to cozy boho.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is Monstera Borsigiana the same as Monstera deliciosa?

They are very closely related, but many consider Borsigiana a smaller subspecies or variety. It tends to have slightly smaller leaves, a more vining growth habit, and develops fenestrations earlier than the classic deliciosa.

How fast does Monstera Borsigiana grow?

In good conditions with adequate light and warmth, it can put out a new leaf every month or so during the growing season. Growth slows or pauses in the winter.

Why are there no splits in my Monstera leaves?

Lack of fenestrations is almost always due to insufficient light. Move your plant to a brighter location (with indirect light) and be patient. New leaves that develop should start to show the characteristic splits.

Is Monstera Borsigiana toxic to pets?

Yes, like all Monsteras, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are irritating if ingested. It’s best to keep this plant out of reach of curious cats and dogs to avoid potential mouth or stomach upset.

Can I put my Monstera outside in summer?

You can, but you must be careful. Acclimate it slowly to the stronger outdoor light over a week or two, starting in full shade. Never place it in direct, hot sun. Bring it back inside well before nighttime temperatures drop below 60°F.

How do I clean the dust off the leaves?

Dust blocks light. Wipe the leaves gently with a soft, damp cloth every few weeks. You can also give the plant a lukewarm shower occasionally, just let it drain thoroughly afterwards. This keeps the leaves shiny and efficient.

Caring for a Monstera Borsigiana is a joy. By providing the right balance of light, water, and support, you’ll be rewarded with a magnificent, architectural plant that grows alongside you for years to come. Its elegant presence and resilient nature make it a true standout in the world of houseplants. Remember to check the soil before watering, and don’t be afraid to give it plenty of indirect light. With these simple tips, your plant will not just survive, but truly thrive.