If you enjoy growing unique vegetables with great flavor, you should meet the Korean long green pepper. This pepper is known for being spicy and subtly sweet, making it a fantastic choice for many dishes. It’s a staple in Korean kitchens, but its uses go far beyond one cuisine. Growing it yourself is rewarding and surprisingly straightforward, even if you’re new to gardening.
This guide will walk you through everything from planting seeds to harvesting your crop. You’ll learn how to care for the plants and what to do with your peppers once they’re ready. Let’s get started on bringing this versatile pepper into your garden.
Korean Long Green Pepper – Spicy and Subtly Sweet
This specific pepper, often called “Cheongyang” in Korea, is a medium-heat chili. It’s longer and thinner than a jalapeño, usually about 3 to 5 inches long. The skin is smooth and glossy, and the pepper matures from a light green to a vibrant red. The real magic is in its balanced taste—it has a noticeable kick that builds slowly, followed by a clear, sweet aftertaste. This makes it perfect for eating fresh, cooked, or fermented.
Why Grow Korean Long Green Peppers?
You might wonder why you should dedicate garden space to this particular pepper. Here are a few compelling reasons:
- Dual Flavor Profile: The combination of heat and sweetness is unique. It adds complexity to salsas, stir-fries, and pickles without overwhelming other ingredients.
- High Yield: Healthy plants are very productive. A few plants can provide enough peppers for a family throughout the summer.
- Container Friendly: They adapt well to growing in pots on a sunny patio or balcony, so you don’t need a large garden.
- Culinary Versatility: You can use them at every stage of growth, from mild green to hotter and sweeter red.
Starting Your Peppers from Seed
For the best results, you’ll want to start your peppers indoors. This gives them a long head start before the warm outdoor growing season begins.
What You’ll Need
- Korean long green pepper seeds (from a reputable source)
- Seed starting trays or small pots
- Seed starting mix (light and well-draining)
- Plant grow lights or a very sunny south-facing window
- A warm spot (like the top of a refrigerator) for germination
Step-by-Step Seed Starting
- Timing is Key: Start your seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last expected spring frost date. For most areas, this is late winter.
- Plant the Seeds: Fill your trays with moist seed mix. Plant 2-3 seeds per cell, about 1/4 inch deep. Gently cover them with soil.
- Provide Warmth and Moisture: Cover the tray with a plastic dome or plastic wrap to keep humidity high. Place it in a warm location (75-85°F). The soil should stay moist but not soggy.
- Watch for Sprouts: Seeds typically germinate in 10-21 days. Once you see the first green shoots, immediately remove the plastic cover.
- Give Them Light: Move the seedlings under bright grow lights, keeping the lights just a few inches above the leaves. If using a window, make sure it’s the sunniest one you have.
- Thin and Feed: When seedlings have two sets of true leaves, thin to one strong plant per cell. You can begin feeding with a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Transplanting to the Garden
You can’t rush peppers into cold soil. They need warm nights to truly thrive.
Hardening Off Your Plants
About 7-10 days before you plan to transplant, begin hardening off your seedlings. This means acclimating them to outdoor conditions. Set them outside in a sheltered, partly shady spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their time outside and exposure to sun and wind. This prevents shock and sunscald.
Choosing the Perfect Spot
- Sunlight: Pick the sunniest location in your garden. Peppers need at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.
- Soil: The soil should be rich, loose, and well-draining. Work in several inches of compost or aged manure a few weeks before planting.
- Spacing: Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows that are 24 to 36 inches apart. Good air circulation helps prevent disease.
The Transplanting Process
- Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F.
- Water your seedlings well in their pots a few hours before transplanting.
- Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of each seedling.
- Gently remove the plant and place it in the hole, planting it at the same depth it was in its pot. Some gardeners like to plant them a little deeper for extra support.
- Fill the hole with soil, firm it gently around the stem, and water thoroughly.
- Consider adding a stake or small tomato cage right away for future support, especially if you live in a windy area.
Caring for Your Growing Plants
Consistent care is simple but leads to a much bigger harvest. Here’s what your peppers need to flourish.
Watering and Mulching
Peppers like consistent moisture. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water deeply at the base of the plant to encourage deep roots, and try to avoid wetting the leaves to reduce disease risk. The best time to water is in the morning.
After transplanting, apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (like straw or shredded leaves) around the plants. This keeps the soil moist, suppresses weeds, and keeps soil temperature even.
Feeding for Success
These peppers are moderate feeders. Too much nitrogen, however, will give you lots of leaves and few fruits. Here’s a simple feeding schedule:
- At transplant time, mix a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer into the soil according to package directions.
- When the first flowers appear, switch to a fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium (like a tomato fertilizer) to support blooming and fruiting.
- Feed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season, stopping about a month before your first expected fall frost.
