Moving a tree is a big task, but doing it right gives it a great chance to thrive in its new home. This step-by-step guide for how to transplant trees will walk you through the entire process, from planning to aftercare. Whether you’re moving a young sapling or a more established tree, the key principles are the same. Careful timing and proper technique make all the difference.
Transplanting a tree is stressful for the plant. Your goal is to minimize that shock by protecting the root system and getting the tree settled quickly. With some preparation and the right tools, you can successfully relocate a tree and enjoy it for many years to come. Let’s get started with the most important first step: timing.
How To Transplant Trees
The core process of transplanting involves preparing the new hole, digging up the tree with a good root ball, moving it safely, and planting it correctly. Rushing any step can lead to failure, so patience is essential. This section outlines the main stages you’ll follow.
When is the Best Time to Transplant a Tree?
Timing is the most critical factor for success. The ideal period is when the tree is dormant. This means it’s not actively growing new leaves or stems.
For most deciduous trees (those that lose leaves), this is in late fall after leaves drop or in early spring before buds swell. Evergreens are best moved in early fall or late spring. Avoid transplanting during the heat of summer or the frozen ground of deep winter. The cooler temperatures and natural moisture of spring and fall help roots establish without the stress of extreme weather.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Gathering everything beforehand makes the job smoother. Here’s a basic list:
* A sharp spade and/or a round-point shovel
* A tarp or burlap for wrapping the root ball
* Twine or rope
* A sturdy wagon, dolly, or piece of plywood for moving
* A garden hose and water source
* Organic compost or peat moss
* Mulch (wood chips or shredded bark)
* Pruning shears (for any damaged roots or branches)
* A measuring tape
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole First
Always dig the new hole before you dig up the tree. This limits the time the roots are exposed. The new hole should be two to three times wider than the tree’s expected root ball, but only as deep as the root ball’s height. This is crucial. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can suffocate roots.
The sides of the hole should be rough, not slick from the shovel. Break up the soil at the bottom and mix some compost with the native soil you removed. Have this amended soil and a pile of water ready nearby.
Step 2: Dig Up the Tree (Creating the Root Ball)
Start by watering the tree deeply a day or two before digging. This hydrates the tree and helps the soil hold together. Then, estimate the size of the root ball. A general rule is 10-12 inches of ball diameter for every inch of the tree’s trunk diameter.
1. Using your shovel, cut a circle in the soil around the tree at this distance. This severs long roots cleanly.
2. Begin digging a trench outside this circle, working your way down and under the root ball.
3. Angle your shovel inward as you go deeper to undercut the roots and form a ball.
4. Once you’ve dug deep enough around the entire circle, carefully undercut the center to free the root ball.
Step 3: Safely Move the Tree
This is where you need to be careful to keep the root ball intact. Gently slide the tarp or burlap under the root ball. You may need to tip the tree slightly. Pull the material up around the ball and secure it with twine to hold the soil and roots together.
Drag or lift the tree onto your wagon, dolly, or plywood. Never lift a tree by its trunk; always support the root ball. Move it to the new location as quickly and gently as possible. If you must delay planting, keep the root ball moist and in the shade.
Step 4: Plant the Tree in Its New Home
Carefully lower the tree into the new hole, making sure it’s standing straight. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding ground. Remove any burlap or twine from around the root ball itself.
Backfill the hole with the soil-compost mix, tamping it down gently with your foot as you go to remove large air pockets. Stop halfway to water thoroughly, letting the water settle the soil. Then continue backfilling. Create a shallow berm or basin of soil around the edge of the hole to hold water.
Step 5: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
Water the tree deeply immediately after planting. This settles the soil further and provides essential moisture. Then, apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch over the entire root zone (the area of the wide hole).
Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk itself to prevent rot. Mulch is vital—it conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, and reduces weed competition.
Step 6: Essential Aftercare for Success
The first year, especially the first few months, are critical. Your tree will need consistent watering. It’s better to water deeply and less frequently than to give it small daily sips. The goal is to keep the root ball moist but not soggy.
Check the soil weekly. If the top few inches are dry, it’s time to water. Continue this attentive care for at least the first full growing season. Avoid fertilizing in the first year, as this can stress the roots. Just let the tree focus on establishing itself.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
* Planting too deep: This is the number one cause of transplant failure. The root flare (where trunk widens at base) should be visible.
* Making the hole too narrow: A wide hole encourages roots to expand into native soil.
* Underwatering or overwatering: Both are detrimental. Consistent, deep watering is key.
* Ignoring the tree after planting: Vigilant aftercare is non-negotiable for survival.
* Moving a tree that’s too big: Consider a professional for trees with trunks over 2-3 inches in diameter.
FAQ: Your Tree Transplanting Questions Answered
Can you transplant a tree in the summer?
It is not recommended. The heat and increased water needs make summer the most stressful time. If you must, take extreme care with watering and shade, and expect significant shock.
How big of a tree can you transplant yourself?
For a DIYer, a tree with a trunk diameter of 1-2 inches is very manageable. Trees 2-3 inches thick are a major project. Anything larger typically requires professional machinery like a tree spade.
How long does it take for a transplanted tree to recover?
It can take a tree one full growing season per inch of trunk diameter to fully recover from transplant shock and establish a strong new root system. Patience is required.
Should you prune a tree after transplanting?
Only prune broken or damaged branches at the time of planting. Major shaping should wait until the tree has recovered, usually after a year or two. You want to leave as many leaves as possible to support root growth.
Why is my transplanted tree not leafing out?
Delayed leafing out is common due to shock. Keep up with your watering schedule. As long as the branches are flexible and not brittle, there’s a good chance it will recover. Scratch a small piece of bark; if you see green underneath, the tree is still alive.
Transplanting a tree is a rewarding project that saves a plant and enhances your landscape. By following this step-by-step guide for how to transplant trees, you give your tree the best possible foundation. Remember the golden rules: transplant when dormant, dig a wide hole, keep the root ball intact, plant at the right depth, water consistently, and mulch. With some effort and attentive care, your moved tree will grow strong and healthy for many years.