How To Transplant Wandering Jew Cuttings

Want more of those beautiful, trailing vines in your home? Learning how to transplant wandering jew cuttings is the easiest and fastest way to multiply your plants. This simple step-by-step guide will show you exactly how to do it successfully, even if you’re new to gardening.

Wandering Jew plants, known botanically as Tradescantia, are incredibly forgiving. They root quickly in water or soil, making them perfect for beginners. With just a few snips, you can create full, lush pots to keep or share with friends.

Let’s get started with everything you need to know.

This section covers the core method. The process is straightforward, but paying attention to a few key details will ensure your new plants thrive from the very start.

What You’ll Need

Gathering your supplies before you begin makes the whole process smoother. You likely have most of these items already.

Healthy Wandering Jew plant
Clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears
Small pots or containers with drainage holes
Fresh, well-draining potting mix
Watering can
Optional: Rooting hormone (can speed up root development)
Optional: Clear glass or jar if rooting in water first

Step 1: Taking the Perfect Cutting

The first step is choosing and cutting the right stem. A good cutting is the foundation of a strong new plant.

Look for a healthy, vigorous stem on your mother plant. Avoid any stems that look weak or discolored.
Identify a “node.” This is the bump on the stem where leaves and roots grow from. You’ll see one at each joint.
Using your clean shears, cut a piece that’s 3 to 6 inches long. Make sure your cutting has at least one or two nodes on it. The node is where the roots will emerge.
Gently pinch off the leaves from the bottom node or two. This bare section will go under the soil or water.

Step 2: Rooting Your Cuttings (Two Easy Methods)

You have two excellent options for rooting. Both work very well, so choose the one you prefer.

Method A: Rooting in Water

This method is popular because you can watch the roots grow. It’s simple and satisfying.

Place your prepared cuttings in a glass or jar of room-temperature water. Submerge only the leafless nodes.
Keep the leaves above the water line to prevent rot.
Put the glass in a spot with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can overheat the water.
Change the water every few days to keep it fresh and oxygenated.
In about 1-2 weeks, you should see white roots sprouting from the nodes. Wait until the roots are an inch or two long before transplanting to soil.

Method B: Rooting Directly in Soil

This skips a step and can be less shocking to the plant, as it doesn’t need to adjust from water roots to soil roots.

Fill your small pot with moist potting mix. Lightly press the soil to remove large air pockets.
If using, dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone powder, tapping off the excess.
Make a small hole in the soil with your finger or a pencil. Insert the cutting, ensuring the bare nodes are buried.
Gently firm the soil around the stem so it stands upright.
Water the soil lightly to settle it around the cutting.

Step 3: The Transplanting Process

If you rooted in water, this step is for you. If you went straight to soil, your transplanting is already done!

Prepare your final pot with fresh, well-draining soil. Make a hole in the center ready for the rooted cutting.
Carefully remove the cutting from the water. Be gentle with the new, fragile roots.
Place the rooted cutting into the hole in the soil. Spread the roots out slightly if you can.
Backfill with soil, covering the roots completely. Gently press the soil to secure the plant.
Water thoroughly after planting. This helps the soil settle and makes good contact with the roots.

Step 4: Aftercare for Success

Proper care in the first few weeks helps your new plant establish quickly. The key is consistency.

Light: Provide bright, indirect light. Direct afternoon sun can scorch the leaves, while too little light will make growth leggy.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy for the first couple weeks. Then, you can let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.
Humidity: These plants appreciate some humidity. Misting occasionally or placing the pot on a tray of pebbles with water can help, especially in dry homes.
Pinching: Once your plant has several inches of new growth, pinch off the very tip of a stem. This encourages it to branch out, leading to a fuller, bushier plant.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here’s how to fix common problems.

Cuttings Are Wilting or Rotting

Wilting right after planting is normal, but it should pass. If it persists or stems get mushy, it’s often a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Ensure your pot has a drainage hole and your soil mix drains quickly. For cuttings in water, rot means the leaves were submerged or the water wasn’t changed often enough.

Roots Are Taking Too Long to Grow

Patience is key, but if it’s been weeks with no roots, check the light and temperature. Cuttings root best in warm conditions (65-75°F) with good light. Also, ensure you took the cutting from a healthy part of the plant and that a node is in the water or soil.

New Growth Is Leggy or Pale

This is a classic sign of insufficient light. Move your plant to a brighter location with indirect sunlight. The leaves should show vibrant color and the stems will grow more compact.

Pro Tips for a Lush Plant

To go from a single cutting to a dense, overflowing pot, try these advanced techniques.

Plant multiple cuttings in one pot. For a 6-inch pot, start with 5-7 cuttings around the edges. They will fill in the center as they grow.
Regularly pinch back the longest stems. This not only makes the plant bushier but also provides you with more cuttings to propagate.
Feed your established plant with a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer growing season. Don’t fertilize newly transplanted cuttings until they show significant new growth.
Rotate your pot every week or so. This ensures all sides get even light and prevents the plant from leaning heavily toward the window.

FAQ: Your Questions Answered

Can you put wandering jew cuttings directly into soil?

Yes, absolutely. You can put wandering jew cuttings directly into moist soil. This method often results in a stronger root system adapted to soil from the start. Just keep the soil consistently moist for the first two weeks.

How long do wandering jew cuttings take to root in water?

Wandering jew cuttings typically start showing roots in water within 7 to 14 days. The time can vary based on the temperature and light available. Transplant them to soil once the roots are about 1-2 inches long for the best results.

What is the best way to propagate a wandering jew?

The best way to propagate a wandering jew is through stem cuttings, either in water or soil. Both methods have a very high success rate. Taking cuttings just below a node and providing bright, indirect light are the most important factors for success.

Do you need rooting hormone for wandering jew?

No, you do not need rooting hormone for wandering jew. These plants root very readily on their own. However, using a rooting hormone can potentially speed up the root development process, especially if your conditions are less than ideal or your cutting material is a bit weak.

Why are my propagated cuttings dying?

If your propagated cuttings are dying, the most common culprits are overwatering (leading to rot), underwatering (leading to dry-out), or insufficient light. Check that the soil is moist but not wet, and ensure the plant is in a bright spot. Also, make sure your original cutting was healthy and had at least one node included.