How To Transplant Trumpet Vine

If your trumpet vine has outgrown its space or you simply want to share it, knowing how to transplant trumpet vine is a key skill. This guide walks you through the simple steps to move this vigorous plant successfully, ensuring it thrives in its new location.

Trumpet vine, also known as Campsis radicans, is a tough, fast-growing climber. While it’s resilient, a careful transplant reduces shock and gets it established faster. The best times to move it are in late fall after it goes dormant or in early spring before new growth starts.

This main process covers moving an established vine. You’ll need a few tools: a sharp shovel, pruning shears, a tarp or wheelbarrow, and plenty of water. Always wear gloves, as the sap can irritate some people’s skin.

Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole

Always dig the new hole first. This minimizes the time the roots are exposed to air.

Choose a site with full sun (6+ hours daily) and well-draining soil.
The hole should be twice as wide as the rootball you expect to dig up, and just as deep.
Mix the excavated soil with some compost to improve nutrients and drainage.

Step 2: Prune the Vine Back Heavily

This is crucial. Transplanting damages the root system, and the reduced roots cannot support all the existing top growth.

Using clean shears, cut the vine back to about 12-24 inches from the ground.
This feels drastic, but it directs the plant’s energy to root re-establishment.
You can save these cuttings to propagate new plants if you wish.

Step 3: Dig Up the Rootball Carefully

Trumpet vines have extensive, tough roots. Start digging a circle about 18-24 inches from the main stem.

Push your shovel straight down to slice through roots, working your way around.
Once you’ve circled, begin angling your shovel underneath the plant.
Lever the rootball up gently. You may need to sever a stubborn taproot.

Lift the rootball onto the tarp or into your wheelbarrow for transport. Try to keep as much soil intact as possible.

Step 4: Plant at the Correct Depth

Place the rootball in the center of your prepared hole. The top of the rootball should be level with the surrounding soil surface.

Never plant it deeper than it was originally growing.
Backfill the hole with your soil-compost mix, firming it gently as you go to remove air pockets.

Step 5: Water and Mulch Thoroughly

Create a small soil berm around the planting hole to form a water basin. Soak the area deeply immediately after planting.

Apply 2-3 inches of mulch (like wood chips) around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the stem itself.
Mulch conserves moisture and regulates soil temperature.

Step 6: Provide Initial Support and Care

Even though it’s pruned back, attach the remaining stems to a trellis, fence, or arbor to guide its new growth. Water it deeply 2-3 times per week for the first month, unless rainfall is plentiful. Avoid fertilizing in the first year; let it focus on roots.

When to Expect New Growth

Don’t panic if growth seems slow initially. The plant is busy underground. You should see new shoots within a few weeks in spring, or by the next growing season if transplanted in fall. Be patient, as it might take a full year to show it’s vigorous self again.

Transplanting a Young Trumpet Vine

Moving a younger vine (1-2 years old) is much simpler. The root system is smaller and easier to manage.

Follow the same timing (dormant season).
Prune it back by about one-third to one-half.
Dig a wider circle relative to it’s size, as roots are less established.
Plant and water using the same method above. Recovery is often quicker.

Common Transplanting Mistakes to Avoid

Steering clear of these errors boosts your success rate dramatically.

Transplanting in Summer: Heat and active growth cause severe stress. The vine may wilt and die.
Insufficient Pruning: Leaving too much growth is the top reason for transplant failure. The roots can’t keep up.
Poor Planting Depth: Burying the crown (where stem meets roots) can lead to rot.
Over-fertilizing: This pushes leaf growth at the expense of the crucial root development.

Aftercare for Your Transplanted Vine

Once new growth is apparent, you can relax the watering schedule to weekly during dry spells. Continue to train the new shoots onto your support structure. Light feeding can begin in the second spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.

FAQ: Transplanting Trumpet Vine

Can I transplant a large, mature trumpet vine?
You can, but it’s very labor-intensive. The root system is massive. For vines older than 5 years, consider taking cuttings or digging up a smaller rooted sucker from the edge of the plant instead of moving the main crown.

What is the best time of year for transplanting trumpet creeper?
Dormancy is key. Late fall (after leaf drop) or very early spring (before buds swell) are the absolute best times. The plant is not actively growing, which minimizes shock.

My transplanted vine looks dead. Is it?
Before giving up, scratch a small piece of bark on a stem near the base. If you see green underneath, the plant is still alive. It may just be taking longer to redirect it’s energy. Keep the soil lightly moist and wait until late spring or even early summer to be sure.

How do you move a trumpet vine without it spreading?
Trumpet vines spread by runners. When digging, be thorough and remove as much of the root system from the old location as possible. Monitor the old site for new suckers for a year or two, removing them promptly.

Can I transplant trumpet vine in the spring?
Yes, early spring is an excellent time, just as the ground becomes workable but before significant new growth begins. The advantage over fall is that the plant immediately enters a growth cycle.

Transplanting a trumpet vine requires some effort, but it’s very straightforward when you follow the steps. The key takeaways are to prune hard, dig carefully, and be patient. With proper placement and care, your transplanted vine will soon be covering its new support with those beautiful, hummingbird-attracting blooms for years to come.