If your tulips have finished their spring show, you might be wondering how to transplant tulips after they bloom. Moving them at the right time is key to seeing them return healthy next year. This simple guide walks you through the entire process, from knowing when to dig to getting them settled in their new home.
Transplanting, or moving, your tulips allows you to fix crowded clumps, redesign your garden, or simply save bulbs from a spot where they won’t thrive. Done correctly, it gives the bulbs plenty of time to store energy for the next blooming cycle. Let’s get started.
How To Transplant Tulips After They Bloom
This section covers the core principles. Timing and technique are everything when you move tulip bulbs. Rushing the process or handling the bulbs roughly can lead to disappointment.
Why Timing is Everything
Tulips rely on their foliage after blooming. The leaves soak up sunlight and create food that’s stored in the bulb for next year’s flower. If you cut the leaves off too early or move the bulb while it’s still actively growing, you weaken it.
The perfect window is after the petals have fallen but while the leaves are still mostly green. The foliage will have started to yellow and wilt at the tips. This signals the bulb is beginning to go dormant. In most climates, this is typically 4 to 6 weeks after blooming ends.
What You’ll Need
- A garden fork or spade
- Gardening gloves
- A basket or tray
- Twine or rubber bands
- Paper bags or cardboard boxes
- Compost or bulb fertilizer
Step-by-Step Transplanting Process
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Site
Always dig the new holes before you lift the bulbs. Tulip bulbs dislike drying out, so you want to get them back in the ground quickly. Choose a spot with well-draining soil and full sun to partial shade.
Loosen the soil about 12 inches deep. Mix in a few inches of compost or a balanced, slow-release bulb fertilizer. This gives them a nutrient boost right away.
Step 2: Carefully Dig Up the Bulbs
Insert your garden fork into the soil about 6 inches away from the tulip stems. Gently lever the fork back to lift the soil and bulbs. Try to avoid piercing or slicing through any bulbs.
Shake off the excess soil clumps. You’ll see the mother bulb with smaller offsets (baby bulbs) attached. Gently separate any that come apart easily, but don’t force them.
Step 3: Cure and Store the Bulbs (If Not Planting Immediately)
If you can’t replant right away, you need to cure them. Don’t just toss them in a plastic bag—they’ll rot.
- Leave the foliage attached. Gather the stems of each clump and loosely tie them together.
- Hang the bundles or place them in a single layer in a cardboard box.
- Store in a cool, dry, and dark place with good air circulation for about 1-2 weeks.
- After the foliage is completely brown and crispy, you can trim it off.
Keep the bare bulbs in a mesh or paper bag in a cool, dark place until fall planting time. Check on them occasionally for mold.
Step 4: Replant the Bulbs at the Proper Depth
This is a common mistake. Plant tulip bulbs at a depth equal to three times their height. For most standard tulips, this means about 6 to 8 inches deep.
Place the bulb in the hole with the pointy end facing up. The flat, sometimes slightly hairy, end is the root base. Space bulbs about 4 to 6 inches apart so they have room to multiply.
Backfill the hole with soil and gently firm it down to remove air pockets. Give the area a thorough watering to help settle the soil around the bulbs.
Caring for Transplanted Tulips
After replanting, continue to water the area if the weather is dry for the next few weeks. This encourages some root growth before full summer dormancy. Do not water during the summer if the bulbs are dormant in the ground.
Apply a light layer of mulch, like shredded bark or straw, to help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Mark the location with a label or small stake so you don’t accidentally dig there later.
In the fall, when you’re planting other bulbs, give the area a light feeding with bulb fertilizer. Then, wait for their triumphant return in spring!
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Sometimes, things don’t go as planned. Here’s what to watch for.
Bulbs That Don’t Bloom After Transplant
This is often called “blindness.” The main causes are planting too shallow, cutting foliage too early the previous year, or bulbs being too young (offsets). It can also happen if the new site is too shady or the soil is very poor. Give them another full cycle; they often recover.
Signs of Rot or Disease
Before storing or replanting, inspect each bulb. Discard any that are soft, mushy, have black lesions, or show signs of mold. A healthy tulip bulb is firm and has a papery tunic, like an onion skin. Never plant a suspect bulb—it can infect others.
Dealing with Pests
Squirrels and voles love tulip bulbs. If these are a problem in your garden, consider laying chicken wire over the planted area before backfilling, or use a wire mesh cage. You can also try planting the bulbs in groups surrounded by less-tasty bulbs like daffodils.
FAQ: Your Transplant Questions Answered
Can I transplant tulips in the spring right after they bloom?
Yes, but only if you do it while the foliage is still green. This is often called “transplanting in the green.” It’s better than moving them when you can’t find the bulbs in fall, but the ideal time is as the foliage starts to fade.
What if I need to move them during fall instead?
Fall is the traditional planting time for new bulbs. If you need to move established ones in fall, try to do it as early as possible once the soil has cooled. The bulbs need to establish roots before the ground freezes solid.
How long can I store tulip bulbs before planting?
If cured and stored properly (cool, dry, dark), you can store them for several months until the fall planting season. Don’t try to store them for more than one full off-season, as they will lose vitality.
Should I divide the bulbs when I transplant?
It’s a good idea to gently separate any loose offsets. Replant the large, firm mother bulbs for best blooms next year. You can also plant the smaller offsets in a nursery bed; they will take 2-3 years to reach flowering size, but it’s a great way to propagate your tulips.
Can I transplant tulips to pots?
Absolutely. Use a deep pot with excellent drainage. Plant at the same depth and follow the same steps. Pots dry out faster, so ensure consistent moisture in the weeks after planting. You’ll need to provide winter protection, as potted bulbs freeze more easily than in-ground ones.
Transplanting tulips is a straightforward task that pays off beautifully. By following these simple steps and paying attention to timing, you can successfully move your tulips to enjoy their color for many springs to come. Remember, the plants reward patience and good care with vibrant blooms.