If your tall succulents are starting to look more like awkward, leaning towers than the compact plants you bought, it’s time for a trim. Learning how to trim tall succulents is a simple process that can restore their beauty and give you new plants to grow. This guide will walk you through every step, from the first cut to caring for your cuttings.
Trimming, often called beheading, is a normal part of succulent care. It helps control their size, encourages a fuller shape, and prevents them from becoming top-heavy and falling over. Don’t worry if you’ve never done it before—succulents are incredibly resilient and designed to handle this.
How to Trim Tall Succulents
This section is your core step-by-step guide. We’ll cover the entire process in a clear, easy-to-follow manner. Having the right tools and setup makes everything go smoother.
What You’ll Need to Get Started
Gathering your supplies before you start is key. You don’t need anything fancy, but using the right tools prevents damage and disease.
- Sharp, Clean Knife or Pruners: Use a sharp knife, razor blade, or fine-pruning shears. A clean cut heals faster than a ragged tear. Sterilize your tool with rubbing alcohol to prevent infection.
- Gloves (Optional): Some succulents have sap that can irritate skin, so gloves are a good idea.
- Paper Towels or a Cloth: For handling cuttings and wiping tools.
- Pots with Drainage Holes: You’ll need a pot for the original stem and new ones for your cuttings.
- Fresh Succulent or Cactus Soil: Well-draining soil is non-negotiable for succulents.
- A Bright, Indirect Light Spot: For your cuttings to callous and root.
Step 1: Identify Where to Cut
Look at your tall succulent. You’ll likely see a long, bare stem with a rosette or leafy growth at the top. Your goal is to remove the top part, leaving a stump that can regrow.
Choose a spot on the stem to cut. Leave about 1 to 2 inches of stem below the lowest leaves of the rosette. This gives you enough stem on the cutting to plant later. Also, make sure you leave at least a few inches of stem and maybe some leaf nodes on the original plant in the pot—this is where new growth will sprout from.
Step 2: Make a Clean, Confident Cut
With your sterilized tool, make a straight, clean cut through the stem in one motion. Don’t saw back and forth. A smooth cut is less stressful for the plant and reduces the risk of rot setting in.
If the stem is very thick, be careful and hold the plant steady. You might want to do this over a clean surface or paper towel. After the cut, you’ll have two pieces: the “beheaded” top rosette and the original stem still in its pot.
Step 3: Let the Cuts Callous Over
This is the most important step that many beginners skip. Do not plant the cutting right away!
Place the top cutting and any other large cuttings in a dry, shaded spot with good air circulation. Let the cut end dry out and form a callous—a dry, sealed layer over the wound. This usually takes 2 to 5 days. Planting a fresh, wet cut directly into soil almost guarantees rot.
Step 4: Prepare for New Growth
While your cuttings are callousing, take care of the original plant. The stump you left in the pot is not done yet. Leave it in its usual sunny spot and water it lightly when the soil is completely dry.
In a few weeks, you should see tiny new rosettes or leaves sprouting from the nodes around the top of the stump. This will give you a bushier, more compact plant. It’s a gratifying sight!
Step 5: Plant Your Calloused Cuttings
Once the cut end is fully dry and calloused, it’s time to plant. Fill a small pot with dry succulent soil. Make a small hole and place the stem of the cutting into it. Gently pat the soil around it for support.
Do not water it yet. The cutting has no roots to absorb water, so moisture will just cause rot. Just leave it in a spot with bright, indirect light for about a week to ten days.
Step 6: The First Water and Ongoing Care
After a week or so, you can give the soil a very light sprinkle of water. The real watering begins once you feel resistance when you give the plant a gentle tug—this means roots have formed.
At this point, you can begin a normal succulent watering routine: soak the soil thoroughly, then let it dry out completely before watering again. Gradually introduce it to more direct sunlight to prevent sunburn.
What About the Leaves on the Bare Stem?
You might have a long stem with leaves still on it. You can carefully pluck these off before or after the beheading. These leaves can be used for propagation too!
Lay the healthy, plump leaves on top of dry soil in indirect light. Mist them very lightly every few days. Eventually, tiny roots and a new baby plant will grow from the base of the leaf. The original leaf will shrivel up as the new plant takes over.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here’s what to watch for.
- The Cutting or Stem is Shriveling: A little shriveling is normal as it uses stored water. If it’s severe, it might need a slight drink. Try misting the soil surface lightly or, if roots are present, give a small water.
- The Cutting or Stem is Mushy and Rotting: This is from too much moisture too soon. If the rot is at the tip, you can cut above the rot, let it callous again, and restart. Ensure your soil drains quickly and you wait long enough before watering.
- No New Growth on the Stump: Be patient. It can take a month or more for new shoots to appear. Ensure it gets enough light and just a bit of water. As long as the stump isn’t mushy, it’s probably still working.
Best Practices for Aftercare
Your succulents success depends on care after the trim. The main keys are light and water.
Provide plenty of bright light to prevent the new growth from becoming stretched out and leggy all over again. A south or east-facing window is ideal. If you’re using grow lights, keep them on for about 12-14 hours a day.
Always err on the side of underwatering. Succulents store water in their leaves and stems, so they can handle drought much better than flood. Stick your finger in the soil—if the top inch or two is bone dry, it’s safe to water.
FAQ: Your Trimming Questions Answered
When is the best time to trim a tall succulent?
The ideal time is during the plant’s active growing season, which is usually spring or early summer. The warmer temperatures and longer days help with faster healing and root growth. Avoid trimming in the dead of winter when growth is dormant.
Can I trim a succulent that’s flowering?
It’s generally better to wait until after the flower stalk has finished blooming. The flowering process takes a lot of the plant’s energy. Trimming it during this time can add extra stress. Enjoy the flowers first, then proceed with your trim.
How short can I cut my succulent?
You can cut it quite short, but always leave at least a few inches of stem with some leaf nodes (the little bumps where leaves were attached) on the original plant. This is where new growth will emerge from. If you cut it all the way down to the soil, it may not regrow.
Why is my succulent tall and leggy in the first place?
This condition is called etiolation. It happens when the plant isn’t getting enough sunlight. It stretches out, reaching for more light, resulting in a long stem with wide spaces between leaves. Trimming fixes the symptom, but providing more light fixes the cause.
How often will I need to trim my succulents?
It depends on the light conditions. In perfect, bright light, some succulents may stay compact for years. In less-than-ideal light, you might need to trim them every year or two to maintain a nice shape. Consider it routine maintenance, like a haircut.
Can I put the cutting in water to root?
While some people have success with water propagation for succulents, soil propagation is generally more reliable and carries a lower risk of rot. The callousing-and-soil method described here works for the vast majority of succulent types and is the most recommended approach.
Trimming your tall succulents might seem daunting at first, but it’s a straightforward and rewarding task. You not only rescue a stretched plant but also multiply your collection. With a clean cut, a little patience for callousing, and proper aftercare, both your original plant and your new cuttings will thrive. Remember, the most common mistake is being too eager with water—when in doubt, wait it out. Your succulents will thank you with healthy, compact growth for seasons to come.