Pruning and Support
You don’t have to prune pepper plants, but a little attention can help. Pinching off the very first set of flower buds that appears on young transplants encourages the plant to put its energy into growing bigger and stronger before setting fruit. As the plant grows, you can remove any small, non-productive shoots in the lower interior to improve air flow. The fruits can get heavy, so using a stake or cage to keep branches from bending or breaking is a smart idea.
Harvesting and Storing Your Peppers
Knowing when and how to pick your peppers ensures the best flavor and encourages more production.
When to Harvest
You can harvest Korean long green peppers at any stage. The flavor changes as they mature:
- Green Stage: Picked when fully sized but still green, the peppers are crisp with a bright, grassy heat. The sweetness is less pronounced.
- Red Stage: If left on the plant, they will turn a deep red. At this stage, they are hotter and their subtle sweetness becomes much more noticeable. The flavor is richer and more complex.
Use a sharp pair of scissors or pruners to cut the pepper from the plant, leaving a short stub of stem attached. Pulling them off can damage the branches.
How to Store Your Harvest
Fresh peppers will keep in your refrigerator’s crisper drawer for up to two weeks. For long-term storage, you have several great options:
- Freezing: Wash, dry, and slice the peppers. Spread them on a baking sheet to freeze individually, then transfer to a freezer bag. They’ll keep for 6-8 months and are perfect for cooking.
- Drying: String them up in a warm, dry, airy place or use a food dehydrator. Dried peppers can be ground into a fantastic homemade chili powder.
- Pickling or Fermenting: This is a classic Korean method. Pickled peppers (like “kkwari-gochu-jangajji”) are a crunchy, spicy-sweet condiment that lasts for months in the fridge.
Common Pests and Problems
Even with good care, you might encounter a few issues. Here’s how to handle common ones.
Pests to Watch For
- Aphids: Small green or black insects on new growth. Blast them off with a strong spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
- Pepper Weevils or Hornworms: Larger pests that chew holes in leaves and fruit. Hand-pick them off and drop them in soapy water.
- Flea Beetles: Tiny black beetles that make small holes in leaves. Row covers when plants are young are the best prevention.
Disease Prevention
Most diseases are fungal or bacterial and are caused by wet leaves and poor air circulation.
- Blossom End Rot: A dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the fruit. This is caused by calcium deficiency often linked to irregular watering. Keep soil evenly moist and mulch well.
- Powdery Mildew: White powdery spots on leaves. Improve air flow, water at the base, and treat with a baking soda solution or organic fungicide if needed.
Always remove and dispose of badly affected leaves or plants to prevent the spread of disease. Don’t compost them.
Using Your Korean Long Green Peppers
Your homegrown peppers are incredibly versatile. Here are some simple ways to enjoy them.
- Fresh: Slice them thinly and add to salads, sandwiches, or tacos for a fresh crunch and heat.
- Stir-fried: A classic use. Add sliced peppers to stir-fries with beef, pork, or tofu in the last few minutes of cooking.
- Topping: Chop them and use as a garnish for soups, stews, or noodles. They’re especially good on bibimbap.
- Fermented Gochujang or Paste: You can blend ripe red peppers with glutinous rice, fermented soybean powder, and salt to make your own version of this essential Korean condiment.
- Simple Side Dish: Lightly sauté whole peppers in sesame oil with a splash of soy sauce and a sprinkle of sesame seeds for a quick banchan (Korean side dish).
FAQ Section
How spicy is the Korean long green pepper?
It’s considered a medium-heat chili, typically ranging from 10,000 to 23,000 Scoville Heat Units. That’s hotter than a jalapeño but milder than a standard cayenne. The heat builds slowly and is followed by sweetness.
Can I grow these peppers in a pot?
Absolutely. Choose a pot that is at least 12 inches deep and wide with excellent drainage. Use a high-quality potting mix and be diligent about watering, as pots dry out faster than garden soil. A sunny patio is an ideal spot.
What’s the difference between green and red harvest?
Green peppers are picked earlier. They are slightly less hot and the sweetness is more subtle. Red peppers are fully mature, resulting in higher capsaicin (heat) levels and a much more developed, fruity sweetness. The flavor is deeper.
My plants have flowers but no peppers. What’s wrong?
This is often a pollination issue. If you’re growing indoors or in a very sheltered spot, insects might not be reaching the flowers. You can gently shake the plants when they’re in bloom to help distribute pollen. Also, avoid very high nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leaves over fruit.
How long does it take to get peppers from seed?
From the day you plant the seed, you can expect to wait about 90 to 110 days for your first harvest of mature peppers. This includes the 8-10 week indoor seedling period. Patience is rewarded with a long harvest season.
Growing your own Korean long green peppers is a satisfying project that brings unique flavor to your table. With some basic care and attention to sunlight, water, and warmth, you’ll be able to enjoy a bountiful harvest of these spicy and subtly sweet peppers. Whether you pickle them, fry them, or eat them fresh, the taste of a homegrown pepper is truly superior. Give them a try in your garden this season—you won’t be disappointed by their performance or their flavor.