If you’re wondering how to transplant myrtle, you’ve come to the right place. Moving a myrtle, whether it’s a crape myrtle tree or a creeping myrtle groundcover, is a straightforward task with the right timing and technique. This guide will walk you through every step to ensure your plant thrives in its new location.
Transplanting can give a plant a fresh start or solve a landscaping problem. Myrtles are generally resilient, but careful handling is key. Let’s get your myrtle moved successfully.
How To Transplant Myrtle
This main section covers the core process. Success starts long before you actually dig. Preparation is everything, from choosing the right day to having your tools ready.
When is the Best Time to Transplant Myrtle?
The timing is crucial for reducing stress on the plant. The ideal window is during dormancy, when the plant isn’t actively growing.
- For Deciduous Myrtles (like Crape Myrtle): Late fall, after leaves drop, or early spring before buds break. The cool temperatures and moist soil help roots establish.
- For Evergreen Myrtles (like Creeping Myrtle/Vinca): Early fall or early spring. Avoid the heat of summer, which can dry out the roots to quickly.
What You’ll Need: Tools & Materials
Gathering your supplies beforehand makes the job smooth. Here’s your checklist:
- Sharp spade and/or shovel
- Garden fork
- Burlap or a tarp for moving the rootball
- Pruning shears (clean and sharp)
- Measuring tape
- Hose and water source
- Organic compost or peat moss
- Mulch (like pine bark or wood chips)
Step-by-Step Transplanting Instructions
Follow these steps in order for the best outcome. Don’t rush the digging stage.
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole first. This minimizes the time the roots are exposed. The hole should be two to three times wider than the expected rootball, but only as deep as the rootball’s height. This prevents settling. Mix the excavated soil with about 25% compost to improve drainage and nutrients.
Step 2: Prune and Water the Myrtle
A day before transplanting, give the myrtle a deep watering. This hydrates the roots and helps the soil hold together. For larger crape myrtles, you can do a light pruning to remove any dead or excessively long branches. This balances the top growth with the root loss that will occur.
Step 3: Dig Up the Rootball
Start digging a trench around the plant, about 12-18 inches from the trunk for smaller plants, and further for larger trees. Your goal is to preserve as much of the root system as possible. Work your way around, cutting through roots cleanly with your spade. Once the sides are free, angle your shovel underneath to sever any taproots. Be patient here.
Step 4: Lift and Move the Plant
Carefully slide the burlap or tarp under the rootball. Gently lift the plant from the hole, supporting the rootball—never lift by the trunk. Drag or carry it on the tarp to the new hole. Keeping the rootball intact is a major key to success.
Step 5: Plant in the New Location
Place the myrtle in the center of the new hole. The top of the rootball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding ground. Backfill with your soil-compost mix, tamping gently as you go to remove air pockets. Create a small soil berm around the edge to form a watering basin.
Step 6: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
Immediately after planting, water deeply until the soil is saturated. This settles the soil around the roots. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch conserves moisture and regulates soil temperature.
Aftercare: Ensuring a Smooth Recovery
Your job isn’t done after planting. Consistent aftercare is what gets your myrtle growing again.
- Watering: This is critical. Water deeply 2-3 times per week for the first month, unless rainfall is abundant. Then, gradually reduce frequency over the next few months. The soil should be moist, not soggy.
- Hold Off on Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time or during the first growing season. Fertilizer can harm tender new roots. Let the plant focus on root establishment.
- Monitor for Stress: Some leaf wilting or drop is normal. For crape myrtles, don’t be alarmed if leaf-out is delayed in spring. Just maintain your watering schedule.
- Staking (if needed): Only stake larger trees if they are unstable. Use loose, flexible ties and remove them after one year.
Common Problems and Troubleshooting
Even with care, sometimes issues arise. Here’s how to adress them.
- Transplant Shock (Severe Wilting): This is often due to underwatering or root damage. Ensure deep, consistent watering. Provide temporary afternoon shade if possible.
- Poor Drainage in New Hole: If water pools, the plant may drown. You might need to carefully relocate it again or amend the soil more aggressively with sand or grit.
- Slow Growth: Be patient. The first year is for root recovery. Top growth often resumes robustly in the second season.
FAQ: Your Myrtle Transplant Questions Answered
Can I transplant a large, mature crape myrtle?
Yes, but it’s a significant undertaking. The rootball will be very heavy. For trees over 6-8 feet tall, consider hiring a professional with a tree spade. The recovery time will also be longer.
How do I transplant creeping myrtle (Vinca minor)?
The process is simpler. Dig up plugs or sections of the mat, ensuring they have roots. Replant them immediately in prepared soil, water well, and they will quickly spread and fill in.
What’s the biggest mistake people make when transplanting myrtle?
The most common error is planting too deep. Burying the trunk flare can lead to rot and girdling roots. Always keep the top of the rootball level with the ground.
Is it better to transplant in fall or spring?
For deciduous types, fall is often prefered because the soil is warm, encouraging root growth, and top-watering demands are lower. In very cold climates, early spring might be safer to avoid frost-heave on new plantings.
How long before I see new growth?
For a spring transplant, you may see new leaves in a few weeks. For a fall transplant, you won’t see above-ground growth until the following spring. Root growth happens silently beneath the soil all the while.
Transplanting your myrtle doesn’t have to be a stressful event—for you or the plant. By following this simple step-by-step guide, focusing on timing, careful digging, and dedicated aftercare, you give your myrtle the absolute best chance to flourish in its new spot. With a little patience, you’ll soon see it thriving and adding beauty to your garden for years to come.